In today’s installment of our review series, Is It Worth It?, we take a look at Red Wing boots, which have long been a staple in American workwear. We’re now starting to see people wear them in more fashion-forward contexts, but in either application, are they worth the price?
History of Red Wing Shoe Company
Many people now recognize the over 100-year-old company as a family-owned business that was launched in 1905 in Red Wing, Minnesota. However, in 1873, prior to the inception of the Red Wing shoe company, Red Wing, Minnesota was known as one of the most efficient producers of wheat in the United States of America. Soon after, the discovery of natural clay beds in the area launched a healthy stoneware industry.
During the turn of the century, Red Wing, Minnesota was seeing massive success from its river port and businesses were springing up all over the place. European immigrants were creating factories and workshops all over the city.
At that time, Charles Beckman, who happened to be a shoe seller and a very wise businessman, would watch the carpenters and the blacksmiths walk throughout the city and noticed that they had ill-fitting boots and shoes on. He came up with the idea to have something that was specific to a certain job.
As Charles struck out to launch this new venture for shoes and boots that would fit people appropriately, he initially found that manufacturers were not willing to work with him. Thankfully, Charles didn’t have to wait forever. He was soon joined by other investors and they began launching the Red Wing shoe company in 1905.
By 1912, Red Wing shoe company was seeing massive success with its new style, the “Black and Brown Chief.” This boot was created using manure-proof leather to assist farmers while working on their land. This boot also carried the likeness of the legendary Dakota chief Red Wing on the sole of the boot as well.
Red Wing Shoes in WWI
During World War I, as the men who would have worked in the factory went to war, women entered the factory to help with the creation of boots. In particular, the 1088 Pershing boot was one that gained a lot of popularity. Red Wing shoe company continued to make the 1088 Pershing style until 1965.
Over the years, Red Wing shoe company has become known for more than just shoes or boots for wartime or marketed just to farmhands. In the ’60s and ’70s, there was an adoption of Red Wing shoes and boots by a much broader audience.
Recent Years
In more recent years, a partnership with a popular company J.Crew helped launch the Heritage Collection around 2007. It was advertised initially as being a collection that would bring together both the standard Red Wing boots along with a more modern aesthetic for a broader audience.
Today, we are seeing Red Wing boots appear in the classes of very fashion-forward individuals. Those who choose to wear the brand casually and opt to wear the more fashionable heritage collection are often branded as hipsters.
What has become one of the most iconic styles from the Red Wing Heritage Collection is their Classic 6-Inch Moc-Toe boot. Over the years as fashion rules have softened, we see that many more people are willing to shell out the $200+ for these popular boots.
The Red Wing shoe factory produces up to two million shoes each year and has seen over four generations of shoemakers. Red Wing boots doesn’t only design and manufacture shoes under its own brand! It also produces footwear under Irish Setter boots, Vasque, Carhartt (discontinued in 2011), and Worx brands. Some of these non-Red Wing brands include a variety of models that were manufactured in the People’s Republic of China.
A Tour of The Factory
The over 100-year-old factory is located at 315 Main Street in Red Wing, Minnesota. I can say from experience that the amount of history that it holds is incredible.
Many years ago, I had the privilege of going on a tour of the Red Wing Factory in Red Wing, Minnesota and I had an absolute blast. There’s so much history and passion behind this brand and I really enjoyed seeing how something that’s over 100 years old and located in a small town is helping people all over the world.
The tour lasted a number of hours but the people working there were extremely welcoming and I could tell that they were extremely passionate about what they were helping to create. My favorite part of the tour, and I had a few, included seeing the leather being dyed and the boots being stitched together with the soles.
How Red Wing Shoes Are Made
It takes a large team of dedicated people who have a critical eye to produce a high-quality boot from beginning to end. Many of the shoes are actually hand-stitched; this is done because much of the technology that’s available today does not stitch components of the shoes together to Red Wing’s standards.
It all begins with leather, in the beginning, Charles Beckman partnered with the SB Foot Tannery to get the best and most durable leather for the Red Wing shoe company. In 1986, Red Wing shoe company acquired that tannery.
To begin the construction process, first, the leather is tanned, stretched, and then rolled. Then, the leather is cut into patterns and then fitted. Another fun fact: the fitting department actually holds 30 different steps the leather has to go through before it’s able to be transferred to the next department.
The leather is then sent to the lasting department, this department holds over 30 different styles and hundreds of different sizes in which the boots and shoes can be made. From there, the footwear is sent to the bottoms department, this is where the soles are applied.
