For those in the know, the character of Perry Mason has been at the center of many types of media. He’s probably most well known, though, as the main character of a long-running television series (which was, in turn, based on a series of books by author Erle Stanley Gardner). Today, however, we’ll take a look at the new Perry Mason series from HBO and analyze its style.
Perry Mason: Small-Screen Menswear Style Review
The original TV series was broadcast from 1957 to 1966, running for 9 seasons and 271 episodes. In it, actor Raymond Burr portrayed Perry Mason as a clean-shaven, unflappable defense attorney who was always able to get people to confess to a crime on the witness stand. We’re not going to discuss the style of the original series in-depth today; partly because much of it was shot in black and white, and partly because most of the styles featured were in the mod and jet-age fashions of the late ’50s and the early ’60s, which were clean but overall, unremarkable.
Meanwhile, the new series from HBO (which features Matthew Rhys in the title role) is a gritty and noir-ish origin story for the character, attempting to make him seem more like a real person with human flaws. This series introduces us to the character at possibly his lowest point: as an unemployed, divorced owner of a now-defunct dairy farm on the edges of Los Angeles in 1932. Not only is the city in the throes of The Great Depression, but there’s also quite a bit of institutional corruption going on, which we see plainly. Thankfully for us as viewers, this new series is far more interesting from a stylistic point of view, and for clothes buffs, this is a particularly special time in the history of menswear.
The Golden Age of Menswear
At this point in the 1930s, men’s style had completely emerged from the Victorian era into the modern era. The Prince of Wales (later to be the Duke of Windsor) was setting style trends the world over, and menswear overall was at its most detailed, elegant, and flattering in all of the 20th century–at least, in our opinion.
This show exemplifies everything we love about 1930s fashion. From the rich fabric patterns to the classic and flattering silhouettes, to the copious wearing of hats and other accessories, we think it’s really the height of classic menswear. In fact, we appreciate the style of this era so much that we wrote a book about it: Gentlemen of the Golden Age. Of course, it must be stated that at this time, racism, inequality, poverty, unemployment, and corruption were all running rampant–and this isn’t something that’s glossed over by the show. We won’t go into the details of the plot here, but the costumes worn by the various characters are a treat for the eyes and for any lover of classic men’s style.
Style Breakdown: Perry Mason
At least at the beginning of the series, Perry’s style does an excellent job of illustrating just what state he’s in. He’s a grizzled World War I veteran, desperate and downtrodden, and in some scenes, is portrayed as really just above homeless. His most distinctive style choice is a worn leather jacket. This is somewhat unique, as leather jackets aren’t typically worn as outerwear by most men in this time period (unless specifically required as part of one’s job, say, for example, being a pilot). Still, this jacket gives him a distinctively working-class air and helps him to keep a low profile when he’s doing things like investigating and searching for clues.
He owns only one suit; a simple gray wool suit with a notched lapel, that is baggy and somewhat rumpled in its fit–really in the style of a sack suit. He favors striped or patterned shirts in shades of pale brown or ivory, which for someone of his means, would be easy to maintain in that day and age. He rarely buttons up his collars entirely, which adds to his dilapidated air. He also wears the short patterned ties that were characteristic of the era. However, he doesn’t pair these ties with higher-rise trousers, which also would have been common at the time. We’re not sure if this was just an oversight on the part of the costume designer, or a deliberate choice of Mason the character.
To show how little he cares about his appearance, his clothes are often dirty and worn and he’ll wear them in multiple scenes, sometimes over multiple days. In one scene, he even pays the coroner to let him take a necktie from one of the residents of his morgue. At the time though, many men didn’t actually own a lot of clothing, so it’s accurate to show many of the male characters (aside from the affluent ones) repeatedly wearing the same clothes over and over again. Importantly though, while Perry Mason is on the fringes of polite society, he still upholds the base level of what would be considered as acceptable clothing for a man at that time.
He always wears a jacket outside of the home, for instance; collared and button-up shirts are the norm; he’ll almost always be wearing a tie in social situations; and he’ll wear a hat whenever he’s outdoors. Given Perry’s practical approach, analytical mind, and what we expect to be his eventual transformation into a justice-bent defense attorney, we think that he’ll probably get his style act together in the future as the series continues. Maybe it won’t be quite to the same finely-wrought degree as his mentor-cum-father-figure, E.B. Jonathan, but it will probably be elevated as time goes on.
