Pitti Uomo 89

Pitti Uomo 89 – Street Style Outfits & What You Can Learn From It

It’s once again time for Pitti Uomo pictures! This time around, the GG team including Sven Raphael Schneider took all the pictures which means we were able to curate a good selection focusing on specific outfits and details. 

Florence, Italy

Florence, Italy

This is where Pitti Uomo takes place – at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence.

Fortezza da Basso - Fairgrounds of Pitti Uomo

Fortezza da Basso – Fairgrounds of Pitti Uomo

As always, rather than just providing the pictures we highlight a few Do’s & Don’ts, so they are more useful to you.

Black Hat, Grey Suit, Black Overcoat and navy tie

Black Hat, Grey Suit, Black Overcoat and navy tie

In this outfit, we see a black hat, grey glen check suit, black overcoat and navy tie. The black hat, black sunglasses, and tie bar are all fine with the outfit as a whole, but the one thing that stands out negatively is the navy tie.

On its own, a navy tie is a very versatile accessory but when you wear black it simply looks bad because it is close in color yet different. So when you wear black, avoid combining it with navy.

Brown hat with dark blue overcoat, windowpane sport coat, cream paisley tie

Brown hat with dark blue overcoat, windowpane sport coat, cream paisley tie

In this example, we have a similar combination with slightly more contrast. The hat is brown, but it works well with the tie and camel brown always pairs well with navy. The grey windowpane suit is not the best choice in my opinion, but it works. Maybe a charcoal brown suit would have been a better choice, but it is still a better outfit than before because the colors work together.

Classic Double Breasted Herringbone Overcoat with dark scarf

Classic Double-Breasted Herringbone Overcoat with dark scarf

This seasoned gentleman with grey hair keeps it simple going with a double breasted 6×2 herringbone overcoat in salt and pepper and pairs it with a dark scarf and sunglasses. Of course it is simple but sometimes it is more flattering to go with something simple that works for you rather than something elaborate that doesn’t.

Covert coat with purple chalk stirpe suit with a brown hat

Covert coat with purple chalk stripe suit with a brown hat

Overall, the older gentlemen at Pitti seem to wear generally less flamboyant outfits which often makes them better dressed than their younger counterparts. Of course, as a young chap you experiment and everyone learns along their sartorial journey. However, if the seasoned guys like this gentleman with a covert coat, purple chalk-striped suit and hat dress well, it pays to analyse their outfits to improve one’s own.

Denim Shirt with Brown vest, simplar sport coat and light brown overcoat and light brown grenadine tie

Denim Shirt with Brown vest, similar sport coat and light brown overcoat and light brown grenadine tie

The colors in this outfit are a bit more daring and unusual, and they work rather well together. However, there are some ways to improve this outfit:

  1. The tie is too long; it should never show underneath your vest
  2. On a single breasted waistcoat, it looks better to leave the bottom button undone
  3. When you choose a vest, make sure it matches your jacket exactly, or it is in stark contrast. This chap is wearing a vest that is very similar in color, but the weave is different, and the sportcoat has an overcheck, and that just looks strange.
  4. If you decide to wear a button-down collar with a tie, make sure it is a bit taller, so the tie knot can breathe. Otherwise, it looks too stacked.
Valentino Ricci in dark green overcoat without a scarf

Valentino Ricci in dark green overcoat without a scarf

Double Breasted Overcoat without scarf and popped collar - a very common trend at Pitti

Double Breasted Overcoat without scarf and popped collar – a very common trend at Pitti

Double breasted overcoats were very popular this season, and personally, I love them. However, Pitti is in Italy, and it’s not cold. So most of the gents sweat under their multi-layered outfits and hence many forego the scarf and flap up their collars instead.

While this is a practical way to keep you warm when you have no other choice, it looks particularly strange with peaked lapels. A scarf tied in the right way is simply much more elegant.

When it is too warm for a scarf, chances are you can leave the overcoat at home and go with a lighter topcoat or trench coat.

Flamboyant outfit with bold colors, patterns, patchwork scarf and cane

Flamboyant outfit with bold colors, patterns, patchwork scarf and cane

Pitti is known for the Pitti Peacocks – a term that I coined years ago and that seems to have caught on.

A lot of people try to catch the photographers’ eyes and what could be better to wear bold colors and patterns that you won’t find anywhere else? Or so they think…

At the end of the day, it’s a look that you should avoid until you intentionally want to gather this kind of attention. In the real world, I can think of no situation where you would wish to dress in that way but of course, as always: each to his own.