Finally, the footwear is sent to the finishing department. This is where each shoe and boot is reviewed, shoelaces and footbeds are added, and things are then prepared for distribution all over the world.
One of the best things about Red Wing boots is their soles. The lug sole was invented by Vibram. This hole provides a lot of traction. Meanwhile, Traction Tred is a non-marking outsole and one of the most iconic elements in Red Wing boots.
Our Chosen Styles – Iron Ranger 8111
This style was originally built for iron miners on the Minnesota Iron Range in the 1930s. Each pair of boots take on a personalized fit through to the cork midsoles and the leather insoles that form to the wearer’s feet. The style features a Goodyear welt, a steel shank, and a puritan triple stitch construction. Also, there are brass speed hooks for precise lacing.
This Iron Ranger style is made with a Vibram 430 mini lug sole. According to Red Wing, the Iron Ranger style should fit comfortably tight on your foot while still allowing for enough room for you to freely move your toes. The Iron Ranger style was built on the No. 8 last. This boot designed features a bump toe which allows you to freely move your toes. This style fits a variety of foot shapes and retails for $330.
Classic 6-Inch Moc-Toe
The classic moc-toe has gained a lot of popularity over the years in part because of the Goodyear construction and also, the contrasting sole with Traction Tred. This boot was created using Red Wing’s No. 23 last. This was developed in the 1950s and is arguably one of the most popular last styles.
The style provides extra room in the forefoot and instep to be able to fit a wide variety of foot shapes. It is sold by Red Wing in eight different color options, and Red Wing actually recommends that you size down ½ to 1 full size when making your selections.
Both the Iron Ranger style and the Classic Moc-Toe are available in sizes 7 through 14 and widths D and double E, but please be advised that not every style and color combination is available in every size.
Depending on the color and/or leather style you choose in your purchase, it will determine whether or not you’re going to need a leather protector and/or leather oil to maintain the appearance of your boots.
Many of Red Wing’s boot styles are known for their work functionality. The authentic work boots from Red Wing that are used by construction workers and others are specifically designed to withstand moisture, paint spills, mud, and some styles even have the ever-popular steel toe installation to protect your toes from being crushed while on the job.
Red Wing Shoe Experience
A number of years ago while I worked for Brooks Brothers, we temporarily sold shoes and boots out of the Red Wing Heritage Collection. At that time, I was offered a sizable discount and I decided to purchase two pairs of boots. The amber-colored Iron Ranger and the light brown 6-inch Classic Moc-Toe.
Out of the box, I distinctly remember noticing the quality and the craftsmanship of the boots. The clean precision mixed with the handmade details was fantastic and the scent of the leather reminded me of the long history of this great brand.
Break-In Period
From the beginning, I was told to make sure that I took time to break in the boots. I thought I was well aware of the process of breaking in shoes as I had been through this process with other footwear purchases. In the end, I found myself wishing that I had taken much more time for this break-in period. I decided to wear my brand new boots to work all day long and I immediately regretted that footwear choice. Over time, my feet got used to the boots, the leather softened, and they have since become some of my favorite boots to wear.
Laces
Personally, one of the main aspects of the boots I didn’t really enjoy was the laces. The boots arrived with a leather lace option as well as a traditional braided style. I found that the boots felt tighter and much more secure on my feet when I used that braided style. By after nearly 10 years of pulling and tightening, the laces have started to look much more weathered, however, I understand this is nothing really to complain about. Other than that, I had no major issues except the laces, that’s pretty fantastic!
Other Notes
As the boots have aged, the weathered look has started to work even better with my personal style. In the future, I’m planning on purchasing the taller 8-inch version of the moc-toe boot, as well as the Muleskinner Iron Ranger.
These boots have never had any major quality issues, no tears in the leather, nothing wrong with the soles at all. In nearly 10 years of wearing these boots, the main issues stem from my neglect and not caring properly for the leather and also, wearing the soles down so much and forgetting to have them resoled.
10-Year-Old vs New Pair
For the sake of comparison, we actually have a brand new pair of Iron Rangers similar to the ones that I brought in today. These happen to be fresh out of the box and comparing this brand new pair to my nearly 10 year-old pair, the first thing I’m noticing is how sturdy these boots are–and I’m amazed at how much of that sturdiness is still represented in my older pair. The attention to detail is immediately noticeable and things like the stitching, the sole trimming around the perimeter of the boot, and the distinctive coloration in the toe which blends darker in the further back into the top of the boot.
If you look closely, you can see minor fractures in the leather color, as well as stray leather from the raw edges. These subtle details add a human element which further enhanced the character of the boots over time.
