Semi-Formal Dress Code, Defined: What It Is & How to Wear It

While the formality scale of dressing is typically very clear, there are definitely some outliers. There are certainly some overlaps and rules that are difficult to keep straight, and the semi-formal one certainly is one of these, and we’ll define what it is in this guide.

The semi-formal dress code is also referred to as “Half Dress” because in Latin, “semi” means half. Semi-formal falls just below Black Tie Optional and above Cocktail Attire on the formality scale. And unlike other types of dress codes, which are more easily defined by the garments that go with them, semi-formal can actually be a little bit more difficult to define versus other more concrete dress codes.

This is the same dress code that has the same dignity and formality as higher levels of dress but with a little bit more of the laxity of lower levels of dress. Basically, it’s like business attire and cocktail attire with a more formal error, and it’s without the strict rules of evening wear. So what caused semi-formal to have this sort of amorphous lack of style standards? Let’s examine its history in order to find out further. 

History of the Semi-Formal Dress Code

When rules of classic style were being formulated in the early 19th century, the higher levels of dress were very clearly fleshed out, and the standards of formal attire were also very strict. On formal day occasions, one was expected to wear morning wear, and an informal evening occasions, White Tie.

During the close of that century, a new level of formality came out, which was designed for exclusivity and high-end but also with a more casual nature of a private event. But since it was still relatively formal it was called semi-formal attire. This consisted of a stroller or really well-put-together suits during the daytime and Black Tie during the evening.

At one point in time, tuxedos were seen as casual. Men’s style manuals from the 1890s made it very clear that when we look back in history, oftentimes, a dinner jacket or odd formal jacket was too informal or casual for evening events.

According to the 1896 handbook The Complete Bachelor: Manners For Men, the dinner coat is the badge of informality. It is in vogue during the summer at hotel hops, small informal parties, to the play, at bowling parties, restaurant dinners, and in fact, any occasion not formal. And as men began to abandon White Tie, we will see that men started to wear tuxedos for all of their evening events.

In the 1922 edition of Emily Post’s Etiquette Guide, she notes that the tuxedo is worn every evening and nearly everywhere, whereas the tailcoat is necessarily only balls, formal dinners, and in a box at the Opera. So Black Tie, which used to be considered semi-formal, moved its way up the formality scale.

The semi-formal category was able to drop down the formality scale. It now sits in sort of an interesting space. It’s now in the space that occupies Business Formal and Black Tie Optional. And there’s a surprising degree of overlap between the two. Although it can potentially be more formal than the former and less formal than the latter, both the history and the practical function of this dress code is what makes it so confusing.

Why Semi-Formal Is Such a Confusing Dress Code

So as dress codes are becoming less strict and less defined and, in many ways, are actually dying, it becomes more confusing as to what formal actually means. While classic style devotees recognize formal as being Morning Wear, White Tie, or Black Tie, for the masses, formal can mean just wearing a suit. And this is because every other aspect of their wardrobe is so casual.

Therefore, if semi-formal is more attached to formal and everybody has their own definition of formal, then results can vary wildly. In the end, semi-formal can really take up any space between formal and casual wear. Also, some people take the meaning of semi as more casual, and you can assume that semi-formal means more formal casual attire. This is comparable to smart casual. Finally, you could think that semi-formal means half formal, half casual.

So, suffice it to say having undergone a massive sartorial shift after the elevation of Black Tie from semi-formal to formal and its somewhat confusing language, it’s no surprise that the semi-formal dress code is so hard to nail down nowadays. Despite all of this confusion, modern society has been able to somewhat define and nail down what semi-formal attire means today. 

​​What Semi-Formal Wear Means Today 

Although this definition is a little rough around the edges and it can also be taken with extreme subjectivity. In its broadest sense, semi-formal can mean dressing up in a meaningful way. This can mean with some type of suit without straying into the world of formal wear. Obviously, this covers a wide swath of territory. This can cover a more formal end-of-business casual all the way up to a really nice business suit and not wearing a tuxedo.

Within the realm of classic style, this definition is a lot more precise. This would consist of a dark suit, a white shirt, leather dress shoes, tasteful neckwear, and elegant, unobtrusive accessories. But the fact of the matter is, this definition can often be too formal for a lot of today’s semi-formal gatherings.

