It’s once again time for Pitti Uomo pictures! This time around, the GG team including Sven Raphael Schneider took all the pictures which means we were able to curate a good selection focusing on specific outfits and details.
This is where Pitti Uomo takes place – at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence.
As always, rather than just providing the pictures we highlight a few Do’s & Don’ts, so they are more useful to you.
In this outfit, we see a black hat, grey glen check suit, black overcoat and navy tie. The black hat, black sunglasses, and tie bar are all fine with the outfit as a whole, but the one thing that stands out negatively is the navy tie.
On its own, a navy tie is a very versatile accessory but when you wear black it simply looks bad because it is close in color yet different. So when you wear black, avoid combining it with navy.
In this example, we have a similar combination with slightly more contrast. The hat is brown, but it works well with the tie and camel brown always pairs well with navy. The grey windowpane suit is not the best choice in my opinion, but it works. Maybe a charcoal brown suit would have been a better choice, but it is still a better outfit than before because the colors work together.
This seasoned gentleman with grey hair keeps it simple going with a double breasted 6×2 herringbone overcoat in salt and pepper and pairs it with a dark scarf and sunglasses. Of course it is simple but sometimes it is more flattering to go with something simple that works for you rather than something elaborate that doesn’t.
Overall, the older gentlemen at Pitti seem to wear generally less flamboyant outfits which often makes them better dressed than their younger counterparts. Of course, as a young chap you experiment and everyone learns along their sartorial journey. However, if the seasoned guys like this gentleman with a covert coat, purple chalk-striped suit and hat dress well, it pays to analyse their outfits to improve one’s own.
The colors in this outfit are a bit more daring and unusual, and they work rather well together. However, there are some ways to improve this outfit:
- The tie is too long; it should never show underneath your vest
- On a single breasted waistcoat, it looks better to leave the bottom button undone
- When you choose a vest, make sure it matches your jacket exactly, or it is in stark contrast. This chap is wearing a vest that is very similar in color, but the weave is different, and the sportcoat has an overcheck, and that just looks strange.
- If you decide to wear a button-down collar with a tie, make sure it is a bit taller, so the tie knot can breathe. Otherwise, it looks too stacked.
Double breasted overcoats were very popular this season, and personally, I love them. However, Pitti is in Italy, and it’s not cold. So most of the gents sweat under their multi-layered outfits and hence many forego the scarf and flap up their collars instead.
While this is a practical way to keep you warm when you have no other choice, it looks particularly strange with peaked lapels. A scarf tied in the right way is simply much more elegant.
Pitti is known for the Pitti Peacocks – a term that I coined years ago and that seems to have caught on.
A lot of people try to catch the photographers’ eyes and what could be better to wear bold colors and patterns that you won’t find anywhere else? Or so they think…
At the end of the day, it’s a look that you should avoid until you intentionally want to gather this kind of attention. In the real world, I can think of no situation where you would wish to dress in that way but of course, as always: each to his own.
Just recently, we interviewed Gui Bo. Learn all about his style here.
This is certainly a daring outfit. Traditionally, tweed is made into single breasted coats, but since it’s Pitti, it had to be double breasted ;).
The color is stunning, and the contrasting buttons work, and so does the scarf and the brown pecarry gloves in the pocket and the brown glasses.
However, the hat is too dark and clashes too much. Navy or brown would have been preferable. Also, even though the shirt has different twill structure, the color is too close, especially from a few feet away. Hence, a lighter shade of blue or a pale yellow would have been a better choice.
At Pitti, people always try to wear unusual sunglasses to standout from the crowd and so does this gentleman with his octagonal sunglasses. They are certainly a statement piece, and so is his overcoat.
It features patch pockets that are a casual detail as well as cloth covered buttons, which is traditionally something you find on more formal garments. A pair of brown horn or corozo buttons or even plastic would have looked better than these.
This is a perfect example why it pays to understand the fundamentals of classic men’s style.
Overall a good outfit with muted colors. Maybe the overcoat and suit could have been a little more contrasting, but the red hair and tan shoes are the accents in this ensemble.
So if you have features that make you noticeable, take that into consideration when you dress and tone it down a bit, and you’ll look better.
The three piece suit with DB vest is a great outfit with a subtle detail that separates you from the crowd. However in this case, some other accents were added, which destroy the classic look.
- The bold overcoat is certainly out there, and unless you are an artist, chances are it won’t work for you.
- Keep the layers in mind. Three piece suits are warmer than two piece suits, and when you add an overcoat, it gets even hotter. Adding a sweater, and even worse, a turtleneck sweater is an overkill
- When you wear a turtleneck sweater, wear just that and skip any neckwear, such as the tie in this example because is just looks bad.
These two gents opted for a partner look with little deviations. On the one hand, they matched the suits, overcoats, socks, cardigan, and shirt colors but they chose different shoes, ties hats and sunglasses that makes it look very different unless you take a closer look.
I can’t think of any real situation where this kind of partner look might be a good idea – maybe you come up with one. Let me know if you do.
This gentleman has lots of patterns and textures going. On top of that, the outfit contains many colors. The scarf itself is very nice but when it shows underneath your buttoning point, it accentuates your crotch, and that’s not and advantageous look in my opinion, and a scarf looks better tied. What do you think?
Shawl collars are not widely available and hence it is a good way for people to show that they got a custom garment.
Personally, I think the overcoat is made from a fantastic Donegal tweed cloth in burgundy, and the shawl collars work, although an Ulster collar would have been even better.
The grey trousers and tie all harmonize together, and even the dark Albert slippers work regarding color. But generally, they are better around the house than on the street.
If you are thin and young, you can wear skinny clothes, just like this young man in the picture on the left. The fit is trim, the color combinations ok. Maybe different socks and black shoes would have been a better choice.
Also, if your overcoat has a chest pocket, add a pocket square and if you don’t want that, get a coat without a pocket. In any case, be deliberate.
Moreover, overcoats look smarter when worn with a scarf. If it is not very cold, get a lighter scarf, but it will always make you look more handsome.
If you are unsure what overcoat color to get, camel is always a good start because it pairs well with many colors.
Fur collars can look very handsome, and they keep you warm but it is not for everyone, and it will put the spotlight on you. So think twice if that’s what you want to achieve. In this outfit, you can see haberdasher Tomasz Miler from Poland, and it works quite well for him. For more picture of this coat, take a look here.
Turtleneck sweaters have been very popular at Pitti this year, and if you like the look, go for it. Personally, I am not a huge fan of them but each to his own.
Since I was taking pictures all day, it was important for me to have great flexibility in the armholes. Moreover, an overcoat would have limited my range of movement and hence I needed a warm cloth. Therefore, I chose to wear a vintage A. Caraceni glen check suit in brown flannel. It had very small armholes so I could hold my camera all day. The flannel fabric kept me warm especially since the coat was double breasted and so I did not feel cold.
What do you think about these outfits? Do you know the names of any of the gentlemen we posted? Please share your thoughts in the comments, thanks!