Is the dressing gown really just the “old-school equivalent of sweatpants”? We put that theory to the test at Vienna’s Zum Jockey Club, commissioning a custom velvet piece that elevates home life to an art form.
Inside Zum Jockey Club: A Viennese Treasure
A Hidden Gem of Haberdashery
Raphael visits Zum Jockey Club, a small but elegant haberdashery in Vienna’s 1st District that feels like a step back in time. The shop features its original mahogany furniture from 1913, creating a perfect atmosphere for traditional craftsmanship.
Unlike a standard retail store, owner Mr. Robert Ruzicka is a Schneidermeister (Master Tailor), meaning the shop has its own on-site workshop capable of creating bespoke garments and performing expert alterations.
Explore the World of Zum Jockey Club
The Bespoke Commission Process
Raphael takes us through the entire process of commissioning a custom dressing gown, which he describes as the “elegant, old-school equivalent of sweatpants and a hoodie.” You’ll see how accurate measurements are taken and how Raphael customizes his piece to honor his heritage. He selects a heavy green cotton velvet with navy quilted accents and yellow piping—a nod to the colors of the Brazilian flag and his father’s roots.
Highlights from this Video
“This is not the time to be vain. This is the time to be honest.”
A crucial lesson in bespoke measurements. Sven notes that you must stand naturally and never “suck it in” if you want a garment that is actually comfortable.
“What are the most popular fabrics, you'd say?”
With so many options available—from heavy cotton velvets to lightweight silks—what do most gentlemen actually choose for their dressing gowns? Watch to find out Mr. Ruzicka’s answer.
“It comes a little bit from the Hungarian area…. It's a frog closure.”
Exploring the unique closure options available at a Viennese atelier. Mr. Ruzicka shows the traditional “frog” (or posamentrie) toggle, perfect for heavy velvet garments.
“I love how the way the light breaks in the velvet.”
The reveal. Sven tries on the finished piece and admires how the cotton velvet catches the light, proving that a custom garment is worth the wait.
“Some gentlemen still like to have [to] be correct in the morning. And it looks nice and it’s comfortable. It’s kind of home wear.”
Mr. Robert Ruzicka, Owner & Master Tailor – Zum Jockey Club
What We Were Wearing
For this visit to the Jockey Club, Raphael curated an outfit that perfectly balanced Viennese summer elegance with a nod to the shop’s equestrian name. He wore a textured, tobacco-brown linen sport coat featuring casual patch pockets, paired with a crisp green-and-white striped dress shirt.
To complement the warm tones of the jacket, he selected a yellow silk knit tie, which added a delightful texture. He coordinated this with a straw yellow pocket square featuring an Egyptian Scarab pattern in antique brass, blue, and black—a masterclass in matching colors without looking “matchy-matchy.”
He anchored the look with a pair of grey Prince of Wales check trousers. However, the highlight of the ensemble was undoubtedly the silver horse cufflinks, chosen specifically to pay homage to the “Jockey Club.” To finish the look, he wore Roberto Ugolini’s Oxford, a dignified and classic scent that suits the historic atmosphere of the shop.
Ask the Expert
What is the difference between a dressing gown and a smoking jacket?
According to Mr. Ruzicka, the main difference is weight and intended location of use. A smoking jacket is typically made of heavier cloth (around 400g) because gentlemen would traditionally wear them to step outside on a balcony or porch to smoke. A dressing gown is “classic home wear” intended for indoors, often made of lighter wools (around 220g), silks, or cotton velvet.
How should a custom dressing gown fit?
It should be significantly roomier than a suit jacket. Since you might wear it over pajamas or even a heavy sweater, it needs ample ease. Mr. Ruzicka warns that during measurements, “This is not the time to be vain. This is the time to be honest.” If you suck in your stomach, the gown will be uncomfortable when you sit down.
What are “frog” closures?
Also known as posamentrie, frog closures are braided, decorative toggles used to fasten the front of a garment. Mr. Ruzicka notes they originated in the “Hungarian area” and are particularly useful for heavier garments (like velvet) where a simple sash belt might not be secure enough.
Is a dressing gown considered formal wear?
No. Despite looking elegant, it is strictly loungewear. Sven describes it as the “modern-day equivalent of sweatpants and a hoodie”. It allows a gentleman to be “correct in the morning” and comfortable at home, but it is not meant for public outings.
“I can move around. It’s comfortable. I can wear a heavy sweater underneath of it… I can like sit down on a couch. And yeah, it’s very nice.”
Sven Raphael Schneider, CEO & Founder of Gentleman's Gazette
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Herr Schneider,
You Sir, are the epitome of dapper!
Frohe Weihnachten!