Inauguration & the Suits of the Presidents of the United States

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With the presidential inauguration taking place on Jan 20, 2021, we thought it was an excellent opportunity to take a closer look at the suits and outfits worn by U.S. Presidents throughout history on their inaugural day.You will probably be surprised to see how the outfits developed over time. The very first was George Washington in 1789 in New York City wearing a morning coat with ruffled shirt, knee length trousers, matching waistcoat, over the calf silk hose and buckle shoes.

Table of Contents
  1. Conclusion
George Washington in Morning Dress at the First Inauguration in NYC April 30, 1789
George Washington in Morning Dress at the First Inauguration in NYC April 30, 1789 [Image Credit: Bloomberg]

Andrew Jackson wore a very different outfit with a black tailcoat, trousers, and vest, combined with a white starched shirt and big black bow tie.

Andrew Jackson at the first capitol inauguration in 1829 with tailcoat, high cut waistcoat & black bow tie
Andrew Jackson at the first Capitol inauguration in 1829 with tailcoat, high-cut waistcoat & black bow tie [Image Credit: New York Times]

On the other hand, Lincoln wore a frock coat in 1865, which was an upcoming trend at the time.

Lincoln in frock coat and black bow tie at his second inauguration in 1865
Lincoln in frock coat and black bow tie at his second inauguration in 1865 [Image Credit: Wikipedia]

Ulysses S. Grant wore once again a black tailcoat with a black bow tie, and for his ball, people were not allowed to wear overcoats, hats or canes, which must have been the exception to the rule back then.

Inauguration Oath of Ulysses S. Grant in tailcoat and black bow tie with stiff cuffed shirt and cufflinks 1873
Inauguration Oath of Ulysses S. Grant in tailcoat and black bow tie with stiff cuffed shirt and cufflinks 1873 [Image Credit: Wikipedia]
Inaugurational Ball on March 4, 1873 for Ulysses S. Grant
Inauguration Ball on March 4, 1873, for Ulysses S. Grant [Image Credit: Wikimedia Commons]

Chester Arthur was one of the first presidents to adopt the stroller suit, but if you look closely, you will notice that his jacket had rounded quarters similar to a morning coat but much shorter in length.

Chester Arthur Sep 20, 1881 in Stroller Suit with open quarters
Chester Arthur Sep 20, 1881 in Stroller Suit with open quarters [Image Credit: Wikipedia]

William McKinley wore a double breasted frock coat with partial silk-faced lapels. Of course, during the speech he took off his top hat.

William McKinley in frock coat & black bow tie at his first inauguration, March 4, 1897
William McKinley in frock coat & black bow tie at his first inauguration, March 4, 1897 [Image Credit: Star Gazette]

Theodore Roosevelt wore a turndown collar in this picture paired with a necktie and a frock coat. While common nowadays he was fashion forward back then because the bow tie and stiff wing collar were considered more traditional back then.

Theodore Roosevelt in frock coat with striped necktie and turndown collar at Oath of Office, September 14, 1901
Theodore Roosevelt in frock coat with striped necktie and turndown collar at Oath of Office, September 14, 1901 [Image Credit: Amazon]

Top hats were reserved for the wealthy while the general public wore bowler hats or Homburg hats.

Theodore Roosevelt in carriage on Pennsylvania Avenue on way to Capitol, March 4, 1905].
Theodore Roosevelt in a carriage on Pennsylvania Avenue on the way to Capitol, March 4, 1905 [Image Credit: CBS News]
Roosevelt Inauguration Day in 1905
Roosevelt Inauguration Day in 1905 [Image Credit: Wikipedia]

Taft was a portly president, and he liked to wear fur. At his inauguration, we can see him wearing a fitted fur-lined overcoat with fur collar and cuffs as well as a top hat but without gloves.

William Howard Taft Inauguration, March 4, 1909
William Howard Taft Inauguration, March 4, 1909 [Image Credit: Time]

The dress code remained unchanged.

President-elect Wilson and President Taft, standing side by side, laughing, at White House prior to Wilson's inauguration ceremonies, March 4, 1913
President-elect Wilson and President Taft, standing side by side, laughing, at White House before Wilson’s inauguration ceremonies, March 4, 1913 [Image Credit: Amazon.com]
Woodrow Wilson and wife riding in back seat of a carriage to second inauguration with top hat and velvet collar on March 5, 1917
Woodrow Wilson and wife riding in back seat of a carriage to the second inauguration with top hat and velvet collar on March 5, 1917 [Image Credit: The Guardian]
President Wilson, with top hat and speech in hand, delivering his inaugural address, March 5, 1917
President Wilson, with top hat and speech in hand, delivering his inaugural address, March 5, 1917 [Image Credit: Time]

President Harding in a light colored overcoat with a fur collar.

