5 Essential Ties to Build Your Wardrobe (Buy These First!)

In the 21st century, neckties are being worn less than they used to, and this is due to several reasons, but we think that they belong to a classic style wardrobe. Here are five essential ties to include in your collection!

As previously discussed, society has been undergoing a casualization that has been going on for the last few decades. This means that neckties are simply less common. Therefore, they may feel more alien to those more accustomed to casual clothing. Not only that, but as the world has changed throughout the COVID-19 pandemic, attitudes toward office attire have shifted as well.

As so, many of us have experienced a change in working environment. Companies are considering it’s not important what you wear to work, but what your attitude is towards work; whereas people previously would use accessories like ties to express individuality, taste, or even wallet size.

Different accessories are now regarded as “authority items.” Sometimes, this can be seen in the sneaker world. As more people wear them, there’s a huge increase in people’s interest about different styles and models – similar to how Patrick Bateman and friends would discuss the intricacies of their suits in the 80s.

A tie is still considered traditional, though. It is still a requested element within certain dress codes. After all, no one wants to be carted out of an establishment for wearing the wrong neckwear. 

With the tie taking very little space in your closet and requiring a low level of maintenance, it’s still an accessory worth investing a little thought and getting right. We’ve previously outlined 12 different ties to collect and enjoy but, today, it’s all about achieving a similar level of versatility with fewer pieces of neckwear.

So, we’ve got the five ties that will be the most timeless foundation to your collection. As a general note, we’ve curated this capsule selection with everyone in mind. Naturally, we can help you out with all of today’s ties and the Fort Belvedere shop. But, with a keen eye and perhaps our secret shopping method, you should be able to achieve this capsule selection at any price point.

Why Wear A Tie?

Before we dive into our list, let me address something that I’m sure at least one or two of you have already thought of. In today’s world, why should you wear a tie? And we hear you. Fashion changes with time, and it may seem like the relevance of the tie has diminished in recent years, but we can think of two solid reasons why the necktie remains an important piece of clothing.

In a nutshell, wearing a necktie makes you look like you mean business and that you take yourself and others seriously. Just think of all the occasions that traditionally require a tie. There are job interviews, weddings, funerals, board meetings, family celebrations, and religious ceremonies.

Honestly, if you start to think about it there are many scenarios in which putting on a necktie not only elevates your outfit, but also what others think of you. Ultimately, choosing to wear a necktie will likely earn you respect because you’re showing others respect when you wear one. 

The second reason to wear a tie is choice. If you also enjoy the world of classic style, a necktie represents the ability to show others who you are; whether that’s through the nuance of your tie knot, how you’ve paired with the other elements of your outfit, or because it ties into a signature part of your style. 

The necktie represents your sartorial understanding and individuality in one beautifully simple garment. The reality is you don’t need to own a collection that rivals Raphael’s in order to enjoy wearing neckties. Much like a fine whiskey or an exquisite timepiece, it’s about indulging in something that makes you feel unique and empowered.

Essential Ties: Capsule Tie #1: Knit/Casual Tie

We’re starting things off with something that might come off like a bit of an oxymoron, but it is possible for a necktie to be casual. And in our estimation, there’s no time more suited for this role than the knitted tie.

Originally, this item of network was more of a countryside outfit accessory or a way for men of lesser means to be able to dress up without spending a lot of money on silk ties. Nowadays, the knit tie has evolved to become just as refined and coveted as other luxurious accessories, and this tie can be crafted out of anything from synthetic fibers to wool to silk threads.

The unique texture of a knit tie makes it an excellent way to match the formality of a more casual and soft outfit like sweaters and slacks, or utilize a knit to relax a more dressed-up outfit. The creation of interesting tie knots will give an elegant look to both your tie and your ensemble as a whole.

As an added bonus, knit ties are delightfully easy to pack for travel. Unlike other ties, knit ties rarely get crushed in transit, meaning you won’t arrive to find your ties and put through some kind of bad origami. This wrinkle-free nature also means that it’s very easy to keep a tie handy in a bag or in a briefcase as you never know when you’re going to need one.

Ties in muted colors like black or navy can look quite sophisticated, but we have a better use for those darker tones coming up next. Instead, look toward other classic menswear shades like green or brown. Although these are both typically seen as underrated menswear colors, you may struggle to find substitutes that work as well across the spectrum of blue and gray that we see in today’s suiting options.