Gui Bo from Men Need More Style

Gui Bo from Men Need More Style

Just recently, we interviewed Gui Bo. Learn all about his style here.

Light Blue Wool Sprot coat with contrast buttons in 6x2 DB style with hat, brown herringbone scarf and blue twill shirt with peccary gloves

Light Blue Wool Sprot coat with contrast buttons in 6×2 DB style with hat, brown herringbone scarf and blue twill shirt with peccary gloves

This is certainly a daring outfit. Traditionally, tweed is made into single breasted coats, but since it’s Pitti, it had to be double breasted ;).

The color is stunning, and the contrasting buttons work, and so does the scarf and the brown pecarry gloves in the pocket and the brown glasses.

However, the hat is too dark and clashes too much. Navy or brown would have been preferable. Also, even though the shirt has different twill structure, the color is too close, especially from a few feet away. Hence, a lighter shade of blue or a pale yellow would have been a better choice.

Light brown overcoat with patch pockets with covered cloth buttons, winchester shirt with barrel cuffs and blue rope striped suit

Light brown overcoat with patch pockets with cloth covered buttons, Winchester shirt with barrel cuffs and blue rope striped suit

At Pitti, people always try to wear unusual sunglasses to standout from the crowd and so does this gentleman with his octagonal sunglasses. They are certainly a statement piece, and so is his overcoat.

It features patch pockets that are a casual detail as well as cloth covered buttons, which is traditionally something you find on more formal garments. A pair of brown horn or corozo buttons or even plastic would have looked better than these.

This is a perfect example why it pays to understand the fundamentals of classic men’s style.

Muted Colors in grey and brown with red hair

Muted Colors in grey and brown with red hair

Overall a good outfit with muted colors. Maybe the overcoat and suit could have been a little more contrasting, but the red hair and tan shoes are the accents in this ensemble.

So if you have features that make you noticeable, take that into consideration when you dress and tone it down a bit, and you’ll look better.

Navy textured three piece suit with pink turtleneck, tie and paisley overcoat and brown hat

Navy textured three piece suit with pink turtleneck, tie and paisley overcoat and brown hat

The three piece suit with DB vest is a great outfit with a subtle detail that separates you from the crowd.  However in this case, some other accents were added, which destroy the classic look.

  1. The bold overcoat is certainly out there, and unless you are an artist, chances are it won’t work for you.
  2. Keep the layers in mind. Three piece suits are warmer than two piece suits, and when you add an overcoat, it gets even hotter. Adding a sweater, and even worse, a turtleneck sweater is an overkill
  3. When you wear a turtleneck sweater, wear just that and skip any neckwear, such as the tie in this example because is just looks bad.
Partner Look with grey Striped suits with navy cardigans, blue shirts, dotted socks etc

Partner Look with gray striped suits with navy cardigans, blue shirts, dotted socks, etc

These two gents opted for a partner look with little deviations. On the one hand, they matched the suits, overcoats, socks, cardigan, and shirt colors but they chose different shoes, ties hats and sunglasses that makes it look very different unless you take a closer look.

I can’t think of any real situation where this kind of partner look might be a good idea – maybe you come up with one. Let me know if you do.

Pattern Overload & Lots of Accessories

Pattern Overload & Lots of Accessories

This gentleman has lots of patterns and textures going. On top of that, the outfit contains many colors. The scarf itself is very nice but when it shows underneath your buttoning point, it accentuates your crotch, and that’s not and advantageous look in my opinion, and a scarf looks better tied. What do you think?

Shawl Collar burgundy overcoat with bold checked with grey striped trousers and Ralph Lauren slippers

Shawl Collar burgundy overcoat with bold checked with grey striped trousers and Ralph Lauren slippers

Shawl collars are not widely available and hence it is a good way for people to show that they got a custom garment.

Personally, I think the overcoat is made from a fantastic Donegal tweed cloth in burgundy, and the shawl collars work, although an Ulster collar would have been even better.

The grey trousers and tie all harmonize together, and even the dark Albert slippers work regarding color. But generally, they are better around the house than on the street.

Skinny look dark blue herringbone 6x2, light blue shirt with navy tie, brown and beige houndstooth sport coat with light grey skinny pants, dark green wool socks and brown full brogue socks

Skinny look dark blue herringbone 6×2, light blue shirt with navy tie, brown and beige houndstooth sport coat with light grey skinny pants, dark green wool socks and brown full brogue socks

If you are thin and young, you can wear skinny clothes, just like this young man in the picture on the left. The fit is trim, the color combinations ok. Maybe different socks and black shoes would have been a better choice.