President Harding waving to crowd from inaugural stand on east portico of U.S. Capitol, March 4, 1921
President Harding waving to crowd from inaugural stand on east portico of U.S. Capitol, March 4, 1921 [Image Credit: NBC News]

Just look at the splendid top hats…

Woodrow Wilson, Warren G. Harding, Philander Knox and Joseph Cannon, in convertible, March 4, 1921
Woodrow Wilson, Warren G. Harding, Philander Knox and Joseph Cannon, in convertible, March 4, 1921 [Image Credit: Walmart]

Coolidge in morning wear.

President Coolidge, Mrs. Coolidge and Senator Curtis on the way to the Capitol, March 4, 1925.
President Coolidge, Mrs. Coolidge and Senator Curtis on the way to the Capitol, March 4, 1925. [Image Credit: Amazon]
Chief Justice William H. Taft administering the oath of office to Herbert Hoover on the east portico of the U.S. Capitol, March 4, 1929
Chief Justice William H. Taft administering the oath of office to Herbert Hoover on the east portico of the U.S. Capitol, March 4, 1929 [Image Credit: Wikipedia]

Franklin Delano Roosevelt in a fur collar and polished top hat.

Franklin Delano Roosevelt and Herbert Hoover in convertible automobile on way to Capitol for Roosevelt's inauguration, March 4, 1933
Franklin Delano Roosevelt and Herbert Hoover in convertible automobile on the way to Capitol for Roosevelt’s inauguration, March 4, 1933 [Image Credit: Amazon]

FDR with an evening overcoat with cloak and velvet collar – it is too bad that this kind of overcoats has almost vanished entirely.

President Franklin D. Roosevelt inauguration, 1937 with shiny top hat and evening overcoat with cape and frog closure
President Franklin D. Roosevelt inauguration, 1937 with shiny top hat and evening overcoat with cape and frog closure
Chief Justice Charles Evans Hughes administering the oath of office to Franklin Delano Roosevelt on the east portico of the U.S. Capitol, January 20, 1941
Chief Justice Charles Evans Hughes administering the oath of office to Franklin Delano Roosevelt on the east portico of the U.S. Capitol, January 20, 1941

Harry S. Truman swearing the oath. For more information about his wardrobe take a look at this post. Here you can see his ties and shoes.

Chief Justice Harlan F. Stone administering the oath of office to Harry S. Truman in the Cabinet Room of the White House, April 12, 1945
Chief Justice Harlan F. Stone administering the oath of office to Harry S. Truman in the Cabinet Room of the White House, April 12, 1945 [Image Credit: Posterazzi]

Eisenhower in 1953 wearing a roomy, double breasted overcoat.

President Dwight D. Eisenhower inauguration, 1953 in double breasted overcoat
President Dwight D. Eisenhower inauguration, 1953 in double breasted overcoat [Image Credit: Town & Coountry]

Eisenhower in morning dress, reacting to the cheering of the spectators.

Eisenhower in Monring Coat
Eisenhower in Morning Coat [Image Credit: Posterazzi]
Dwight D. Eisenhower in Stroller suit taking oath of office in a private ceremony in the East Room of the White House, January 20, 1957
Dwight D. Eisenhower in Stroller suit taking oath of office in a private ceremony in the East Room of the White House, January 20, 1957 [Image Credit: Eisenhower Library]

John F. Kennedy in full morning dress with top hat.

JFK with top hat and overcoat
JFK with top hat and overcoat {Image Credit: Eagle Tribune]

JFK in morning coat giving his 1961 inauguration speech.

John F. Kennedy in morning dress delivering his inaugural address, January 20, 1961
John F. Kennedy in morning dress delivering his inaugural address, January 20, 1961 [Image Credit: Snopes]

JFK wearing the evening equivalent of the morning coat outfit to the inauguration ball: white tie with wing collar, stiff fronted shirt and piqée vest with studs.

Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy
Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy [Image Credit: Mirror]
Chief Justice Earl Warren administering the oath of office to Richard M. Nixon on the east portico of the U.S. Capitol, January 20, 1969
Chief Justice Earl Warren administering the oath of office to Richard M. Nixon on the east portico of the U.S. Capitol, January 20, 1969 [Image Credit: Rufus Young Blood]

Nixon with a shawl collar tuxedo and cummerbund at the inauguration ball.

Nixon in black tie at the inaugurational ball with shawl collar tuxedo, cummerbund & studs
Nixon in black tie at the inauguration ball with shawl collar tuxedo, cummerbund & studs [Image Credit: Wikimedia Commons]

President Ford wearing just a plain suit with a striped tie.

Inauguration of President Ford in a solid suit with a boldly striped tie
Inauguration of President Ford in a solid suit with a boldly striped tie [Image Credit: Posterazzi]

Reagan was the last US president to wear a stroller suit for his inauguration in 1981.

Reagan was the last President to wear a stroller suit on his inauguration day in 1981
Reagan was the last President to wear a stroller suit on his inauguration day in 1981. We’d love to see a president wear one again. [Image Credit: Amazon]

In 1985, he switched to a regular suit.

Ronald Reagan, Nancy Reagan
Ronald Reagan in striped tie, dark suit, pocket square and double cuffs with Nancy Reagan

George H. W. Bush is a dark suit with silver tie in 1989.

Bush senior in Suit 1989
Bush senior in Suit and barel cuffs 1989

Bill Clinton in a dark suit with plain tie in 1993.

Clinton 1993 in a dark suit
Clinton 1993 in a dark suit
George W. Bush junior
George W. Bush junior

Obama in 2009 & 2013

Barack Obama, Michelle Obama, Sasha Obama, Malia Obama
Barack Obama, Michelle Obama, Sasha Obama, Malia Obama in 2009 – his pants are way too long.
U.S. Supreme Court Chief Justice John Roberts administers the oath of office to U.S. President Barack Obama during ceremonies in Washington
U.S. Supreme Court Chief Justice John Roberts administers the oath of office to U.S. President Barack Obama during ceremonies in Washington
Trump on inauguration day Jan 20, 2017 wearing a dark overcoat and a red shiny satin tie that extends way past beyond the waistband pointing at his crotch - not very flattering
Trump on inauguration day Jan 20, 2017 wearing a dark overcoat, white double cuffed shirt and a bright red tie that is 4-5 inches too long, drawing the eye towards his crotch, rather than his face

Based on the fact that Trump has been wearing his ties that way all year, it is safe to say he doesn’t do it by mistake. In any case, Stephen Colbert of all people did a funny analysis of Trump’s tie:

YouTube video

Detail shots show that he taped his tie ends together with scotch tape, even though a tie bar would have been much more elegant. Even worse, it seems to be a habit as the picture from Dec 1, 2016 shows.

Scotch tape on the tie of Trump at the inauguration
Scotch tape on the tie of Trump at the inauguration
Donald Trump with tape on his tie at Indianapolis International Airport Dec. 1, 2016, in Indianapolis
Donald Trump with tape on his tie at Indianapolis International Airport Dec. 1, 2016, in Indianapolis

Joe Biden came in a navy single breasted 3 button overcoat with notched lapels, which was made by Ralph Lauren at a Hickey Freeman factory in the US. He skipped the pocket square in the overcoat and went with an American flag pin instead. While he did not wear a scarf for the inauguration itself, he later had a double-sided solid colored light grey and blue scarf on when he exited the car.

Joe Biden wearing a navy single breasted overcoat
Joe Biden wearing a navy single breasted overcoat
Joe Biden at work Photo Doug Mills EPA
Joe Biden at work Photo Doug Mills EPA

His gloves were plain black. His suit was likewise Ralph Lauren made by Hickey Freeman. Simple plain navy 2 button suit with flap pockets, side vents and quite some shoulder padding. The pants had a trim cut, not cuffs and he paired them with plain, black, capless leather Blucher shoes and dark socks. He wore a white spread collar dress shirt with neatly starched french cuffs, that fit him well, and were not too big. The cufflinks were round and seem to be a blue background with goldcrest. His tie looked like a light blue solid satin tie, which is something many politicians wear, and can be found at the $5 on ebay. A nice white crown fold pocket square finished off the look together with an American flag pin on the lapel.

