We here at the Gentleman’s Gazette are big fans and frequent wearers of classic men’s hats. But, the more frequently you wear hats, the more likely it is for accidents to occur and for hats to get dirty, no matter how careful you are! Today, we’ll discuss the best methods to clean and store your hats so they look their best for years to come.
General Considerations on How to Clean and Store Men’s Hats
Unlike other types of garments, where machine washing is standard procedure or at least an option (yes, even for structured jackets), you shouldn’t run classic hat styles through a washing machine. How, then should you clean your and store your hats? Let’s begin with the generic tips first before going into the specifics.
1. Take Note of The Hat’s Material
Be sure to take note of your hat’s material composition before attempting to clean it. In some cases, your hat will be marked with a tag to indicate the material and, sometimes, even specific washing or cleaning instructions. But, especially for vintage hats, such tags might not be present. So, it will be up to you to determine what material the hat is made from.
On that note, for the various materials that are used in the construction of classic hat styles, our guide on the Anatomy of A Hat got you covered.
2. Consider The Hat’s Age & Dirtiness
Aside from the material, other factors to consider would be the hat’s age and the severity and location of dirtiness. Once you can account for all of these details, then you’ll be able to decide which washing method will be best.
3. Hold The Hat By The Brim — Not The Crown!
Remember also that it’s important to handle the hat properly.
No matter what the style or the material of the hat, it’s generally best to hold the hat firmly by the brim rather than by the crown without allowing too much bend.
4. Make Sure Your Hands Are Clean!
Also, be sure to keep your hands and fingers free of dirt and grease when handling and cleaning hats so that you won’t be generating more spots as you clean.
Note that for all the methods we’re going to discuss today, your overall goal should really be more stain reduction than stain removal. If you try to work too vigorously to completely get out a stain in a hat, you may end up doing more harm than good.
Finally here, what we won’t be covering in today’s guide are more casual styles like ball caps, beanies, and so on. Our methods are best suited to classic styles like fedoras, flat caps, Panama hats, and the like. We’ll even cover top hats today, so sit tight.
Spot Cleaning Men’s Classic Hats
This is a method that requires a bit of patience, and we won’t guarantee it to completely remove all types of especially stubborn stains. But, consider it a good first line of defense that should keep your hat intact.
Felt hats, straw hats, and even leather and suede styles are all good candidates for spot cleaning.
1. Check Strength & Flexibility
As a first step here, give the strength and flexibility of your hat a quick check. This is especially important for straw hats of any age or vintage hats made from other materials. Gently bend the brim of the hat at a few different points.
If you feel that it’s in danger of cracking, fraying, or otherwise breaking, there’s a good chance that this hat is too fragile for cleaning. In general, any cleaning tips we’ll discuss today for felt hats are best performed on the “crushable” variety, with stiff hats best left to be cleaned by professionals.
2. Dust-Off with A Garment Brush
Next, be mindful that, oftentimes, all that a hat really needs to look its best again is a simple dusting.
Use a garment brush or, better yet, a designated hat brush, which has softer bristles; Gently, but firmly work your way around the surface of the hat, and don’t forget about the hatband.
3. Dab The Dirty Areas with Damp Cloth
If your hat does need more than a dusting though, begin the spot cleaning process by dabbing the dirty areas of the hat with a slightly damp washcloth of cool to room temperature water, and note that the cloth should be damp and not completely wet.
4. Avoid Harsh Detergents
Some resources online suggest that you introduce mild non-bleach laundry detergent or dish soap. But, we would caution against this, especially for vintage hats, as these cleaning materials may be too harsh.
If you need some extra strength, we would recommend creating a slurry with a bit of cool water and some soap flakes (about a teaspoon to start out with), stirring to dissolve, and then dipping a washcloth in the mixture and squeezing a bit to distribute.
If this doesn’t improve the situation, you can consider moving up to a mild detergent. But if you do so, be sure to work slowly and carefully.
5. Use Warm Water
Warmer water might also help here, but be aware that water that is at too high a temperature can cause colors to run in some hats.
6. Use A Soft-Bristled Toothbrush
As a last resort for spot cleaning, you could also consider using a soft-bristled brush like a toothbrush. But, again, work slowly and carefully. And if you’re cleaning a straw hat using this method, be sure not to let any areas of the straw get too wet.
If you’re known to perspire heavily while wearing your hats, you can wipe down the inside and the outside with a damp cloth to remove some of the excess salt before going further. If salt stains have formed on a felt hat, you can dip a clean white cloth into an equal mix of distilled white vinegar and water, spot clean, and then allow to dry completely.
7. Dry & Store Indoors
Following spot cleaning of any kind, air drying indoors in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight is ideal. Storing your hat on a hat rack is best, followed by setting it upside down on its crown to prevent flattening of the brim and leaving it undisturbed. And, once the hat is fully dry, give it another brushing to restore its nap and luster.
Dry Cleaning Method on Stains
Next up, if your stain is of oily composition, using a dry cleaning method might be better. To remove oily stains from things like hair products, lotions, or body oil, you can sprinkle some talcum powder or cornstarch onto the stained area and let it sit. Allow the powder to remain on the area for two to three hours to absorb the stain, then brush it off.