Style Breakdown: E.B. Jonathan
Let’s next cover the style of the character of E.B. Jonathan, as played by John Lithgow. As the lead criminal defense attorney in Los Angeles, E.B Jonathan is the most sumptuously and nattily dressed character on the entire show. He employs Perry Mason to do his detective work, and as we mentioned before, he acts as sort of a father figure to Mason. He’s often depicted as sitting behind his broad office desk or drinking whiskey in his gentleman’s club, seemingly oblivious to Prohibition.
He wears a completely new ensemble in almost every scene in which he’s featured, which speaks not only to his affluence but also to his position in society. He exclusively wears three-piece suits that feature soft patterns like stripes or overchecks. The material of these suits is quite heavy, so it will drape attractively. This is a key feature of 1930s suiting, which prized structure and shape.
Like many of the characters on the show, he fully embraces all of the accessories that were common of 1930s dressing, such as collar clips, watch chains, Winchester shirts, and so on. His shirt collars are pointed but detachable, which is a holdover from the Victorian era. While they do have a more modern shape, they give him an aura of authority and suit his position and goals well. His Homburg hats and watch chains mark him out as a member of the older generation–whereas men of Perry’s generation are typically seen wearing things like fedoras and wristwatches. He also owns a shawl-collared silk bathrobe in a navy pattern which we think is supremely elegant.
Style Breakdown: Pete Strickland
The style of Perry Mason’s investigative sidekick, Pete Strickland (as played by Shea Whigham) is more irreverent and playful, which seems appropriate for his wise-cracking, sailor-mouthed character. Pete typically acts like he’s resentful of authority or men with greater power and status than he has, so his clothing choices might be a deliberate way to illustrate that he’s not going to fall in line with typical definitions of authority.
An example of this is that he, too, wears button-up shirts and ties, but often somewhat unbuttoned and loosely tied, to illustrate that he may be wearing them begrudgingly more than anything. He also wears a flat cap, possibly to communicate his lower-class status, although it may again be just to show that he doesn’t want to wear the hat styles that are common for men in higher stations. This is in contrast to Perry, who wears a scruffy fedora as a fallen member of the middle class. Pete’s patterns are often bolder and combined together in the same outfit, showing that he’s a bit more flashy, overall. For example, he’s got an overcoat in a small plaid pattern that is worn with wide, striped ties. And again like Perry, we do also see Pete wearing the same clothes repeatedly.
Style Breakdown: Paul Drake
The style of Paul Drake (as portrayed by Chris Chalk) is up next. As a black police officer in the deeply racist and corrupt 1930s Los Angeles Police Department, Paul is frequently marginalized and threatened if he doesn’t do as he’s told by the other officers. Meanwhile, though, he also has one of the most interesting wardrobes on the show. He’s frequently depicted in his police uniform, which is structured and crisp in much the same way as a military uniform might be. It features epaulets, brass buttons, a belt, and a cross-chest strap. His wide-legged pants are neatly creased and break perfectly over his shoes. His uniform is worn with a crisp white shirt and a dark necktie.
He also has a couple of distinct ensembles when wearing civilian attire. Because of his line of work and his already marginalized status in society, he really doesn’t have the luxury of being sloppy and lazy with his clothing, like Pete and Perry do. One noteworthy garment is a belted, peacoat-length, double-breasted jacket that appears to be in a rusty brown color. When observed more closely, however, it can actually be seen to be a unique blend of yellow, black, and orange threads. It has wide, rounded lapels that extend almost to his shoulders.
Paul also acts as a good example of the styling of 1930s button-up shirts. His shirts frequently feature small patterns and motifs, with long spear collars and narrow collar spreads. They also feature bold stripes in blue and white, for example. And he pairs these shirts with characteristically 1930s ties that are, again, short and boldly patterned. We think that his bold, crisp, and unique wardrobe speaks to his own personal pride and dignity, and he’s probably a character who will similarly evolve over the course of the show.
Other Noteworthy Outfits from The Show
1. District Attorney Maynard Barnes – This character (played by Stephen Root) is occasionally seen, and is a fan of large bow ties.
2. Film Executive – In episode 1, he wears a navy, pinstripe suit with a long, pointed collar.
3. Studio Owner – Also in episode 1, this character is depicted in White Tie.
4. Gambling Hall Owner – In episode 3, this character is seen wearing a dark shirt and an ivory jacket.
How Accurate are Perry Mason‘s 1930s Fashions?