Biden at the inauguration wearing a Rolex Datejust and t-bar cufflinks - note he leaves the bottom button of his 4 wrist buttons on his overcoat undone. Also his collar gaps
Biden at the inauguration wearing a Rolex Datejust and t-bar cufflinks – note he leaves the bottom button of his 4 wrist buttons on his overcoat undone. Also his collar gaps

Overall, Biden plays it very safe and unexciting like most politicians these days. Rather than going for a gold round simple watch with a white dial, he wore a Rolex Datejust, with a smooth bezel, applied markers, and Arabic numerals around the dial. He also wore stainless band sports watch in on January 20, 2013.

Overall, it is a somber outfit, and while he has demonstrated in the past that he likes Ralph Lauren he does not seem to be a style enthusiast otherwise he would not have worn the satin tie day or cheap t-bar cufflinks for a day event or a sports watch for a formal event such as the inauguration, and the his collar would not have gapped once he raised his hands.

While Rolex watches are a good investment, it would have been nice to see him not just buying an American made suit but also an American watch. Ironically, most people focus on where the clothes are made, but I would guess they cost less than his watch. In all fairness, Dwight Eisenhower, Lyndon Johnson, Ronald Reagan, Barack Obama and Donald Trump also wore Rolex watches…

Conclusion

The inauguration used to be a much dressier and more formal event where top hats and proper morning dress were obligatory. Sadly, ever since Reagan’s second inauguration, U.S. President have only worn plain solid suits with uninteresting neckties and I would love to see a stroller or even a morning coat at such a celebratory event in the future. What do you think? Do you think a suit is enough or would you prefer a slight change in dress for such special occasions?

Reader Comments

  1. I disagree with your conclusion. From your list, it does not look at all as if the inauguration “used to be much dressier”. With the possible exception of JFK’s formal morning wear, it looks to me as if presidents have generally stuck to the dress code prevalent in politics/business at the time.

    I think this is perfectly fine – at the inauguration, the president should arguably dress in the way that it is customary for statesmen to dress at ceremonial daytime occasions. These days, that arguably, for men, means a plain dark suit with a white shirt and uninteresting tie. While I would welcome a more interesting presidential wardrobe of course, I think it’s important that, as a symbol of the democratic nature of the office, the president’s wardrobe should stay well within custom accepted in parliament and in business.

    1. Dear Thomas, thanks for sharing your opinion. As you point out, conventions were different back then and people wore different things, nevertheless a morning coat or stroller are dressier than a regular suit.
      Also, when Ford gave his inaugural speech, he wore a suit but 8 years later, Reagan wore a stroller and it looked decent. Of course a poliitician should not dress like a king, nevertheless I don’t think that a morning coat would be out of touch, especially since this is a single festive event in a term.

    2. This is a good article and I agree, the STANARD in the way men DRESS as well as the way they CONDUCT themselves has fallen by the wayside. Keep the articles coming!!

  2. Dear Raphael,

    First of all, allow me to congratulate you on this Great blog. One of the few that I truly enjoy reading. I fully agree with your conclusion and I would definitely like to see more formal dressing. Today, wearing a suit is the highest level of formality and it is sad.
    I’m actually disappointed by President Obama dress at the inaugural Balls more than I am for the inauguration ceremony itself. Four years ago, I thought to myself, okay he wore a white tie with a notch lapel suit, let’s forgive him especially in these times when not many men wear formal dress in the first place. But repeating the same mistake today is just disappointing. It is not just him though. I’ve seen former President of France, Nicolas Sarkozy, once in Germany wearing a belt and oxfords with a white tie.

    Landry

  3. I like Taft’s coat and hat. Sadly, I can’t imagine I’ll ever get my hands on a fur trimmed coat or silk topper at a price I can justify to myself.

    On the subject of top hats, is it just me or does the hat band of Coolidge’s extend most of the way up it? Only the top quarter or so appears to have the shiny quality one would expect. Does anyone know why that is?

    As for the dress of presidents, I agree that the use of standard business or lounge suits is hardly surprising. Politicians want to appear to be rather like the rest of us. They don’t want to appear to be stuffy or remote from ordinary people. In the UK we have an old Etonian Prime Minister who often doesn’t wear a tie and won’t wear morning dress to weddings for fear it will make him look like the privileged individual undoubtedly he is: such is the strange dance of controlling public image.

