Ranking Men’s RTW Shoes over $500 (28 BEST & WORST Brands!)

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Shoes are something that is often first seen when you make a first impression and, often, that is also last seen when you walk away. There’s no denying that a great pair of shoes can even elevate an average-looking outfit and, because they are the foundation of a top-notch ensemble, against the clock in order to rank ready-to-wear shoe brands $500 and above to help you find brands that work for you and your budget.

Before we get started with the grading, let’s lay down some ground rules.

1. This is just about ready-to-wear shoes at $500 and above. Some of these brands may also offer bespoke or made-to-order or something else, but we’re not looking at that. Just ready-to-wear.

2. This post is 100% not sponsored. No one paid us any money and everything we say is our opinion.

For the grading, we have A, B, C, D, and F, just like in school. 

  • A – “I’d sell my sole for these.”
  • B – “These get my toes tapping.”
  • C – “I’d buy them on sale.”
  • D – “It’s this or Wellingtons.”
  • F – “Only just better than sandwich bags.”
Everything we say is our opinion. (Pictured: Light Blue Linen Pocket Square with Blue Handrolled Cross X Stitch from Fort Belvedere)
Everything we say is our opinion. (Pictured: Light Blue Linen Pocket Square with Blue Handrolled Cross X Stitch from Fort Belvedere)

What I’ll be presenting today, though, are not in-depth reviews. These are just quick takes on the brands with a quick grade and an explanation. For more in-depth reviews, check out our Is It Worth It? series.

I try to be as objective as I can but, ultimately, these are my subjective, personal opinions even though I’ve learned a lot over the years, I’ve seen many shoes, I cut them apart, I visited factories, I visited bespoke shoemakers, and so I know a lot more than the average person does about fine men’s dress shoes. So, without further ado, let’s jump right in.

28 Shoe Brands Over $500: 1. Alden (C+)

The well-known American shoe manufacturer Alden is renowned for their Horween Cordovan shoes. No, they don’t just make cordovan. They also have calf leather, but most people just know them for that.

A selection of Alden shoes
A selection of Alden shoes

I’d say, overall, it’s a good quality shoe in classic lasts. Maybe a bit chunky with a hint of a grandpa caché. And, at their price, I think they’re a bit high for my tastes, but it’s not exorbitant. So, overall, maybe a B- for quality, but, let’s say, C+ if you consider the price. I’d buy them on sale.

2. Allen Edmonds: Independence Collection (B-)

Most Allen Edmonds are below $500 retail, but the Independence Collection is above the threshold. Everyone on our team has had extensive experience with Allen Edmonds for years. I visited their factory. I’ve had several pairs of shoes, including a pair from their Independence Collection.

Compared to their regular line, they use nicer, higher-quality leathers. The sole leather is Joh Rendenbach and their lining is a soft lambskin. Contrary to popular belief, especially online, the manufacturing quality of Allen Edmonds shoes has remained very consistent throughout the years. Yes, the latest shoes with a new label are pretty much the same as the one that was made 30 years ago. We know this as we took apart six different Allen Edmonds shoes that spend a production period of five decades.

Allen Edmonds Park Avenue Oxfords in black
Allen Edmonds Park Avenue Oxfords in black

If I had to choose one word to describe Allen Edmonds shoes, I would call them “dependable.” I think most of their lasts aren’t very refined or elegant. That being said, when they try to go that way, their core customers almost abandon them.

So, with any successful company, you have to listen to your customers. I think for many men in the US, Allen Edmonds are a good, Goodyear-welted, starter shoe and there is absolutely nothing wrong with that.

In my book, their main line is maybe a C or C-. Their Independence line is a little better, maybe a C+. Nathan on our team would rate them a B+ and an A- on sale. There you have it. There is some subjectivity in grading these shoes.

3. Altan (C+)

Altan is a brand from Paris, which was founded in 1973. Parisian shoes are always a bit more fashion-forward. They have longer. very elegant lasts and Altan really specializes in custom patinas. So, most of their ready-to-wear shoes are crust leather and, when you buy them, they add the patina that you want.

They’re extremely good. They do suede patinas. They do calf leather patinas, but also patent leather patinas, which is highly unusual.

Raphael's pair of Altan shoes in a custom patina
Raphael’s pair of Altan shoes in a custom patina

Because their Parisian brand and Paris is very expensive in general, their shoes are more expensive, too. I’ve had a pair from them for a few years and they added a custom patina, a nice brown with a yellow undertone.

I would probably rate them as C+, I’d buy them on sale, because, otherwise, they’re quite pricey. 

4. Edward Green (B+)

Edward Green offers a fantastic range of classic men’s dress shoes. The leathers are top-notch, their styling is very elegant, and their price is to match. I think you could easily put together a nice gentleman’s shoe wardrobe just made out of Edward Green shoes. 

My beef is with a heel. First of all, I think it’s not as tall as I’d like it to be, especially for a shoe in the price range. Typically, bespoke shoes at a higher heel than, let’s say, most ready-to-wear shoes. Also, I think the heel balance, oftentimes, is not 100% right where you want when the heel is flat in the back, that it just touches the ball in the front. I also don’t see that with Allen Edmonds for example, but Edward Green is a lot more expensive.

Raphael doesn't like the heel height and balance of Edward Green shoes
Raphael doesn’t like the heel height and balance of Edward Green shoes

Priced between $1,285 to $1,600, you can almost get a bespoke shoe for that. In fact, here in the US, I can. Also in Italy, you can get a hand-welted shoe rather than a Goodyear-welted shoe from Edward Green.