The pliable leather upper has a unique coloration and the color seems to even shift as the leather is being bent. The leather upper also hold on the interior and stitch tag referencing the branding, the style name, and the fact that it was made in the USA. In this particular tag, we see that this is style 8085. The oil resisting Vibram sole is securely stitched and offers a great deal of traction.
As I previously mentioned, there are a handful of things that they could have done differently to further extend the longevity of my two pairs of boots. During my visit to the factory, I was given specific information on how to best care for my boots. Unfortunately, I did not listen! To return my boots to their former appearance and any capacity, I will be sending them back to Red Wing to be cleaned and in the case of my Iron Rangers, to be resoled. Needless to say, I have certainly learned my lesson and I will definitely take better care of my future pair.
Leather Care & Maintenance
On that note, there are a number of things to think about when it comes to leather. Each type of leather may require a different type of cloth, brush, or oil. For example, Red Wing recommends that their all-natural boot oil be used on their Iron Ranger. At the same time, any product designed to help you care for calfskin leather would also work well.
While we’re on the subject of care, Red Wing shoe company also offers repair services. For $125, you can have the boots resoled, replace the welting, recondition the uppers, and receive a full-size container of leather conditioner. You can also pay for a la carte repairs, as well.
Other Boot Options
Before we reach our final verdict and whether or not Red Wing boots are worth it or not, let’s take a look at some similar options that are also in the same category.
- Wolverine
- They offer a similar style to Red Wing’s classic moc-toe, their men’s 6-inch Loaders, which they sell for $105.
- Timberland
- They offer their classic 6-inch waterproof style for $198.
- Chippewa
- Chippewa offers a variety of styles many of which are sold for about $280 or less.
- Wesco
- On the more expensive end of the similar, the brand Wesco offers subtle different customizations you can make to your boots, but many of the boots start out at about $599.
The Verdict
As is often the case in this series, whether or not Red Wing boots are worth it for you, really depends on how you’d like to wear them. If you’re looking for a heavy-duty boot that could withstand and run through say, Jurassic Park, Red Wing actually does make boots that are designed for people who work outdoors.
As there are many different options available from brands that are also made in the USA, some family-owned and some bigger than others at varying price points, it’s easy to see why some people prefer one brand over another. But if you are more fashion-focused individual and you enjoy the offerings of the Heritage Collection, you probably aren’t planning to wear your boots outdoors hiking or at a construction site.
It would be great if Red Wing offered its boots at a lower price point but we need to remember where Red Wing is making its boots, here in the USA. Production costs here in the USA happen to be much higher than they would be overseas. As previously mentioned, elsewhere, the costs of calfskin leather are rising globally and often, manufacturers have to make up this cost in their retail pricing. After visiting the factory myself and seeing the time and care that is poured into this product, I can understand why the price point is such.
Overall, I have found that through my nearly 10 years of ownership of Red Wing boots that they are worth it. These boots are worth the investment due to their quality construction, durability, and versatility to be worn with many things throughout the year.
Outfit Rundown
I’m wearing a navy blue v-neck wool sweater from J.Crew. Underneath, I have a light red and white candy stripe sports shirt which I picked up from Brooks Brothers. I’m pairing that with a dark wash slim fit denim also from J.Crew, and then tying it all off with one of my favorite pair of boots, my classic six-inch moc-toe from Red Wing.
If you’d like to spice up your look a little bit, we’ve got some great options at the Fort Belvedere shop offering you great boot and shoelace styles.
One must follow the whole series to understand the subtle irony. Sven was very condescending in “Business Dinner Etiquette” to the man who had arrived direct from the construction site in boots and hard hat and now makes amends by instructing Kyle to urge us all to wear boots and hard hat
Kyle’s opinions are very different from Raphael’s or Prestons. I am certain the video would have turned out slightly differently if Raphael or Preston would have filmed it.
However, Kyle is actually the one who has bought Redwing boots with his money years ago. I have a pair of Thoroughgood work boots, and Preston has had no exposure, so Kyle was the best person on the team to handle that one.
Please change the name of the series to “Are They Worth It” as a sign of your respect for the English Language.
Well, we want a consistent title and when we review a trenchcoat of a fountain pen, are they worth it is incorrect.
The name of our series is and remains Is It Worth It?
But not all your boots are assembled in USA.why don’t you tell that.so really your costs is lower and your profit is higher.not all Goodyear welted 360 right?tell the truth
Dear Hal, none of them are our boots. Would you please share with us, which models you believe to be not made in the USA?