    As for Obama’s outfit at the ball, I’ve just looked that up. The white bow tie with dinner jacket is eccentric, the quality of the dinner jacket itself disappointing. Obama clearly isn’t someone overly concerned by clothing as part of his image. And Landry, I can see the objection to wearing a belt with white tie but oxford shoes are perfectly acceptable, surely.

    1. Hal,
      Coolidge is wearing a mourning band in this picture. Cameron did indeed refuse to wear morning dress for the Duke & Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding.
      I am not sure whether Obama chooses his own clothes or if he has someone who does it for him. In any case there is quite a bit room for improvement. I would love to dress him in proper white tie sometimes.

      1. Hi Raphael,
        Iโ€™d say Obama chooses his clothes – look at the way his trousers puddle at the bottoms almost as they havenโ€™t been hemmed properly. A stylist would pick up on things like that.

    1. No, it’s George W. Bush. HW is his father. No seniors or junior.
      Sven, apropos your comment about Trump’s necktie being too long — it’s pointing out what it seems he’s most proudest of and with which he appears to do most of his thinking.

      1. I just noticed most of these are dated January 2013. 2013?! Which alternate universe are you guys corresponding from?

      2. I believe that this post is a discussion of presidential attire at the inauguration. It would be appreciated by readers such as myself if you would direct your umbrage and vituperation concerning your political disappointment to another forum more appropriate for politically oriented insults.

  4. “Fancy dresses” are worn these days, too. The difference to the good old days is that they look ugly, have a brand, and are manufactured by children in underdeveloped countries. Oh, one more difference, the money spent on these dresses wanders to some overly rich “designers” in France, Italy, or some place else; it does not support some earnest, middle-class craftsman/woman in your neighborhood (like seen in Astairs’ classical “Swing Time”)…

    Personally, I think the President is paid well enough to buy some good-looking clothes!

  5. Cajetan, we were not talking about dresses but how presidents dress in general. At a yearly salary of $400,000 the president could certainly buy decent clothes, however I am not even sure he has to pay for his own clothes.

  6. RE the apparent mourning band on President Calvin Coolidge’s top hat – he assumed the presidency, as vice-president, upon the sudden death of President Warren Harding in 1923. One expects his first inauguration was performed quickly and privately. He was elected president in his own right in 1924 and the photo above is from his formal inauguration, held in 1925. One can only assume that he, out of respect and deference to the recently dead president, was observing a sign of mourning for President Harding.
    Looking at the various photos (thank you Sven) there were really only two presidents who seemed to have a heightened sense of style – Presidents Woodrow Wilson and John Kennedy. I believe it is safe to suggest they were dressing in a more formal fashion by choice rather than the seeming habits of the others, by convention, given there are many photos of both of these men in formal dress at various occasions, e.g., Wilson at Versailles Treaty signing, Kennedy at his wedding.
    I’ll also give a nod to President Ronald Reagan, who, for his first inauguration, listened to his wife, Nancy, who insisted on formal attire for the event. It was well-publicized at the time that Mrs. Reagan was the person who made the decision to request formal wear for the gentlemen.
    Lastly, regarding President Barack Obama’s choices – he famously wears an American maker (who used to be headquartered in Chicago) for all of his suits, Hart Shaffner and Marx (now Hartmarx). I’ve never considered them to be of very high quality but, given the pressures of politics now and how every decision is scrutinized, the choice is understandable. I’m quite sure President Obama’s tuxedo was made by Hartmarx. However, there is no excuse for the white tie – in 2009 or 2013! I attended one of the inauguration balls in 2009 and remember thinking when he walked out on the stage, “what is he thinking?!?!”

    1. Charles, thank you for your insightful comment. I was not aware of the connection between Harding and Coolidge’s mourning band – I just knew that it was one…
      In regard to Obama’s suit choice, Oxxford would be another American manufacturer of suits in the US but they are better quality. Some people may think it is elitist for a president to wear an expensive suit, at the same time he represents the USA and the cost of a suit, even if it costs $5,000 is so marginal compared to the other expenses he incurs. At the same time, there are few things as impressive as a well fitting suit.
      Personally, I think Obama should have a custom suit. Obviously, his clothing advisors don’t know what they are talking about or maybe he does not listen to them. That being said, I would love to advice the White House on proper formal wear some day.

      I know your statement about Wilson and Kennedy was based on these pictures alone but Truman was also well dressed imho. Have you taken.

