Have you ever wondered how some people can wear a suit when it’s stifling hot outside? Well, not all suits are created equal and some have a lot more airflow and a lot cooler than others. Why is that? You may wonder. Actually, there are a number of factors and we break it down below.
Most importantly, there’s the fabric and the interlining. If you have a jacket with a glued interlining, it will insulate you much more, it will not breathe and as a consequence, you will overheat much more quickly. Also, the kind of material, the weave, as well as the weight, all have an impact on how cool or warm it feels.
Ideal Summer Fabrics
Seersucker
It’s an all-time American classic and it usually comes in a stripe of white and blue. It’s a very fine stripe and it’s very popular in the southern United States and it’s made from a twisted yarn. It’s a very fine highly twisted cotton yarn that creates a puckering effect in the cloth. In a nutshell, that crinkle effect is achieved by tightening certain warped yarns more than others. The crinkle is permanent and can’t be ironed out but as a consequence, it doesn’t wrinkle otherwise, so it’s very wrinkle resistant which makes it also a great travel suit, it’s perfect for garden parties, summer weddings or just hot days when you’re in the southern US.
I really enjoy the classic blue and white seersucker because you can combine it very easily; you can just have the seersucker pants combined with a blazer or just the seersucker jacket combined with different pants. It enhances your wardrobe, it’s a very lightweight material. I also like seersuckers in other colors such as a white and beige stripe which is nice for summers because it’s a very light color so it reflects the sunlight and doesn’t absorb it. If you’re looking for more of a business suit, you can also get seersucker that is basically a solid navy which is a very nice alternative. Unfortunately, it’s something you usually have to get custom-made because it’s often not readily available off the rack unless maybe you find it at places like Polo Ralph Lauren or other who specialize in summer suits. Even when you don’t wear a suit, you can wear your seersuckers with a polo shirt or just a dress shirt and it’s overall, a very versatile summer staple.
Fresco
It’s a term coined by Minnis which is a British Weaver and they have them in their lineup. They have many different colors typically summer colors in lighter weights and heavier weights. At first, it may seem contradictory that wool can be an ideal fabric for summer but in fact, if the weave is right and with a fresco, you get a weave that’s also a higher twisted yarn which means it doesn’t wrinkle very easily. Wool doesn’t wrinkle easily, to begin with, but it also has a very open weave, because of that, you usually find it in strong colors, not just solids but mottled colors because they help camouflage the fact that it’s a very open weave. The more open the weave, the more likely you are going to feel any kind of breeze and airflow.
When you hold it against a light source, you can clearly see through it and you can see the shadow through it and because of that, it’s very breathable. Because it’s a twisted worsted yarn, it’s not a soft fabric, it doesn’t have a cashmere-like feel and at first, if you touch it in a cloth book, you may be turned off by the cloth but don’t be fooled! This is a wonderful fabric for summer suits. Traditionally, fresco fabrics were heavier more in a 14 to 15-ounce range and the advantage was that they really hung nicely and draped beautifully. Today, the Huddersfield Weaver Minnis also offers much lighter options all the way down to 8 ounces which are not just lightweight but also open weave which makes for an ultimate summer suit.
Linen
It is derived from the flax plant and it can be made stiffer or softer. Typically, Irish linen is a little stiffer whereas Italian linen is rather soft. It naturally has a very long staple that is much longer than cotton rather natural fibers and because of that, it’s very resistant to abrasion. It also has extremely heavier wrinkles, and they create a very sophisticated unique look. They wrinkle differently than cotton does but I find that it looks very elegant and classy especially in a summer suit.
Let’s say probably the tobacco brown linen summer suit is a favorite when by many elegant men around the world. It naturally has a fresh and cool feel and sometimes the weave can be very tight and when it’s heavy, it can be actually quite insulating. It looks very summery but you can still feel quite warm. Because of that, I currently do not have a linen suit in my lineup, maybe I’ll add one in the future but at present, I don’t have one.
Cotton
Most of the time, it comes in lighter colors for summer such as khaki. Unfortunately, it often comes in very tight weaves just as twill or gabardine which doesn’t make it very breathable. It also wrinkles very easily but unlike linen, it just looks non-ironed whereas linen wrinkles look sophisticated. Because of that, I think cotton alone is best blended with linen, maybe silk, because that way, it has different properties, it doesn’t wrinkle as cheaply, it looks better, and most importantly, you can have a more open weave which is more advantageous to staying cool in the summer.
Tropical
The tropical is softer than a fresco but the weave is not as open. At the same time, it’s very lightweight and it’s specifically designed for warm weather. Sometimes you can also find it with the addition of mohair which is a little crisper, it adds more wrinkle resistance, it also adds a tiny bit of shine but at the same time, it feels cooler when you wear it. Of all the terms mentioned here, Off the rack suit manufacturers are most likely to go with lightweight worsted wool because it’s widely available, it’s relatively inexpensive, and it is mass-market approved.