Red w wing r the boots we r talking.r there worth it.only 60% r made in the usa
I’ve been wearing Red Wing boots for for my job in construction for 25 years. They are the best boots for the job site that are out there. In those years the quality of Red Wings has been lowered due to some styles of boot being made in China. The prices of the boots depend on where they are made , the most expensive being made in the U.S.A. They do have boots that do not stand up to Red Wing tradition of quality but you won’t pay more than $150/200 for those and let me tell you after wearing the cheap ones for 10 hours a day on a construction site your feet will know the difference. Go the extra mile and spring for the boots made in the U.S.A., your feet will thank you.
Kyles’s advice is dead on. Just bought a pair of Iron Ranger boots about a month ago. One of the most comfortable boots I’ve ever purchased despite the stiff new leather. They will be even more comfortable over time. Ignore the silly comments. If you need new boots, go out and get yourself a pair of Red Wings.
I own 2 pair of Red Wings. They are indeed worth every penny. The adage, “a one hundred dollar pair of shoes will last for a season or two whereas a three hundred dollar pair will last forever ” applies to leather boots as well. I’ve owned dozens of pairs in the sub $200 category that have fallen apart in one year or less.
I have a pair of 1907 Mocs. I love them. The Rough & Tough leather is great. Properly conditioned it handles rain and snow very well and develops patina with wear.
As a Brit I love the American heritage of these boots. They are very comfortable once broken in.
The negatives are the Traction Tred sole is not robust: the heels on mine have worn down. The RW website contains loads of negative comments from disappointed owners But they can be repaired. Also Trac soles are not brilliant on ice…but what is?
So not cheap, expensive to repair but great to wear and easy on the eye.
I can offer a review of Red Wing boots as actual working boots, rather than casual wear. I spent 15 years as a Union Ironworker and have worn this brand along with a number of others. Many Ironworkers will only buy Red Wings, particularly the 6 or 8 inch Moc-toe with a crepe, wedge heel. A flat heel is needed to safely walk the iron. Many consider the Red Wing to be the “Cadillac” of boots. Though many others feel they are overpriced and refuse to buy them.
My experience with them didn’t justify the price. I found them to be very hard to break in and my Achilles’ tendons suffered from significant “hot spots”, and they wore down as fast as other boots on the job site.
My preference for boots is to purchase from a company that should be mentioned here called Thorogood. Their prices are much more reasonable and I can normally purchase a pair for $180 to $200. Only a few styles of Red Wings are still made in the USA, and most are made in China today. But Thorogoods are not only made in the USA, but are union made as well. I find them to have a much shorter break in time and are more comfortable on my feet.
In the end, as far as fit goes, it’s certainly a personal preference as everyone’s feet Are unique and you should definitely try on different pairs and styles to see what fit best, even among the same brand.
In regards to style, Red Wings probably have the widest selection to choose from, and certainly have a number of handsome styles to choose from.
Best of luck to all.
I have a pair of Thoroughgood and I mentioned them in the comments ;). Hard to compare for me though as I have never owned a pair of Red Wing…
I work in industrial construction aswell. I own Redwings and they certainly are a very comfortable, high quality boot.Thorogood is USA made,longer lasting and also a beautiful looking boot.
You need to seriously bring back the swade red wing pull on boot as there is nothing in its class really and iam on my last pair please Australia will be very grateful as well as all us truck drivers there is no better boot
I found the video to be most enjoyable and informative. I can’t imagine how anyone could find it otherwise. I’ve had a few pair of Red Wing boots and shoes over the years. Incredibly durable. This video prompted me to visit their website, and I’m quite sure I found my next pair of oxford work shoes. I continue to be amazed at the value of Gentleman’s Gazette. Thank you.
We appreciate your kind words, Steve. :)
I’ve purchased two pairs of red wing work boots.Both were in excess of 250$ with insoles made by outsole. The bottoms on both pair rotted off . Red Ring agreed to repair rd bottoms for one hundred dollars. I will not buy another pair.
I purchased a pair of 6-inch work boots, and one reason was the souls on boots could be redone.
I wore them out a little bit and went to get the soles redone.a week later they called me up and said to come in and pick up shoes and that they could not redo the soles.(said that it would not fit into the machine/mold to redo them). I was very upset.