      Thanks for pointing out that Reagan’s wife was the one behind the formal dress, I did not know that.

    2. I believe Coolidge was mourning the death of his son, Calvin Jr, who died on July 7 1924.

  7. I totally agree with the writer. An inauguration would be perfectly acceptable occasion to wear a stroller or morning dress. Especially when the United States still retains morning dress for official government functions. The United States solicitor general and other lawyers from the U.S. Attorney General all appear before the Supreme Court in morning coats, minus the top hat.
    The President can and in my opinion, should dress more formally for these events, he is a representative of the people and represents the Unites States most visibly and should dress the part. Unfortunately, I believe the days of the top hat are dead, (at least here in the U.S.) though it is a perfectly acceptable component of morning dress, I believe it is seen as “too costumey” in todays increasingly informal culture.

  8. Thank you, Charles Stanforth, for the answer to my question about Coolidge’s hatband. My knowledge of US history clearly isn’t up to snuff.

  9. There was a recent article, I believe in Vanity Fair, that interviewed President Obama. One of the things he talked about was a study that showed that even mundane choices in our daily lives, e.g., choosing the clothes to wear on any given day, requires a significant amount of brain activity. The president stated very clearly that he has made the choice to wear only navy blue or dark grey suits, white shirts, and simple ties so that he doesn’t have to think what about what to wear. In other words, he has more important decisions to make each day and doesn’t want to clutter his mind with what he would term mundane issues. Also, as I mentioned before, he famously chose Hartmarx for his clothes because it is both an American company and American made. And the fact it was headquartered in Chicago also influenced his decision. Thankfully he’s tall and in good physical shape so, even though his clothes are not custom made or even made-to-measure, as least I’ve never read anything that says he buys anything other than off-the-rack, he does wear his clothes rather well. But, still, a white bow tie with a tuxedo? Sadly I have a feeling that was his personal choice and not an advisor. But Michelle sure looked great!

    1. Sounds like a perfectly reasonable explanation to me. However, although Hart Marx is headquartered in Chicago, the suits are made in Des Plaines, IL.. On the other hand , Oxxford tailors all their suits are right in Chicago. So based on that and the fact that their suits are way superior, I think he could take a step up and get navy and charcoal suits there.

  10. The President has a fine figure for clothes. He would have done well to wear a stroller, or black lounge, for it is so close to the customary lounge suit that no undue attention would have been called to the occasion. I always look for the right moment to wear this semi-formal day coat for it is old world, yet modern and deserves a return to favor.

    1. Trump clearly doesn’t care about public opinion. Is married to one of the beautiful and elegant women of her generation and America is still the leader of the free world–and the envy of the rest of it!
      I hope Trump’s term restores dignity, elegance and marquise the amazing charm of the American experience. I am appalled that for fear of looking elitist–which America alone is–we ‘dress and dumb’ down.
      Reagan referred to America as a ‘shining light’, presumably in a darkened world.
      Let’s stop apologizing for our greatness.
      The world needs to embrace the beautiful, the dignified and charmed if to but contrast that which lacks it.

      1. THAT!
        Sven is why your Magazine is so needed today! Another generation and the noble and elegant might have all but diappeared.
        Thank You.

        1. When did ‘Elite’ become a slur?
          We are all striving to become so in our personal lives. What could be higher praise that to attain to such an accomplishment?
          Our first Lady is arguably the most beautiful women in the White House in history!
          Trump one of the most successful businessmen in America.
          What a contrast to previous Presidential families.
          Suit up America!

  11. Finely written article, as are all that I have read on this blog. I agree 100% with your summation. This event is a very special one and is not an average day at the office for the President. A return to top hats and morning dress would be superb in my humble opinion.

  12. Great article. I understand many of these comments but I agree with your summation completely. Formality appears to be lost to many in the modern era and this is the perfect event to return to it.

  13. A rich discussion here. I would add one observation: There is an old saying that in a democracy the people get exactly the leaders they deserve. This goes for the leaders’ clothes as well. As Mr. Jollans observed, Presidential wardrobes have generally been long on convention and short on novelty. They reflect the dominant cultural values of their times as, indeed, Presidents themselves do.

    Mr. Obama’s comments (related by Mr. Stanford above) perfectly sum-up the pose of dismissiveness towards all things sartorial that characterizes American males of our times. His wince-inducing appearances in both black and white tie is convincing evidence that he likewise shares his constituents fear of formality.

