For most of history, men’s trousers sat at the natural waist. And even though high-rise trousers offer a flattering fit, comfort, and a refined silhouette, they have largely faded from mainstream fashion. Today, low- and mid-rise trousers dominate menswear. What caused the shift?
Let’s explore why.
Why Were High-Rise Trousers Popular Back Then?
During the Golden Age of Menswear (1920s–1950s), nearly all men’s trousers featured a high rise. They were favored for several reasons:
They complement a wider range of body types compared to low-rise options.
They provide greater comfort, especially when worn with suspenders, as they remain in place regardless of movement.
Their superior drape enhances the overall appearance of an outfit, creating a timeless and elegant silhouette.
Despite these benefits, cultural and historical factors led to their decline after World War II. But why did they fall out of favor? Let’s examine the eight key reasons.
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8 Reasons Why High Waisted Pants Went Out of Style
1. World War II Fabric Shortages Made Slimmer Pants the Norm
World War II brought widespread fabric rationing, forcing designers to simplify clothing. High-rise trousers, with their fuller cuts, used more material, so slimmer, lower-rise styles became the practical choice. Once men adopted this new style, many never returned to high-rise trousers.
However, the post-war years also saw an explosion of extravagant styles, including Victory Suits—featuring double-breasted jackets, wide lapels, broad ties, extra padding, and exaggerated high-rise trousers.
Great examples of these ultra-wide details can be seen in One Way Street (1950) starring James Mason. But like most fads, this excessive look faded quickly, reinforcing the shift toward mid-rise trousers as the new standard.
2. High-Waisted Pants Didn’t Work with Bold Shirts
Before the 1930s, exposing one’s dress shirt in public was considered improper—almost comparable to walking around in underwear today. Men covered their shirts with waistcoats, kept their jackets buttoned, and wore high-rise trousers that ensured minimal shirt exposure.
However, as styles changed and shirts became more colorful and patterned, men started wearing them without jackets. Sport shirts, designed to be worn without jackets, inspired bold new designs.
Colorful & Affordable Dress shirts
With improved manufacturing after WWII, men gained access to an array of dynamic, affordable dress shirts.
Since high-rise trousers covered too much of the shirt, they were increasingly rejected in favor of lower-rise styles.
3. Fitness Culture Encouraged Men to Show Off Their Physique
The 1950s sparked a fitness craze, with icons like Charles Atlas encouraging men to sculpt their bodies. A toned midsection became something to flaunt (i.e, “six pack abs”), and lower-rise trousers complemented this by revealing more of the torso.
With gym culture booming, men wanted to highlight their physiques, and low-rise trousers became associated with a more athletic and modern appearance. As a result, lower-rise trousers became the go-to choice for men seeking a sleeker, body-conscious look.
Athletic Dress Pants: Just a Trend?
4. Slimmer Jackets Made High-Waisted Pants Look Awkward
As athleticism influenced clothing styles, jacket cuts also changed:
- Skinnier lapels
- Tighter cuts
- Shorter skirts with open quarters
- Raised button stances (for tall, slender appearance)
High-rise trousers, with their higher waistlines, didn’t always pair well with these sleeker jackets. The extra fabric at the natural waist could bulge beneath slim-cut suit jackets, creating an awkward “hammer pants” (pants with excess fabric at the waist, resembling MC Hammer’s iconic style) effect that disrupted the outfit’s proportional harmony.
This imbalance in proportions made high-waisted trousers appear outdated and less compatible with evolving menswear trends.
5. Suspenders Fell Out of Style as Belts Became Popular
During the same period, belts overtook suspenders as the preferred trouser-retention method. While suspenders work best with high-rise trousers, they are less comfortable with lower-rise styles—where they can dig into the shoulders and wrinkle the shirt front.
Belts, on the other hand, paired naturally with lower-rise trousers, reinforcing their popularity. Additionally, younger men wanted to differentiate themselves from their fathers and grandfathers’ “old school vibe”, and belts helped signal a more modern, youthful look.
Why did men start wearing belts?
6. Casual Styles (Jeans, Chinos, Shorts) Took Over
By the 1960s, cultural shifts led to a general casualization of menswear. Jeans, chinos, and shorts became everyday staples, and casual trousers—originally designed for sports—suited for movement, align with the shift toward informal dressing.
Jeans
Chinos
Shorts
As men became accustomed to wearing lower-rise casual trousers, this preference extended to dress trousers. Wearing high-rise trousers without a jacket could also create “frog legs” (legs looking disproportionately long due to a high waist), an unflattering look where the elevated waistline exaggerated leg length.
With casual fashion dominating, men moved away from traditional tailoring, paving the way for brands to market lower-rise trousers as the new standard.
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7. Fast Fashion and Marketing Reinforced the Low-Rise Trend
Fashion evolves in cycles, and manufacturers benefited from encouraging trends that required men to buy new wardrobes. Lower-rise trousers became the economical choice, using less fabric and requiring simpler tailoring.
As these styles gained traction, marketing campaigns reinforced the idea that lower-rise trousers were the future of menswear—encouraging men to replace their high-waisted pants even if they were still perfectly wearable.
Additionally, the widespread adoption of central heating led to a demand for lighter-weight fabrics. However, these materials draped poorly compared to the heavier fabrics of vintage high-rise trousers.