Alternative colors, such as warm tones of orange, rust, and red can be a fun way to inject brighter elements into your outfit, with the overall casual nature of knit ties making them the perfect candidate to experiment with something bolder.

Whatever color you choose, you can consider this first option as the ideal necktie of the 21st century. It’s dressed up without being too stuffy.

Capsule Tie #2: Navy Grenadine

Up next is an iconic tie choice that should appear on any well-dressed person’s list: a navy grenadine tie. Preston has dedicated a separate guide to the nuances of grenadine ties.

The reason this piece has stood the test of time is due to the careful balance of elements that go into the makeup of a navy grenadine tie. Maybe it’s not as dark and somber as black, but also not as bright as other blue tones, which means that a true deep navy can be worn appropriately across multiple functions and a grenadine weave provides a unique texture, adding some variety and intrigue to an outfit without being too flashy or distracting. All this makes the navy grenadine tie a perfect level of formality to most outfits that require a necktie.

So, in order to get things right, there are a couple of things to look out for. First, you want to make sure that you get a grenadine weave that works for you, then you want to ensure that you get the color spot on.

Grenadine typically comes in two weave densities: garza grossa or a large weave grenadine, where the knotted silk threads show the character of the weave; or garza fina, which means small or fine weave grenadine, in which the reduced density creates a subtly elegant look. How much character you want to showcase in your grenadine ties is honestly a matter of personal choice, but a larger wave will always be slightly more casual than a finer weave, which, of course, is something to keep in mind.

When it comes to color, you want to aim for a true navy, which is somewhere closer to black than blue. It’s also important to clarify that the term “navy” is also being misused by many retailers.

For example, this suit is listed as “navy,” but is actually closer to royal blue. Therefore, a true navy grenadine tie is going to have an overall darker appearance with the subtle undertones of blue coming through as light hits the weave of the tie.

Needless to say, the navy grenadine tie is a classic choice that goes with just about anything. To many, just as the white pocket square was the first to adorn their breast pocket, the navy grenadine tie is the first to decorate their collar, and we couldn’t agree more.

Capsule Tie #3: Micro-pattern

Following on from the navy grenadine, let’s add some pattern and color to our next choice with a tastefully patterned tie. This can be anything from a pin or a polka dot, a Macclesfield neat, checks, or houndstooth, or even a paisley design.

As this gives us quite a lot of options to choose from, let’s start thinking about some criteria that’ll help us avoid decision fatigue.

The key here is to keep the overall pattern small enough in scale to be discreet. This way, you won’t have to worry about choosing other elements of your outfit having to match a larger tie pattern, nor will you accidentally overdress by applying a necktie that is bolder than others might be prepared for. I suppose that giant paisley is a little 1970s.

Instead, look toward pleasing geometric shapes – such as tiles, squares, and diamonds. Perhaps the most well-known is the Macclesfield neat pattern – a simple design of small motifs that repeat in an elegant diagonal fashion. This design works so well because it allows you to see the base color of the tie without the additional decoration eclipsing it.

This is the same principle for other geometric patterns like tile or dot patterns, the latter of which you can find out more about in our other guide.

To go for something a little different, you could also choose paisley, known for their organic teardrop shape. The paisley pattern usually invites a loose irregularity in how it applies to a necktie, but it’s entirely possible to find a paisley with a bit more neatness in its design. Whether you prefer a louder or quieter paisley design is coming down to personal preference.

The one thing that any patterned tie will have in common is the ability to inject multiple colors into an outfit. Effectively, having a patterned tie in your collection is an easy way to always have a visually-interesting outfit. This is great if you aren’t yet confident in color matching because the colors present in your tie will be your key to creating powerful combinations.

Take the Macclesfield neat pattern as an example. The base is a deep bottle green, and the pattern includes cool blue and warm orange. That gives you three colors to pick up and play with in your accessories. You could go for blue-tone socks, pick up the green in your cufflinks, and add a rich orange pocket square to your outfit, and everything looks elevated and harmonious.

However you choose to add a  patterned tie into your essential tie collection, it will soften your outfit nicely and add a touch of personality to help you incorporate several colors all at once. 

Capsule Tie #4: Repp Stripe

Keeping with the theme of color, we come to essential tie number four: the repp stripe tie. Stripe ties have been menswear classics for decades and have often been used for club ties to represent membership to a group, club, or society; with some famous examples from the silver screen like the Hogwarts School ties and the neckwear issued to Kingsman agents.