    Regarding the implied question of whether the preferences of Mr. Obama or his predecessors reflect political calculation or personal taste, the obvious answer is “both.” Take Mr. Obama. A natural outsider whose whole life can be viewed as a quest for acceptance by his country, he is unlikely to have an appetite for being deliberately “different” through his dress. He is also politically astute enough to know that those Americans who are most likely to perceive him as “the other,” white working-class males, are also the demographic most likely to bridle at both male elegance generally and formal wear specifically.

    Indeed, when we reflect on the exceptions to the rule of mediocrity identified above, we find the same melding of personal background and political branding.

    Wilson was the snobbish son of a churchman steeped in the myths of Southern gentility, president of Princeton University and an Anglophile of the first order. He instituted the State of the Union address as a sort of rep version of the UK’s Queen’s speech at the opening of Parliament and introduced the notion of Government as a technocratic enterprise best carried out by experts. His preference for “dressy” clothes was no doubt legitimate, but it also fit with his political image as a incorruptible, above the fray reformer.

    JFK, who adopted Wilson’s “best and brightest” elitism, combined the immigrant scion striver’s taste for visible markers of success with a lifetime of affording the very best tailoring. His wardrobe reflected what he was comfortable in personally. But he also knew his wardrobe was part of the prince charming/male Cinderella narrative that powered him to the White House.

    Mr. Reagan was a Hollywood actor from the elegant days of studio-enforced style. But he was also the leader of political movement built around nostalgia and a promise to return to the conventions of previous generations. His stepping things up to a Stresemann (or stroller if you must) played to both his stardust image and his cultural pose.

    I think these examples demonstrate is that the only time leaders rise above the norm sartorially in a democracy is when doing so reflects the politicians’ endearing public persona in an authentic way.

    (Sorry for running on…)

  14. By the way – great article! Thanks for all the work tracking down the images. It is a great collection.

  15. Thank you Cormac for sharing your opinion and for introducing the the individuals motives to this discussion. Now, what do you think would be appropriate attire for such an event?

  16. I would like to see stroller/Stresemann make a reappearance on public occasions, but the truth is that by current sartorial standards, it looks less formal– Reagan meant well, but if you look at some of the photos from the 1981 inauguration, you can see he’s wearing plain gray trousers (rather than striped), so it looks like he’s wearing a blazer and gray slacks, a step below “business suit” in formality.

    It’s also that we regard the inauguration as an event related to “the business of governing America”, rather than a daytime celebration like a wedding, so business suits are going to be the norm. The celebration-wear is for the evening’s Inaugural Balls.

  17. Glad you posted something about this subject. This was exactly what I was thinking about today. Great article!

  18. I am totally flabbergasted that no one has corrected Mr. Trump’s tie and sleeve lengths, and instructed him to use the top button of his suit coat.

    1. He has been wearing ties at this length all this past year (at very least). See his primary campaign videos – same thing – about 4 inches too long. It’s clear he does this on purpose, perhaps to challenge the standard or to boldly stand out.

      1. Just because he does it on purpose doesn’t make it any better ;). Stephen Colbert made a funny video about it the other day.

  19. I wish Trump would shorten the tie and button his coat more.
    I have an historic pattern for a 1904 sack suit. On it there are four examples of styles. What they don’t tell you up front is that two are bad examples. One thing they mention is you never are to wear a Derby with a frock coat. Or a top hat with a sack suit.

      1. Frankly, when he announced his candidacy and I thought it impossible that the American people would elect as president a man with a bad comb-over, improperly tied neckties, and ill fitting suits which he never buttons. I was wrong.