However the manager let me buy a brand new pair and gave me half off price. (I did have a local shoe repair shop put on new soles of first pair that I purchased) why couldn’t red wing do that for me????? It was the first time I ever bought a pair of work boots costing almost $300
I was very upset.
saddened by the negativity of some of these personal attacks on the GG staff
… keep your head up Sven- there will always be a cohort who can’t understand the possibility that a Gentleman is perfectly capable of doing his share of the dirty work, boots and all
saddened by the negativity of some of these personal attacks on the GG staff
… keep your head up Sven- there will always be a cohort who can’t understand the possibility that a gentleman is perfectly capable of doing his share of the dirty work, boots and all
I’ve been wearing Redwing boots for 45years, I will not wear any other boot to work. I’m a machinist and on my feet 8 to 10 hours a day. Redwing super sole is the best long life and so comfortable that if you let Redwing fit you they need virtually zero break in. Buy them on Saturday wear them to work on Monday. All hail Redwing. They are worth every penny.
Greetings,
Red Wings, as well as Oregon-made Danner Boots are well worth the price.
I also agree that Gentleman’s Gazette is entitled to increase its purview to include more fashion statements than it did in its earlier incarnations.
Best regards,
Andrew Gregg,
Socially Distant in Palm Springs, CA.
Thank you for the support, Andrew. :)
I own a pair of Red Wing boots although personally I have a soft spot for the all-English made Solovair/NPS range. For those into the Doc Martens side of things, check them out. They are what DMs used to be… as they used to make them.
A series on whether they are worth it would be kindly appreciated.
Now, my Red Wings are more of the Chukka or Desert Boots style so not as hard-wearing as the two most iconic styles mentioned above. Are they worth it? Is the workmanship really so good? Yes, it definitely is – but I would like to point out that you have to be on your toes, literally. It has already been pointed out – not all Red Wing products these days are US-made. I never owned a pair of those made elsewhere, so it would be unfair and predjudiced to comment – however, I think that a working man’s boot should be made under fair conditions by people who know and love the work they do. If that is the case wherever the boots are made, brilliant.
Now, how do I wear my Red Wings? Well, usually for a day at work, being a school teacher I don’t need steel toes, but we do more walking than many people would think, so comfortable footwear is essential. The boots don’t disppoint, albeit breaking in takes a little while. But that is true for most leather boots and shoes and it is a fact unlearned by the sneaker generation… so a lot of reviews on how uncomfortable these boots are, comes from people who at best wore Chuck Taylors as their standard of comparison, not to mention those more modern ultry-soft things that are somewhere between a shoe and a sock.
Could you go for a walking tour in them? Erm, not sure. I would definitely rather consider a pair of Solovairs for the job, but walking your doggie in the park is no problem at all, and a nicely broken in pair will help you stay comfy on a city tour as well.
worked in a steel mill 40 yrs.i bought a pair of Rid Wing boots and loved them.as a steelworker we always try to buy made in the USA.i had these boots resoled so many times i lost count.Unyil my cobbler said he just couldn’t repair them. anymore.i would not hesitate to buy another pair.
Red Wing boots are worth every penny and can be worn for any occasion. Enough said
I just bought my first pair of Irish setters for $170 probably the worst pair of boots I’ve ever purchased.
Go to a Redwing store. They will help with repairs, resoles, toe-capping for work boots, and other services. This article seemed to be geared more toward casual boots rather than heavy-duty footwear.
Personally, I have a pair of Kenetrek mountain extreme boots for hiking and outdoor fun that are very comfortable. There’s no comparison between them and a pair of work boots. My work boots are protective toe (composite) Danners. They are comfortable, functional, and are holding up well to the rigors of outdoor work. I typically go through two pairs of heavy duty work boots a year – as in completely destroyed.
I don’t wear any of them for casual dress.
I have a less than flattering review for my Red WIng Boots. Bought new in 2016 for $200, Steel Toe, Vibram sole, Looks similar to Hiking boot. Wore 4-6 times a year, kept the boots inside, look brand new. Going to the hardware store, and the entire sole came off, looked like it was disintegrated inside. Contacted RedWing and they said the shoes need to worn constantly to keep the sole from rotting and it was not a defect. I even sent pictures and product back to them.. I asked them where this was stated and they had no answer. Horrible customer support and failure to stand behind the product. Will never again purchase a product from this company.
As a union electrician for 25 years I’ve worn many types and styles of boots. In my experience you get what you pay for most of the time. In recent years I hear more and more bad things about Red Wings, at any price point that you wouldn’t hear from the old timers. I personally experienced that the more expensive the boot the better feeling and longer lasting they are. I’ve heard some really bad things about them and some guys swear by them, I do not have a horrible relationship with Red Wings but maybe I’ve been lucky. I will continue to buy them and actually in the market for a new pair very soon but because of the lock down the local Red Wing store is closed until the foreseeable future. I will not buy a pair of boots online. If I’m going to spend $300 on a pair of boots you know I have to try them on.