A fun fact about repp ties: The stripe is historically pointed in one direction or the other, all depending on whether it was English or American. English-striped ties would slope from the wearer’s left shoulder to the right hip, and American striped ties would mirror this direction.

Even though it doesn’t really make any difference nowadays, it’s still interesting, right? Just really hoping they’re putting that fact into Trivial Pursuit one day.

Stripe direction to one side, it’s worth noting that there are different types of stripes within menswear as a whole, but also with a necktie stripe classification. Repp stripe is known for using at least two colors throughout the tie; simpler examples will showcase at least one color for the body of the tie and the second color for the stripe itself. And other rep stripe patterns will include additional colors, too.

Another characteristic element that’s seen in repp ties is seen in a variety of the stripes themselves, whether that’s a mixture of narrow stripes broken up by wider stripes or several narrow stripes were grouped together by regular intervals. Classic repp ties tend to be finished in a plain or classic silk weave, as these allow for a crisp, solid definition to the stripe detailing.

But, for more interesting and sartorial take on things, you can add another dimension to your repp tie through texture, such as grenadine, as we’ve previously discussed, or shantung silk, which has a gorgeous, characteristically natural feel to it due to the presence of silk slabs left from the silk-making process.

Choosing a repp stripe in either an unusual texture or bolder color will separate it from a repp tie that looks like an organization’s tie; therefore, making it your own as you wear it.

Overall, a repp tie is a great way to incorporate a different angle into your outfit. The regimental nature of a repp stripe will provide an air of business-like authority to your outfit, which is always a good thing in our books.

Capsule Tie #5: “Wedding” Tie

For our final capsule tie, we’re going to pick something extra special, something we’re going to call a “wedding tie” – but, realistically, it means “a very formal tie.”

Unlike our previous selections, this one has less room for interpretation. This is something you’ll want to wear for those really special occasions. It’s our classification of a wedding tie, as it’s easy to understand the level of formality you typically expect at a wedding.

So, you’re going to want to look for something that’s got a silver base color as it’s not as ostentatious as gold. Black may be a formal color for shoes and other leather accessories, but the only time you should be wearing a black necktie is at somber events like a funeral. The silver color is all about celebrating, which is why you’ll get more wear out of that tie than a black one.

As you’ve already chosen a dark navy blue grenadine tie, this will be the one you want to wear if you’re attending a funeral.

Getting back to a celebratory spirit, what details should you look for in this tie? Perhaps the most important element will be the weave. It should be something with an elegant sheen like jacquard silk that will catch the light beautifully without being distracting.

With that in mind, avoid synthetic satin ties, which will try to emulate this effect, but just look cheap. The mirror effect is good for aviator sunglasses but not neckwear. The other detail you want to look for is the pattern featured on the tie; namely, skip the more casual patterns like paisleys as these are too informal for this type of tie and make you look like a TV game show host. Instead, focus on classic patterns that are neat and discreet, such as subtle stripes or marvelous micro patterns, as these will add an air of intrigue and dimension to your formal attire without being too fussy.

To go for something really unique when selecting your celebration tie, the basket weave pattern is particularly elegant, being a mixture of pleasing geometric micro-patterns and following the formal slant of a stripe. This piece combines the greatest parts of all your other capsule ties, resulting in a formal tie versatile enough to span dress codes – from business wear, to cocktail attire, and even morning dress.

So, the single tie could see you through your promotion at work, your wedding day, and elegant dinner receptions. There aren’t many other garments we can think of that will work as hard for you.

Conclusion

Now that you have the definitive list of the five essential ties you should own, you’ll be ready for any sartorial situation that comes your way.

Do you already have any of the ties we’ve listed today, or have we just inspired you to start collecting? We love to hear your thoughts on our list as well as what you consider your essential neckties in the comments below!

Outfit Rundown

So, today, I’m wearing a green suit jacket that happens to be double-breasted, with a light blue dress shirt, along with a navy grenadine tie from Fort Belvedere, as well as a blue-based paisley pocket square from Fort Belvedere, along with tan dress pants, chocolate brown Chelsea boots, and Fort Belvedere socks as well. Check out the Fort Belvedere shop for great ties, pocket squares, socks, and a host of other men’s accessories.