So, as far as the costuming overall is concerned, the show has certainly leaned into getting the aesthetic of the 1930s down. With that said, though, they have made a few choices that are less than authentic. As we said before, we think that Perry’s leather jacket is an unusual choice for an everyday, around-town jacket (although there may be some unexplained, personal attachment to it for him). Also, it could be a visual shorthand to clearly differentiate him from the other characters. As we also mentioned before, medium-rise trousers weren’t really part of the 1930’s look, but Perry also wears them frequently. We don’t see many of the characters wear suspenders or braces, either. Certainly, E.B. Jonathan wears them underneath his suits and waistcoats, but for this time, we probably would’ve expected seeing other characters, like Pete and Perry, wear them as well.
How To Get The Look
With the style breakdown out of the way, let’s now discuss how to get the look of the Perry Mason series, if you’re so interested. You probably won’t be surprised to hear that we actually don’t recommend directly emulating the style of Perry Mason’s character, but there are still some things we can take from the show!
1. Leather Jacket
First, a leather jacket with a classic silhouette is something that is always going to be in style. It’s better to have a few tried-and-true, quality pieces in your wardrobe that you can wear multiple times, rather than having lots of things that you don’t like to wear.
Granted, they shouldn’t necessarily be worn so often that they’re shabby, but if you maintain your clothing, wearing something that’s versatile and that can be paired with many different elements is always a safe bet.
2. Vintage Hats
Vintage hat styles like fedoras can flatter many faces, and they’re an easy way to add some vintage cool to your outfit. The wider the brim and the higher the crown of the hat, the more old-school it’s going to look. So, play around with different hat styles until you find one that suits you best.
3. Collar Jewelry
The single easiest way to get a 1930s look to your outfits is to wear collar jewelry. Nearly every professional male character on the show does wear some form of collar jewelry. Some wear collar clips (like the prominent local businessman pictured below), others wear collar bars, and still others wear collar pins, such as E.B. Jonathan. Overall, it’s just a great look.
4. Accessories
We love how the best-dressed characters on the show are generally keen on wearing accessories. They used far more of them than the average modern man would, but accessories like pocket squares, tie clips, tie chains, and cufflinks round out their outfits with additional style elements.
5. Three-Piece Suit
Also, we do recommend that you give the three-piece suit a try. Nothing projects an air of confidence and authority in quite the same way as a three-piece suit does. It’s an elegant and professional look, and especially in the colder seasons, having the extra layer of fabric from the waistcoat can come in handy.
If you don’t have a specific three-piece suit, you also can try the style technique of wearing a two-piece suit with a contrasting waistcoat for a slightly more playful feel. Also, when wearing this three-piece suit, don’t forget to put on all of the accessories, including the pocket square, pocket watch or watch chain, bow tie or necktie in silk, collar clip or pin, and a hat. Just don’t wear collar jewelry and a bow tie at the same time!
6. Overcoat
Again, taking specific style inspiration from the character of Paul Drake, you should endeavor to find an overcoat style that fits you well. Finding something unique is probably easily achieved by buying vintage. If you do this, it will add a layer of complexity to an entire season’s worth of outfits.
7. Patterned Shirts
Also, try different shirt patterns, like stripes, micro-patterns, and so on. Today’s shirt wardrobes are often dominated by plain whites and blues, but Paul’s character reminds us that there are a variety of shirt pattern options out there to experiment with.
8. Wider-Legged Pants
If you’re tired of the current skinny trends or you just don’t have particularly thin legs, in either case, we’d suggest that you try experimenting with wider-legged pants. A well-cut pair of wider trousers that features a proper amount of break for your leg length will probably be more flattering to more men than the current trend for super-skinny styles.
“Wider-legged” doesn’t necessarily have to mean “wide-legged,” of course! Just something that’s a bit more substantial than current fashions would dictate.
9. Medium-High to High-Rise Trousers
Finally, a medium-high or high rise on your trousers will also lengthen your leg line or diminish the appearance of an overly long torso, thus making you look built up or traditionally masculine overall.
Have you been watching the new Perry Mason series? What do you think of the styles depicted? Share your thoughts in the comments!
Outfit Rundown
I’m going for a style that is directly aping the character of Perry Mason. Not something that we would recommend for everyone but something we thought would be playful for the nature of the video today.
The centerpiece of course is my vintage brown leather jacket which certainly has seen it’s fair share of wear and tear over the years. I’m wearing it undone to show off the striped pattern of my shirt which is more vintage in style and also my medium brown tie which also features a repeating micropattern. This isn’t a 1930s short tie but it still gets the point across with the size of its pattern as well as how it’s harmonizing with the other wardrobe elements.