The Essential Components of a Semi-Formal Outfit

A lot of today’s semi-formal gatherings might have a more casual twist on a formal element. This can mean light and bright colored suits, combinations with sport coats and trousers and even more casual wear. It can also include the absence of neckwear.

You are especially likely to encounter this relaxed part of semi-formal with events that have a more casual and celebratory nature. And it might also feature more bold and creative styling elements. We might call this look Festive Semi-formal. This is something that you might often see at weddings where guests are still expected to dress up but also have a little bit of fun and have creativity with their accessories and various pieces of their ensembles.

Because the classic definition of semi-formal typically leans a little bit more traditional, you really have to take note of what the host says in their invitation regarding the dress code for their event. If the event seems to be more casual then feel free to pick out pieces that would go with a more casual wardrobe. You should, at the very least, stay to the more formal end of business casual. And in doing so, chances are you’re going to be one of the best-dressed and most dressed-up people in the room.

Even within classic style, the time of day will greatly impact the formality of semi-formal. In general, daytime events tend to be more casual and fun festive occasions lend themselves to brighter color palettes and more casual details. This allows brighter palettes, more fun and bold accessories, and more panache overall. To really cover all the basics when going to a wedding as a guest, check out our other guide on that subject.

So, let’s take a look at what makes up a semi-formal ensemble from a classic style standpoint. 

Ideally, it consists of a suit.

Ideally, you should wear a single-breasted or double-breasted suit with dark gray, navy, or dark blue appropriate for the evening. Brown, medium-gray, and lighter shades of blue are perfect for daytime events. As an alternative to solids, you can also mix in some appropriate patterns.

If you opt to wear a waistcoat, it should match your suit, or maybe go with one in a buff color. For a daytime event, you could wear a darker odd jacket and trousers as long as the combination remains on the more somber end of the spectrum. But remember that this will be on the less formal end of the semi-formal.

Your shoes should be lace-up leather shoes.

You should always wear a leather lace-up dress shoe, whether it’s a derby or preferably an Oxford. More formal footwear should be chosen for the evening, with more casual options for the daytime. And if you’re a little bit confused about the formality of these shoes, you can check out our guides on them. But I’ll say this now; black should be used in the evening, brown during the daytime.

Your shirt should be solid-colored.

Your dress shirt should be solid in color, but you can add a little bit of visual interest with a textured weave such as a two-tone or pinpoint Oxford, twill, chambray, herringbone, or jacquard. White shirts should be worn in the evening, with blue being perfectly appropriate for the daytime. Keep in mind that you want to stay on the lighter side of blue shirts. Don’t wear any dark blue or royal blue or navy blue shirts. You can also wear thinly striped shirts for daytime events but keep in mind that it will make your outfit look more casual.

Neckwear may or may not be worn.

Neckwear is not always necessary for modern interpretations of semi-formal but from a classic style standpoint, it is essential. Fortunately, you will be able to choose from a wide array of different neckties. Just make sure that it has a classic color palette and a classic pattern. If you want to know more about some ties that you should own, we’ve got a post to help you start a robust collection.

Bow ties can also be worn as part of a daytime semi-formal ensemble, but bow ties are typically too casual for evening events. When it comes to your accessories the semi-formal dress code allows you a little bit of latitude, and these accessories are great for adding your own personality to your outfit.

Well-thought-of accessories boost your look.

When selecting a pocket square, anything that harmonizes with your necktie will look great.

And if you’re you’re wearing a French cuff shirt, you will obviously need cufflinks. Raphael can help you find the perfect pair in our guide to cufflinks.

On certain occasions, a boutonniere can really liven things up. Now, you can wear formal socks to an evening event. We would also recommend that you choose more colorful options for daytime.

Finally, if you want to wear a wristwatch, I would highly recommend that you pick one on the more dressy end of the spectrum.

What Semi-Formal is Not

First up is, any garment that is explicitly formal wear, like a dinner jacket or morning coat, white or black bow tie, formal waistcoat, cummerbund, formal evening shirt or formal trousers with a gallon stripe. These should all be avoided. I mean, after all, this is semi-formal, not formal attire.

On the flip side, formal is still in the name. So avoid any garments that are explicitly casual such as short sleeve or collarless shirts like a polo shirt or Henley, non-dress pants, casual shoes like loafers or sneakers, jeans, bright-colored dress shirts, excessively bold or vibrant accessories and light-colored suits, although it might be okay to wear a light colored suit if you’re in a warm weather festive activity.