How To Put Together A Great Summer Outfit
You Can Get Away With Bolder Colors
Because it’s the summer and everything is lighter, you can have brighter colors and get away with a green suit that otherwise you couldn’t wear in the winter. If you want a shade of navy or gray, intentionally opt for something lighter in color which underlines the summery character. Alternatively, you can opt for beiges, khakis, browns, these are all ideal summer colors. Of course, you can also go with patterns but instead of a Glen check in black and white, you maybe go with something in gray and white which just makes everything more lively and summery.
Opt For Single-Breasted
If you want the ultimate summer suit, go with a single-breasted silhouette because the dual layers of fabrics will make you wear much warmer. Stylistically, some people prefer patch pockets because they’re more casual but keep in mind, it’s an extra layer of fabric which is why having jetted or flap pockets is just fine. On the inside of your suit, you can go with a half-lined jacket which means the back is not lined at all thus allowing more air to flow through and reach your skin. You also want to stay clear of a glued canvas and instead, go with a sewn interlining. When I traveled to Naples where it gets quite hot, I saw tailors creating suit jackets and pants that were completely unlined. Now while that maximizes the airflow especially on your shirt sleeve, it will likely catch and the line won’t be as smooth as if you keep your sleeves lined, maybe the shoulder, you just leave the back unlined. Now, of course, the suit is only one part of your summer outfit.
Pair It With An Open Weave Shirt
Ideally, you pair it with a very open weave or a very lightweight cotton shirt. That way, you don’t overheat so quickly. Some people have issues with sweat stains on their suit and in that case, you can wear an undershirt underneath your shirt which doesn’t make you cooler but it absorbs the sweat and keeps you from embarrassing moments, however, if you want to stay cool, skip the undershirt. Also, make sure you have button cuffs also known as barrel cuffs and I personally like to wear them unbuttoned because having an extra airflow under my wrists makes me feel cooler.
Elevate Your Outfit With A Bow Tie
Because you’re wearing a suit, the overall outfit is much better with some form of neckwear but instead of wearing a regular necktie that covers the middle part of your torso, a bow tie wears a lot cooler because it just covers your neck. If you want to go with a tie, maybe invest in a lightweight knit tie which has a very open knit and therefore, a better airflow.
Go For Spectator Shoes
In terms of shoes, you can underline the summery character and either get spectators, maybe some perforated shoes that allow more air flow.
Stand Out In Accessories
Even if you decide not to go with any form of neckwear, I always suggest having a pocket square because it immediately upgrades the overall appearance of your suit. Because it’s summer, it’s also fun to add a boutonniere lapel flower to your outfit. The problem is in the summer, those flowers wilt extremely quickly in your lapel and just look bad. Because of that, I designed my own boutonnieres that stay fresh all the time and look like the real deal. To complete your look, a Panama hat is a great choice.
Don’t Forget The Socks
When it comes to socks, a gentleman always has over the calf socks, however, if that’s too hot for you, you can also try to go with no-show socks. The problem with most of them is that over the course of the day, they come off your feet and if you have leather-lined shoes, it becomes rather uncomfortable. Either go with over the calf socks that stay up and make your feet feel comfortable or opt for no-show socks that don’t come off your feet.
CONCLUSION
At the end of the day, a good summer suit will only wear ever so slightly hotter than a polo shirt or a t-shirt but it’s a lot more stylish and elegant. You just have to choose the right one, make sure they have the right fabric with the proper interlining in a single-breasted silhouette and you’ll be on your way.
Sven, the most “put together” guy in all of the pictures is you! Bravissimo!
When I was young, I once saw an older gentleman standing on Fifth Avenue, outside the Pierre hotel, at the entrance to Central Park in high summer, looking cool and elegant in a charcoal grey suit – almost black really, a blindingly white shirt and crimson knit tie. It was midday and broiling hot out, but he seemed unruffled as the rest of humanity was melting. As he turned, his pants leg caught the light and I could see light right through the fabric. Was this “Fresco”? The suit looked crisp, with no wrinkles or sagging, as if impervious to the heat and humidity. The trousers held their crease perfectly. This was over 40 years ago and I remember it as if it were yesterday. That same outfit could appear on the Avenue today and still be perfectly appropriate and handsome.
You didn’t mention that you can also get worsted wool in a lighter weight such as 250 gsm.
Merino wool socks for summer. I have never had a problem in our hot summer climate of New Zealand wearing Merino socks with leather shoes.
Great job, Sven. I have a light khaki suit that I wear with a white shirt, paisley bow tie and brown/white spectators. Simple outfit that seems to always generate compliments and that stays cool in all but the most-broiling weather.
Thank you for sharing, Ray!