If the stain persists, you can try more powder or use one of the other methods we’ll discuss today.
Whole-Hat Cleaning Tips for Different Hat Styles: 1. Felt Hats
Our next method today is for wool hats that are more uniformly dirty rather than having a highly localized spot. As we mentioned above, these methods are best applied to crushable, rather than stiff, hats.
- Start by filling a clean bowl or basin with cool water.
- Mix in about a teaspoon of soap flakes to start (or, if you think it necessary, a mild detergent) stirring to dissolve.
- Before you soak the entire hat, submerge a small and inconspicuous area of it for a few minutes to see if any color is going to bleed. The water in the basin should remain clear, and you can also test by dabbing at the dampened area with a clean white cloth. If you do notice any discoloration or color bleed at this step, stop this process and spot clean only. And if there are any particular concentrations of dirtiness, consider spot cleaning first before moving on.
If your hat has a leather sweatband, it’s a good idea to turn it out, wipe it dry with a cloth or paper towel, and then turn it back before leaving the hat alone to dry the rest of the way.
Remember not to twist or wring out your hat to dry it as this could cause damage, discoloration, or peeling. Don’t place the hat outside in direct sunlight to dry as this could discolor it, and don’t use a blow dryer or other excess heat as this could cause the hat to shrink. And, again, once the hat is fully dry, give it another good brushing.
Also, one more note here about leather sweatbands: if they’re getting dry or beginning to crack, you can consider applying a bit of saddle soap and then some leather conditioner to keep them supple. Do take extra care to prevent saddle soap or conditioner from getting onto the rest of the hat though as this may create more stains, which, of course, we’re trying to prevent.
2. Straw Hats
Next up are our methods for cleaning straw hats. For general upkeep, you can gently dust with a soft hat brush or a damp cloth.
For more deliberate cleaning though, it’s important to know what kind of straw your hat is made from as not all straws are created equal. For example, there’s Panama straw, raffia, coconut straw, hemp, seagrass, paper types like toyo or shantung straw, and more.
Every type of straw has a different level of durability and water resistance. So, as before, if your hat does have a label, be sure to read it for proper instructions. And, if your hat doesn’t have a label, pay attention to the tightness of the weave as, generally, a straw hat with a looser weave is going to be less durable than one with a denser weave. Of course, to some extent, you can also just go by feel.
In general, both the outer hatband and inner sweatband on a straw hat will be made from fabric, though leather is occasionally an option. These fabric bands can easily be cleaned with a damp towel or cloth.
Because straw hats are often worn in warmer temperatures, though, it’s not unusual for the inner sweatbands to become especially dirty or salty. As such, they should be cleaned regularly not only for the longevity and appearance of the hat but also for the comfort of the wearer and the health of their skin.
Clean these pieces gently, of course, and try first without any kind of soap or detergent. If necessary, you can add a bit of cleaning product but go slowly and work carefully. The spot cleaning and dry methods we outlined earlier can both be used on straw hats as well, and for more defined scuffs, you can try rubbing with a gum eraser, which can be found online or at art supply stores for a dollar or two.
Another option is to create a mixture of equal parts hydrogen peroxide and water, stir to combine, and then dip a clean white cloth in the mixture, working on a small area of the hat, and expanding outward. This method is a bit more extreme, however, so exercise caution.
If the label on your straw hat clearly states that it’s waterproof, you can also try the basin soaking method, experimenting with slightly warmer water. Specific cleaning products like Nustraw exist on the market to remove stains from straw hats, but overall, we would say that the methods we’re outlining today are lower risk.
In general, here are a few more related tips for straw hat maintenance:
- Thinner and softer straws can be stiffened by brushing with a light coat of clear shellac that’s been diluted with an equal amount of alcohol.
- To brighten the color and renew the gloss of darker straws, rub them with a dark cloth dampened with alcohol, diluted with one-quarter the amount of water, and then polish lightly with a piece of dark-colored velvet or a velvet brush.
3. Leather Hats
Classic hats made from leather, whether smooth or suede, are definitely less common than their felt fabric and straw counterparts, but they are out there. As such, here are our cleaning tips for those types.
For smooth leather, discolorations can be minimized and mitigated with a periodic application of conditioners like mink oil or neatsfoot oil. Avoid saddle soap for general cleaning on the greater surface of a leather hat, however, as it may dry out the hat over time.
Regular upkeep with a soft brush or a damp cloth is also recommended here, but be especially sure that the cloth isn’t too wet.
- To clean a suede hat, begin with a thorough brushing, a standard hat brush can work but a specialized suede brush is also a worthwhile investment. And for lighter colors, a suede bar or suede eraser can also work well.
4. Top Hats
The most formal hat style that a man can wear the top hat is reserved for the White Tie and morning wear dress codes. Both of which are covered in our comprehensive Black Tie guide.
When considering evening top hats in black, the best models are made from either silk or beaver fur felt that is highly polished to look like silk. The silk versions are no longer made today, however, as the last mill that produced hats of this type has long since gone out of business. So, silk top hats must be purchased vintage.