My brown leather belt is also showing its age and its silver buckle is quite worn overall. My trousers are in a plain brown shade and they are somewhat wrinkled and crumpled. I’m wearing plain brown socks and my brown Derby shoes are also showing a bit of wear as I’ve had them for many years. The thick, all-rubber soles aren’t necessarily period accurate to the 1930s but their overall shopworn character seemed appropriate for today’s video.
And my final element style today is my black fedora, this is another element that I’ve had in my own personal wardrobe for many years which is why it’s showing so much age. If I have chosen to ape the style of the other characters on the show, E.B Jonathan for instance, that would’ve given me an opportunity to wear far more accessories.
And in that case, I could’ve gone to the Fort Belvedere shop to look for some. We’ve got a wide array of different kinds of menswear accessories including pocket squares, ties, collar jewelries and more so be sure to take a look to find something that you’ll love.
I think this is the most interesting commentary on the clothing style of a television show or a movie that I have yet seen here. Well done.
But Preston, get rid of those shoes! They are not proper footwear for a gentleman, even a down-at-heel one.
An interesting article, but I’m afraid that in this day and age if you affect a fedora and leather jacket, people are much more likely to think you’re emulating Indiana Jones rather than Perry Mason.
Dear Gentleman’s Gazette:
This article touches upon something I am curious about. When speaking of fashion in the 1930s to the 1950s, how was it that men wore heavier woolen garments even in warmer weather? Weren’t they uncomfortable, or were they used to it, or has global warming screwed up fashion by making more hot days out of the year? I have watched hundreds of movies from this era, and I know that men did wear unseasonable styles in hot weather. Also, I believe it is probably impossible to duplicate the style that existed in the 1930s because it’s simply a lost art in sartorial know-how. I also observe that many of the tweeds that men wore even fifty years ago are no longer existent, and had such different patterns than the now prosaic standardized herringbone that passes for the vintage look.
Weaving technology, fabric finishing and breeding sheep with finer hair was not as advanced as it is today. Also fabric was the most expensive part of a suit, as labor to sew it was inexpensive. Today, you can find great fabric at low prices but the labor is the most expensive thing in a bespoke suit. So people just had heavier fabrics and they just adapted to it. When I was in Naples or Charleston, I was hot and humid too, and men wore navy blazers and long pants. They were just used to it.
And now we come to how the masses are “dressed” in the 21st century. The act of dressing has become a lost art, as well as common sense. I see juveniles wearing shorts and T shirts in the dead of winter. Actually having what is called “style” seems to imply these days that one has more money than what is pitifully paid by minimum wage. I believe our society is fractured along the typical line of have and have not values. There also is a dearth of what being in balance brings. Everything now is made to be instantly disposable, and I suppose that people have applied this sad notion to how they dress. Only for the easiest comfort and nothing for panache and to be interesting. It’s almost as if we’ve retrogressed to medieval times except for the instant technology that mesmerizes everyone. Point is we live in a junk culture, with the grossest manifestation being now a demented President to give the masses bread and circuses instead of noble values. And by the way HE doesn’t know sartorial style from his @#$%*.
The belt with the leather cross piece over the shoulder worn by Paul Drake is a Sam Browne belt. Today, t’s mostly worn by military or police personnel in dress uniforms, typically with a sidearm or a sword/saber. The cross piece over the shoulder keeps the waist belt level as it helps support the additional weight of the firearm or sword. In today’s dress uniforms, this is for aesthetics and clean lines of the dress tunic. In the 1930s LAPD, the daily uniform worn by officers would be basically the equivalent of today’s dress uniform.
That’s good to know! Thank you for sharing this, Jeff!
Dear Gentleman’s Gazette:
When speaking of menswear from the 1920s and 1930s, I would like to know, literally, where it has all gone? Where are the millions of pieces of garments that were produced before the second World War? Are they sitting in closets in thousands of houses all over the world, or did most of it become scrap before then? Is some of it in old thrift stores somewhere, or has it mostly just disappeared forever? Any thoughts? Why are some of the styles so rare to find, even online? Why do people nowadays look so damned unsophisticated compared to the styles of the 1930s? Has America almost forgotten its past history of being what was once a well dressed nation? When you “dress up” do most people think you’re from Mars? This is how bad things have become.