I’m what you would call a gloves aficionado. Unlined, driving gloves, lined, fur-lined, cashmere-lined, wool-lined, silk-lined—I have collected them all over the years.
Today, I wanted to share with you the things I have learned by highlighting very specific gloves in my collection. From my very first pair to the disappointments, here is a look at what makes for a truly exceptional pair of winter gloves.
The First Pair
The journey began with a pair of dress gloves from Ruckle in Germany, purchased on eBay. At the time, I bought black simply because that was what was available.
I wanted a tight fit, but the fingers ended up being way too short. I have kept them in my collection not for their fit, but as a reminder of where it all started.
The Disappointments
Not every purchase is a winner. My least favorite pair was one I bought in person.
Reason Why It’s Disappointing
Despite trying them on, they stretched significantly, becoming super thick and bulky with seams that were far from elegant. The wool lining wasn’t particularly warm or nice, and they even split the leather to use smaller pieces—a sign of poor quality.
Another overrated piece was a tweed pair from Lands’ End. While the Harris Tweed looked fantastic, the polyester fleece lining just couldn’t compare to the feel of cashmere or fur.
Things Raphael Can’t Live Without
The Most Unique
For uniqueness, I have an orange suede pair inspired by the Casentino overcoat—a traditional Italian coat with a distinct texture and color. It’s a bold, contrasting look.
RECOMMENDED
Rust Cashmere Lined Lamb Suede Gloves
Inspired by the vibrant Italian Casentino overcoat, these gloves feature a rich rust-orange lamb suede that adds a sophisticated pop of color to dark winter coats. They are lined with soft cashmere for superior warmth and finished with an elegant button closure.
In terms of unique linings, rabbit fur is hard to beat. I have tried Orylag (a fine rabbit fur), but found it a bit stiff. I opted for regular rabbit fur instead because it provides warmth and softness while remaining very flexible.
Unique Outer Material
Peccary is a beautifully soft leather harvested from wild animals native to Peru. However, not all peccary is created equal.
I found that skins tanned in Peru often had color discrepancies and felt stiffer. We eventually found a tannery in Germany that consistently produces the same colors and an extremely soft leather right from the start.
The beauty of peccary is that it gets softer the more you wear it and develops a beautiful patina.
Black and Red Peccary Gloves Cashmere Lined
Gray Unlined Peccary Gloves
Racing Green Unlined Peccary Gloves
Peccary Gloves Buying Guide
Casual vs. Formal
For casual wear, always choose something handsewn. You get that visible contrast stitch and the leather folded on the outside. For evening wear or formal occasions, choose machine-sewn gloves where the seams are inside out for a clean, elegant finish.
If you need a formal glove, go for white lamb nappa. Avoid white suede or cotton, as suede can shed onto your dark evening wear, leaving little white shreds behind.
The Most Versatile Color
If you can only choose one color, I would say gray is the most versatile. It is not as stark as black, allowing you to wear it with everything from a tuxedo or business suit to a tweed jacket or a casual ensemble.
Conclusion
I hope this overview gave you some insight into what to look for, and what to avoid, when building your own glove collection. To see the full breadth of the collection, including the “shredding” effect of white suede and the visual difference between Peruvian and German tanned leathers, be sure to watch the full video at the top of the page.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the warmest dress gloves?
Definitively, fur-lined gloves are the warmest option for dress wear. While technical ski gloves may be warmer, they are not suitable for a classic wardrobe.
What is Peccary leather?
Peccary leather comes from wild animals similar to javelinas, native to Peru. It is prized for its extreme softness, durability, and the beautiful patina it develops over time.
Are touchscreen gloves worth it?
Yes, they are the most practical choice for modern life. However, look for gloves where the leather itself is conductive rather than having a separate, ugly patch on the fingertip.
What color gloves are most versatile?
Dark gray is the most versatile color. It pairs well with formal wear, business suits, and casual outfits, unlike black which can be too stark, or brown which is often too casual for evening wear.
What to Watch Next
My Entire Winter Coat Collection
Discover the specific overcoats in my wardrobe—from heavy wools to lighter layers—that pair perfectly with dress gloves to complete your cold-weather ensemble.
Pocket Squares for Fall & Winter
Standard silk squares often feel too light for winter textures. Discover the right fabrics, like wool and madder silk, to harmonize with your heavier seasonal jackets.
Winter Must-Haves for Men
As you invest in warm gloves, don’t forget the rest of your wardrobe. Here are the essential items and accessories every gentleman needs for a stylish winter.
Hello,
Maybe I am mistaken, but I am under the belief that the traditionnal material for white evening gloves is kidskin rather than lambskin ?
Maybe do you know more about this subject than me, at the very least that’s the choice I made.
Sadly the glovemaker closed up earlier this year due to an end of kidskin supply, and to his knowledge he was the last to use the material.