Also, if your overcoat has a chest pocket, add a pocket square and if you don’t want that, get a coat without a pocket. In any case, be deliberate.

Moreover, overcoats look smarter when worn with a scarf. If it is not very cold, get a lighter scarf, but it will always make you look more handsome.

Tan Overcoats were very popular atPitti Uomo 89

Tan Overcoats were very popular at Pitti Uomo 89

 

 

 

If you are unsure what overcoat color to get, camel is always a good start because it pairs well with many colors.

Tomasz Miler from Poland with blue blazer, fur collar, tattersall checked shirt and printed tie

Tomasz Miler from Poland with blue blazer, fur collar, tattersall checked shirt and printed tie

Fur collars can look very handsome, and they keep you warm but it is not for everyone, and it will put the spotlight on you. So think twice if that’s what you want to achieve. In this outfit, you can see haberdasher Tomasz Miler from Poland, and it works quite well for him. For more picture of this coat, take a look here.

Turtleneck, Dark Colors and Textures

Turtleneck, Dark Colors, and Textures

Turtleneck sweaters have been very popular at Pitti this year, and if you like the look, go for it. Personally, I am not a huge fan of them but each to his own.

Yours Truly in Firenze wearing a vintage brown flannel glencheck suit

Yours Truly in Firenze wearing a vintage brown flannel glen check suit

Since I was taking pictures all day, it was important for me to have great flexibility in the armholes. Moreover, an overcoat would have limited my range of movement and hence I needed a warm cloth.  Therefore, I chose to wear a vintage A. Caraceni glen check suit in brown flannel. It had very small armholes so I could hold my camera all day. The flannel fabric kept me warm especially since the coat was double breasted and so I did not feel cold.

The collar pin elevated my wool tie knot in a nice manner, and the yellow boutonniere provided a little pop.

What do you think about these outfits? Do you know the names of any of the gentlemen we posted? Please share your thoughts in the comments, thanks!

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Pitti Uomo 89 - Street Style Outfits & What You Can Learn From It
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Latest pictures from Pitti Uomo 89 and what you can learn from it - exclusively on the Gentleman's Gazette
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29 replies
  1. James Marwood says:

    Great article Sven – and I am in agreement with all but a few minor points – I think a pocket square looks foolish on an overcoat, although gloves in the breast pocket look very smart, and I think a scarf that extends below the button point can work, so long as it does not go beyond the waistband.

    For me the three standout outfits are the older chap with the grey herringbone overcoat, the shawl collar donegal coat and Tomasz Miler’s fantastic fur collar.

  2. Michael says:

    Great article and I agree with you on almost everything. One thing I would add though is the trend of unbuckled monkstraps. This looks bad, must be really uncomfortable as your shoes must be slipping off and overall just looks like you forgot to buckle them. People should really stop doing this, I’m not sure whose idea it was but it wasn’t a good one.

    • Sven Raphael Schneider says:

      If you have a well fitting pair of double monk straps they will fit even with a buckle undone. Stylistically, it’s certainly a bit more on the want-to-be-sprezzatura side but each to his own. Personally, I prefer to buckle my monkstraps.

  3. Terry W says:

    Very interesting photo shoot, Sven. I’m a new reader and have enjoyed your blogs very much.
    I have always believed that there should be a slight break at the bottom of trousers, and that socks should never be seen while walking. I notice several outfits here – mainly the very thin ones on younger men – ignore this. I still haven’t figured out my exact length to accomplish this correctly. In too many parts of the California Bay Area, “anything goes” goes an infinatum here. Jeans several inches too long, and the ubiquitous tee shirt and athletic shoes are an epidemic. There’s an exception for “stacked” jeans about four inches longer than normal: Western style riders (including myself) wear them in the saddle to keep them from inching up over the boot tops in the stirrups.

  4. Khoi says:

    Fantastic article with great photographs. Absolutely love the breakdown of the outfits. Of course personal style is exactly that. It comes down to personal preference, but I feel you hit the nail on the head with many of these. I do, however, think it’s okay for a small sliver tie to show below the vest. Interesting that at Pitt Uomo, the most important International event for menswear, there were so many men making even the simplest of style mistakes. It’s quite humbling and goes to show that there’s still room to learn, even though, ‘to each his own’. Again, I loved this. Thanks for the critiques and view from your lens. Sweet tie color and pattern, btw. The yellow pop finished your look off nicely.

    Warm regards,
    Khoi

    • Sven Raphael Schneider says:

      Merci Khoi. Everyone has a different sartorial journey and there is never absolute truth, but that’s what makes it fun because it is a constant evolution even if you think you have settled on a style.