  20. Greetings!
    What a wonderful, timely article.
    Abraham Lincoln was the first, but certainly not the last, President to patronize Brooks Brothers Clothiers.
    Chester Arthur was known as a dandy in his day, and had more than seventy pair of trousers in his closet!
    So unconcerned was FDR with his clothing, that Eleanor wrote of her surprise that the President asked to have his shirt cuffs “turned” in an effort to extend their usefulness.
    Harry Truman had been a haberdasher, and was always nattily attired. In fact, an exhibit at the Truman Library is devoted to his clothing from sunglasses to spectators!
    JFK changed clothes at least three times every day. He preferred two-button suit jackets when three-button sacks reigned. Kennedy/Nixon Debates showcase this contrast. JFK eschewed button-down shirts considering them “juvenile.” Kennedy also revived pocket squares, ruined the market for headgear, and brought an elegance to leisure wear.
    Lyndon Johnson habitually wore tab collar shirts, boring skinny ties, and unremarkable, plain suits as President, despite previously fashionable phase.
    Richard Nixon wore only white dress shirts, almost always blue serge suits, and ties with muted patterns; rarely stripes. Nixon always wore a jacket in the Oval Office, and a dress shirt and tie even whilst bowling in the White House.
    A former athlete and fashion model, Gerald Ford always seemed natural in his dress clothes. As three-piece suits made a comeback during his Presidency, Mr. Ford wore them well with wide neckties.
    Frugal Jimmy Carter notably bought his inaugural suit off-the-rack from his usual haberdashery in Americus, Georgia for $195.00. Until a makeover prior to the 1980 election, Mr. Carter always looked to me like he was wearing a big brother’s clothes.
    On his way to the 1989 Inaugural, George H.W. Bush chided his dais companions about how their suits appeared to fit poorly. Then Mr. Bush realized that everyone but him wore a Kevlar vest beneath their layers of Brooks Brothers tailoring!
    Allen-Edmonds were the shoes of choice for Bill Clinton, although Johnston and Murphy made him a Presidential pair.
    George W. Bush and Barack Obama both patronized Oxxford, but we also know Mr. Obama likes Hartmarx.
    Question now is, “Will Washington DC gentlemen now refrain from buttoning their suit jackets, and obscure their belt buckles with neckties?”

    1. Seventy pair ? and I thought I was pushing it with 55 Pair (which cause my closet bar to collapse)
      There is no excuse for any American male to dress poorly. There are many fine independent shops to take care of your every need or style.

  21. Mr Kennedy and Mr Reagan look fantastic ; men get only a few chances in life to look magnificent .

  22. Quick comment! Obama -trousers too long. Trump will need a quick makeover on his next trip to London ! Suggest popping in to Saville Row SW1 and having a few decent fittings suits made. They deliver too. At the same time a visit to nearby Jermyn Street will do no harm to buy some decent ties.

  23. Inauguration togs: yes, something more formal but at least we don’t have military uniforms!

    re.: FDR’s coat with shoulder cape. I have one something like that which came from the J. Peterman catalog sp 20 years ago. Doesn’t have a velvet collar tho.

  24. Agree wholeheartedly Sven.
    JFK set the attire standard with his morning coat and top hat.
    This should be a condition of taking the oath of office.
    No top hat and morning coat, and your are forbidden from entering the White House.

  25. The last President to wear a morning coat was Kennedy in 1961, who, sadly, used a modern foldover collar. In 1981, the inaugural committee (as I recall the news reports) wanted all male high government officials to wear formal dress, but cutaways had gone out of fashion and out of production, so it was impossible to secure enough in the Washington area. In the end, President Reagan himself wore a stroller. Fortunately, since then, the production of cutaways in the US has increased, but, sorry to say, inaugural attire has seemingly settled on the black business (also called sack) suit without a hat.

  26. I agree with your comments about Obama’s trousers being too long and Trump’s Tie being 4 to 5 inches. However, Obama’s dress sense is far too superior compared to that if Trump’s

  27. I agree whole-heartedly that inauguration dress has become too informal. I’d love to see someone wear proper morning attire for an inauguration. I was flipping through inaugural ball coverage last week and noticed Trump in black tie at an event. I told my wife that if I were president, I would make it mandatory that the dress for evening balls would be white tie. I feel such an event merits that kind of dress.

  28. What a shame that political bias influence this otherwise informational and fun site. Pitiful trolls criticizing a giant. How come there are no comments on Obamaโ€™s trouser 5 inches to long and bunched, in addition to those aesthetically hideous shoes. Gentleman’s wannabe of which their despicable behavior unbecoming; has much to said about themselves. Judges of hatred and bitterness I despise you all.
    Sayonara termagants!

  29. Lovely article. Yes, I agree. I believe that people being inaugurated should be dressed more formally. Would love to see at least a three-piece suit being worn, though preferably a morning suit or stroller.
    As for Obama, at least he makes it look good. Pity Biden didnโ€™t wear the Brooks Brothers like his predecessors. Interesting that Kennedy didnโ€™t wear a wing collar with his morning suit (unless I didnโ€™t see it properly). Other than that, great article!

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