Beaver fur hats, meanwhile, are still being manufactured, especially by English firms like Lock and Co., which also sell vintage models.
The collapsible style of opera hat, which is also still made by some manufacturers today, is typically constructed from ribbed silk, especially in the US, or dull merino cloth, especially in the United Kingdom.
Top hats for morning dress can also be made from black silk, although gray fur felt is more common. Whether black or gray, we’d suggest that you avoid top hats in wool as these are inherently too informal for their respective dress codes.
Cleaning Top Hats
As to the cleaning process then, any dust on a vintage or modern top hat can be removed via gentle brushing with a soft hat brush. When dusting an antique silk top hat, it’s important to brush in the direction of the nap in order to keep it smooth.
Buffing
Antique silk top hats were also originally designed to be buffed. This is a process that should be carried out from time to time to keep the hat looking its best.
Using a velvet pad or brush, sweep over the surface in the direction of the nap a few times until the hat’s deep and glossy shine is reinstated.
If your top hat has gotten wet, either in the rain or otherwise, allow it to dry in a well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight or excessive heat.
Finally here, when you’re wearing a top hat, especially a vintage one, care should always be taken when setting it down on a flat surface. This is because if any damage is done to the fabric on the flat top of the crown, it can’t be repaired, only blackened.
Final Tips for Cleaning Classic Men’s Hats
So, those are our methods for cleaning your classic hats. If you’re not having success with one method, you could try another or perhaps a combination of methods, allowing time to rest and dry completely in between.
However, if all else fails, visiting a dedicated hat shop for cleaning might also be an option. More so than a general tailor, a dedicated hatter should have the necessary tools and information to perform the job well. Keep in mind though that going this route has the potential to be quite costly as different hats with different needs will be charged at different prices.
In general, then, consider your total investment. If you’ve spent a good deal of money on a vintage hat in nearly pristine quality, it might be worth it to go to a hatter if any cleaning needs to happen. Otherwise, we’d recommend trying our methods first.
More Hat Storage Tips
Long-Term Storage
When not wearing a hat, especially for extended periods of time, the best ways to store it are in a hatbox or set alone in a cool dry place.
Again, store with the crown down to prevent distortion to the brim and fill comfortably with tissue paper. If a hat rack is your only option for long-term storage, choose one with a wider and flatter hook shape that won’t distort the crown over time.
Short-Term Storage
For short-term storage or hats that you wear in regular rotation though, a hat rack should be more than suitable. And if storage space is an issue, you can stack hats with similarly shaped crowns so long as none of them are being stretched or deformed.
Top hats should always be stored in a dedicated box or top hat bucket kept away from moths and, ideally, with a layer of silk on top for added protection. The hat should fit comfortably in the bucket or box so as not to move around much. But, there should also be a bit of clearance so that the hat doesn’t rub against the top or sides of the box.
When you’re traveling, bringing along a separate hatbox for any type of hat is best, but if you do need to pack a hat in your suitcase, you should fill the crown with clean socks or underwear. Leave a hat-sized nest inside the space of your suitcase and insert the hat crown down into this nest being sure that the brim isn’t being misshapen.
Handle by The Brim
To help preserve the shape of your hats, remember that they should always be handled by the brim rather than the crown and with clean hands as much as possible.
If you continually handle a fedora by the pinch of the crown, this may lead to weakness or tears in the fabric or cause the pinch to become asymmetrical. And, in a similar fashion, straw hats can crack along the pinch if handled there often.
Avoid Exposing to Heat & Moisture
Hats of any kind are prone to shrinking when subjected to excess moisture for extended periods of time or when subjected to excess heat.
Again, don’t leave your hats in direct sunlight as this could lead to discoloration, and don’t store them in plastic as this could lead to discoloration and trap moisture causing mildew.
If you’d like to learn how to reshape a hat, you can consult our guide on the website.
Conclusion
Armed with these techniques, you should be able to keep any and every classic hat style in your wardrobe in tip-top shape. Remember to work slowly, carefully, and patiently and you won’t end up mad as a hatter.
Outfit Rundown
I’m wearing a summery outfit topped off with a vintage straw hat. This is a relatively soft and light straw in a light natural color and it’s accented by a brown fabric hat band, which is less harsh than the black you might see more often.
Many of the other elements in my outfit are also working within this off-white or brown color palette such as my linen herringbone weave jacket, which is in a light brown color, and my plain brown trousers.
Working within the same color family, my tobacco brown suede loafers serve to ground the outfit while also keeping that casual feel. The other elements in my wardrobe today feature colors of blue such as my shirt, which features a micro-grid pattern of light blue and black on a white ground. My blue boutonniere is a prototype design from Fort Belvedere, and my pocket square also from Fort Belvedere is in dark blue linen with a lighter blue contrasting x-stitch on the edge.
Rounding out the outfit are my shadow-striped socks from Fort Belvedere in gray and light blue to harmonize with my accessories as well as my shirt. You can find the socks and the pocket square that I’m wearing in the Fort Belvedere shop, along with a wide variety of other menswear accessories to go with your outfits and, indeed, your hats.
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