So as you can probably tell from the constant repetition here, the most common place where you will experience and be asked to wear semi-formal attire is at a wedding. But there are times when it could also appear in other social events like anniversaries, birthdays, retirement parties, and receptions. But it can also appear in professional events like networking events and after-hours social gatherings.

Semi-formal can also appear at public events like charity raffles, commemorations, or grand openings of a new store. And White Tie at the Opera might have been the thing back in the day, but things have certainly changed since then.

Examples of Semi-Formal Attire

1. Kyle

So in the first outfit, Kyle keeps things grounded with a double-breasted suit, dark shoes and a white shirt. However, he does have a pinstripe on his double-breasted suit, which provides a little bit of visual interest. And the peach tie adds a fun pop of color. This would be great for a daytime semi-formal event.

2. Preston

Preston follows Kyle, using neckwear to add a splash of color, although he’s going for a much deeper and richer color of red. He’s also wearing a charming boutonniere and has his pocket square folded in a fanciful matter. This is a nice outfit because it could work not only in the daytime but on the more formal end or on the more casual end for an evening event.

3. Raphael

Finally, Raphael, as he often does, shows us off the most formal evening semi-formal look. He pairs a dark suit with a white shirt, a pair of black shoes, and a white pocket square. His tie is also dark in color, and you’ll note that his pocket square also has a very simple fold. This look is perfect for more formal evening semi-formal events, but it might be a little bit too somber for a daytime occasion.

These examples highlight that when you’re dressing in this type of dress code, accessories really matter. Just changing up a few accessories can rapidly transition it from a daytime semi-formal to a nighttime semi-formal look.

Quick Tips for Mastering Semi-Formal

When in doubt, go more formal without being too formal. So unless you know that your host is expecting the more casual end of semi-formal, it’s always best to go a little bit overdressed. Just make sure that you don’t go too formal and drift into formal wear.

Emphasize quality materials and patterns over flashy colors. Many online guides say that semi-formal attire is the place to throw out your latest bold look, but we disagree, especially at weddings. But this over-the-top flashiness is not something that we would recommend as a part of classic style, and it really doesn’t jive with the overall formal look of semi-formal attire. Instead, go with luxurious materials and elegant patterns to really make your outfit look great. This way, you can craft ensembles that are easily memorable, and we mean memorable in a good way.

Make sure to wear a necktie, especially during daytime and nighttime events. You might hear that neckties are optional, but in the realm of classic style, you should wear a necktie.

Use accessories to add personality to your looks. Ties, boutonnieres, and pocket squares are a great way to add personality without compromising on formality. And if you want to take a look at some of our Fort Belvedere lookbooks for some combinations, that would be great for a variety of semi-formal events. 

If you’re a guest at a wedding, don’t draw undue attention. This isn’t the time to overshadow the happy couple wearing a tuxedo when everyone else is in suits. Avoid anything that’s overly formal, overly casual, and way too loud because this will make you the center of attention on someone else’s special day. And that really isn’t gentlemanly.

Conclusion

As we try to illustrate today, semi-formal can be really ambiguous and tough to nail down but with the knowledge that we’ve given you today, I’m confident that you’re able to nail any semi-formal event. That being said, if you’re hosting events in the near future, maybe decide to choose a more concrete dress code to make it easier for everyone. Or don’t and send people to this guide.

Outfit Rundown

Today, I am wearing what would not be considered a semi-formal combination. This would be on the more business casual side of the spectrum. I’m wearing a bright blue micro houndstooth sports jacket, which was made to measure by Beckett and Rob. My shirt is a long sleeve jersey polo shirt, made to measure by Proper Cloth.

I’m wearing a pair of tan LL Bean chinos with my well-worn and well-loved brown belt from Allen Edmonds. My shoes are a pair of brown travel loafers from Yanko and Skolics. On my wrist is an Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra with a brown calf strap that’s a prototype for Fort Belvedere. 

My scent today is the Azzuro by Roberto Ugolini. This is a light and fresh summertime scent, which is why I’m wearing it in the warm weather months.

My pocket square is this orange with a green and purple large paisley pocket square from Fort Belvedere. If you want to pick up a summertime pocket square or any other accessories, maybe some silk socks for an upcoming wedding, check out the Fort Belvedere shop.