  5. Burt says:

    Thank you for the pictures and even more for the critical comments on different outfits. Much appreciated. Finally someone who puts the Pitti show in a perspective. I esp. like your observation on the less flamboyant style of the older gentlemen in pic 5 & 6. A good fit seems to be a more subtle and effective way to dress well than colour and accessoires.

  6. Alexander says:

    First, I’d like to thank you a lot for this report and the pictures. I do not need to mention that the author looks splendid as usual again, so I’d like to mention some outfits I liked best.
    I already mentioned in the interview with Mr. Bo that his overcoat is most remarkable. The cut is great, casual as a duffle-coat and yet more elegant, and flatters his frame. And then the color; a mere dream. Unusual and yet works with everything. The underestimated power of green reveals itself again.

    This also brings me to Mr. Ricci and his dark green overcoat. He has given once more a good example of how dark green can almost be as versatile and subtle as navy. Alas, the rest of his outfit is a little dark, too much black in black.

    Anyway, greetings to the author and all readers across the Atlantic

  7. Eric Toro says:

    I always enjoy your takes on Pitti, and I do plan to attend one (eventually), I like that some incorporate some individuality into their looks, it can seem ridiculous or overly ostentatious but good article and I agreed with most of what was discussed. Always love the pictures that you take.

  8. Jim Bour says:

    Overall a nice informative article. As with anything so subjective as ashion there is certainly room for some disagreement.

    Liked you outfit but the pulling, wrinkling under the arm makes it appear a little too tight & uncomfortable.

    • Sven Raphael Schneider says:

      Jim, I have very sloping shoulders and that’s the cause of the wrinkles. As the coat was not made for me, it cannot be perfect. That being said, even things made for me are not perfect. However, it feels comfortable and I enjoy wearing it.

  9. Edward says:

    Interesting and enlightening essay. I have always subscribed to, and still do, the notion that the outfit starts with the fit. So much of what passes for stylish these days seems to lack the necessary step of fitting. Not only does it look extremely unkempt, in my opinion, but the wearers of such outfits often seem to be very self-aware and unsure of themselves while sporting this look. I must say, however, that your choice for suiting was impeccable.

  10. J.R. says:

    At the age of sixty four, I’m seeing first hand, That Old is New, once again. My father gave me my first, fur collared Six Button Benny over coat when I was about nine yrs old or so. And my grand mother bestowed on me, the first custom made sport jacket, cut in a very Neopolitan soft shoulder cut, with tartan plaid wool fabric. Two items I won’t ever forget, and as I’ve told many men who ask for advice. Get a custom made jacket, just once, only then will you understand what all the chatter is about when it comes to confidence in your daily dress. Throw in the hats my Grand father the hatter supplied and I was off to a good start. And my whole card in this little adventure was the shoes I purchased based on my other Grand Fathers advice, who in fact was a bespoke shoe maker and managed an american shoe making plant, here in america, he retired about the same time, non leather soled shoes came on the market. My hatter, grand father, also retired when President Kennedy took office and guys started wearing base ball hats, and watch caps. I think they would’ve enjoyed this little glimpse from the old country, where they knew the talent for well made, and styled clothing hasn’t disappeared and from what I see, is having quite the rebirth with young gentlemen around the world. The hats the shoes and the overcoats in these photos are inspiration for the men of the trade every where. Many thanks for the wonderful coverage photos of Pitti.

  11. Michael Garcie says:

    Love the dark blue overcoat in the the 2nd picture. I think it looks so much better than black. Also like the skinny guy look and the brown of your suit.

  12. David Ricketts says:

    Most excellent…enjoyed this immensely. Good idea, your boutonniere…but the yellow was too attention getting. It was a distraction from the way your tie and coat buttons harmonized so elegantly. Otherwise, you score your normal 10.

  13. Sarvesh Khanal says:

    Hey Sven, awesome pictures and you too looked very dapper. Im getting a single breasted tweed coat and I wonder how much should the lapel cover the pocket and I’m curious about the style of buttons in the sleeve of the jacket

  14. Tanner says:

    Looks like you caught Khaled Nasr and Angel Bespoke in your photos, they are the two men in the grey suit and Camel overcoat respectively unless I am mistaken. As usual, great photos, and I love your tie.

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  1. […] and their clothes, but also for accessories. The other day, we took a closer look at the outfits at Pitti Uomo 89 but today, we want to zoom in on the sunglasses we saw on the street. Of course, just a pair of sun […]

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