While Gurkha trousers and linen slacks can work well in a high-rise style, achieving proper drape requires more tailoring expertise—something fast fashion was not designed to accommodate.
8. Pop Culture and Fashion Trends Made High-Waisted Pants Uncool
The 1960s Mod Movement deliberately moved away from the fuller silhouettes of the ‘40s and ‘50s. By the ‘70s and ‘80s, high-rise trousers were associated with old-fashioned figures and nerdy, unfashionable individuals.
As illustrated in modern TV shows like Mad Men, slimmer, lower-rise suits were in style during the early 1960s. Even the 1980s resurgence of high-rise trousers—seen in Power Suits—was short-lived, as they were later dismissed as yuppie clothes rather than a serious style alternative.
With this, the high-rise trousers were cast as relics of the past, while lower-rise style—like bell-bottoms and boot cuts—embodied the bold, forward-looking spirit of the era. The cultural upheaval of the time reinforced this divide, leading to the ultimate decline of the men’s high rise trousers.
How Can You Style High-Waisted Pants Today?
For those looking to incorporate high-rise trousers into their wardrobe, consider how they can enhance your proportions and create a timeless look. Now, I find that a contrasting belt on any type of trouser, but particularly a high-rise trouser, can look very attractive because it visually separates the upper part from the lower part. But as always, you have to work with what you have.
For example, I’m 6’1″ or 185 centimeters tall. However, my inseam is just about 31 inches. That means I have a long torso and relatively short legs. So for me, a high-rise pair of trousers in a full cut that accommodates my big bum and my big thighs is the perfect solution. It may not be the case if you have super long legs and a short torso.
So, on that note, in today’s outfit, I’m wearing a high-rise pair of trousers in a more casual ensemble. It starts out with a wool bomber-style jacket from Polo Ralph Lauren. It’s probably from the 80s or 90s—I don’t know exactly. I got it vintage on eBay.
The shirt is a classic Oxford cloth button-down from Mercer US. My pants are goldenrod yellow corduroys that are high-waisted, flat-front with belt loops and a ticket pocket from Fort Belvedere. They come in 14 colors, and you can find them in our shop. It’s a beautiful Italian-made corduroy that’s meant to last but is soft at the same time.
The belt I’m wearing with it is a brown calf suede belt that works well with my brown calf suede Chelsea boots. They’re from Loake, the 1880s series. The belt is part of a system, so you can exchange the buckles with the belts from our shop.
The socks are also from Fort Belvedere. They are navy and yellow socks that pick up the colors of the jacket and tie the shoes and the pants together. Last but not least, I’m wearing a pinky ring in solid gold with a crest that I found on a recent trip to Vienna.
Should you wear high-waist pants?
Are High-Rise Trousers Back in Style?
While they are no longer the standard in menswear, high-rise trousers have seen a resurgence among classic style enthusiasts. Their comfort, drape, and refined silhouette make them a favorite among those who appreciate timeless fashion.
So, where can you buy men’s high waisted trousers?
At Fort Belvedere, we have reintroduced high-rise trousers in modern cuts that cater to various body types, ensuring that well-fitting trousers remain accessible. Whether high-rise trousers will return to mainstream fashion remains to be seen, but their enduring appeal among sartorially inclined men suggests they won’t disappear anytime soon.
What do you think? Should we make a video on The Rise, Fall, and Rise Again of High-Rise Trousers? Let us know in the comments!
Frequently Asked Questions
Should men wear high-waisted pants?
We sincerely believe high waisted pants are a perfectly acceptable alternative to lower rise ones. In fact, high rise pants have some unique benefits that low rise trousers do not provide.
What decade did men wear high waisted pants?
High waisted pants were at their highest level of popularity during the 1880s-1940s, and were once seen as the de facto option for men to choose.
Why do old men wear high-waisted pants?
Higher waisted pants are often associated with old men because they were most popular in older eras, and many who wear them today never made the switch over. In truth though, anyone can wear high waisted pants.
Excellent article (as usual!). I’d just insist on one aspect… they are very, very comfortable!!
I maybe wouldn’t have ALL my trousers that way but I definitely would like more in my wardrobe.
I would like to buy a quality, traditional wool suit with fishtail trousers. Do you know of any labels that offer such?
You did not mention two issues which seem to be, in my opinion, the most important ones.
Low-rise trousers divide a man’s silthouette in two natural, anatomical parts making it more visually appealing. If one is to wear just a shirt and trousers – low rise would look a lot better.
On the other hand, high-rise trousers cover a bit more of the shirt at the bottom. Without them, the shirt may be visible from under a jacket or a waistcoat. Since shirts are often white, this draws a lot of attention and looks quite scruffy.
Because of that I always prefer to wear high-rise trousers when worn with a jacket.
Could the disappearance of vests also have an impact on high-waisted trousers? Low-waisted trousers don’t look good with vests; but high-waisted ones look fine. I think the disappearances are somewhat related; or at least happened around the same time.
I am a 44 waist and your lovely 42 max waist cords don’t fit – I tried but my alterations lady said no way.
So please tell me where else by mail order, I live in San Francisco, can I get good high waisted pants that I can wear with sports coats or cashmere sweaters?
Thank you.