Jack absolutely loves Edward Green so, in his book, they’re an A. In my book, they’re more of a B+.

5. John Lobb Paris (C)

John Lobb Paris is a ready-to-wear line, and we’ve reviewed their offerings in-depth in our Is It Worth It? series. In a nutshell, they use quality materials. They have very elegant lasts. They’re not too drastic. They’re not very many details in the shoe, but you have a very high price tag. It’s a factory shoe, Goodyear-welted.

John Lobb Lopez loafers in tan suede (Pictured: Grey Blue & Prussian Blue Two Tone Solid Oxford Socks from Fort Belvedere)
John Lobb Lopez loafers in tan suede (Pictured: Grey Blue & Prussian Blue Two Tone Solid Oxford Socks from Fort Belvedere)

I give it a C because I’d only buy it steeply discounted because I think you can find other brands that cost less, that are just as good or better.

6. Crockett & Jones (B-)

Crockett & Jones is another British heritage brand from Northampton. They offer a wide selection of well-made footwear and they’re definitely above starter level. I find their styling to be pleasing overall, and they have a wide range of lasts, which is advantageous because you can find something that fits your foot well apart.

The Barrington 2, a semi brogue oxford from Crockett & Jones' Hand Grade Collection
The Barrington 2, a semi brogue oxford from Crockett & Jones’ Hand Grade Collection

From their main line, they have the Hand Grade Collection, which is step up, which I find particularly nice. I noticed, in recent years, their prices have gone up. Maybe it has something to do with them getting more popular because James Bond was wearing Crockett & Jones in the latest movies.

Grading-wise, I would say the main line is a C+, the Hand Grade is probably a B+.

7. George Cleverley (B)

George Cleverley is usually known as a high-end bespoke shoemaker famed for their chisel toe. They also have a range of ready-to-wear shoes and no, they’re not made in their bespoke workshop but at a factory in England.

George Cleverley shoes allow a bespoke feel at a budget-friendly cost
George Cleverley shoes allow a bespoke feel at a budget-friendly cost

What I really like about George Cleverley ready-to-wear shoes is that their styles are often inspired by bespoke shoes. There’s a lot more personality than in the typical English shoe from Northampton. Also, they were very nicely slimmed-down waist, which gives you that bespoke feel on a ready-to-wear budget of around $650. But, sometimes, you can also find them at 50% off, for example, at Mr. Porter. At those prices, they sell quickly so you’ve got to be on your toes.

I rate them a B because they get my toes tapping!

8. Gaziano & Girling (A-)

Right on to Gaziano & Girling, another English shoemaker. They may be known as the first bespoke shoemaker on Savile Row, but they also have a very nice ready-to-wear line. Typically, they focus on ready-to-wear shoes with much sharper lines, yet there’s definitely a British heritage in them.

Some of the shoes in Gaziano & Girling's ready-to-wear line
Some of the shoes in Gaziano & Girling’s ready-to-wear line

Overall, they have a unique look to them that is very high-end. They’re also really good at creating beautiful patinas on a shoe. All of that comes at a price starting with $800 going all the way up to $1,300. Bear in mind, this is still a factory shoe and yes, you get more of a bespoke look, but it’s definitely a value buy.

Jack absolutely loves them. In his book, they’re an A- or an A if they’re on sale. In my mind, they’re maybe between an A and a B because they’re quite pricey.

Gaziano & Girling shoes can range from $800-$1300
Gaziano & Girling shoes can range from $800-$1300

That being said, they have these unique stylings that you don’t get from anywhere else and, if you love that, go for it. But, of course, if you can’t afford it, there are lots of other brands that provide nice shoes at a much lower price point.

9. Jeffery West (D)

Jeffery West is another shoemaker from Northampton. But, their shoes are definitely a lot more fashion-forward. Some people may call them “interesting.” Even though they’re a fashion shoe, the quality is not too bad. They’re still Goodyear-welted shoes and they’ve done collaborations with music groups, such as Muse. So, if you like that, I think the brand is pretty good for you.

Different stylish shoes from Jeffery West
Different stylish shoes from Jeffery West

For me, personally and what we typically do in a Gentleman’s Gazette, they’re a bit out there. So, personally it’s more of a D, unless you like that style, then I think it’s a C or even a B.

10. Church’s (C-)

Another well-rounded Northampton shoemaker is Church’s. My first black cap-toe Oxfords came from Church’s, inspired by Bernhard Roetzel, who raved about their shoes in his book “Gentlemen.” They’ve been taken over by the Prada Group and, as such, they introduced chunky, rubber soles and styles that don’t really go well with this elegant, British, refined look, at least in my book.

Church's Mc Pherson Lw Derby Brogue Shoes with chunky soles
Church’s Mc Pherson Lw Derby Brogue Shoes with chunky soles

As you might have imagined though, prices have started to climb after they took over. So, today, I would rate Church’s probably C-. And no, I would not buy those rubber soles even if they were on sale. I’m just talking about the leather soles.

11. Ed. Meier (C)

Ed Meier is a brand from Munich, Germany, which most people in the US probably have never heard of. What’s special about them is that they have an asymmetrical last that is supposed to be better, anatomically, for your foot when you walk.

If you look at the latest edition of “Gentlemen,” Bernhard Roetzel now recommends Ed-Meier over Church’s. I’ve tried on some of their shoes at their store and walked around in them a little bit, but I never owned a pair long term. Therefore, it’s hard for me to grade.

They have different lines. They have the RedTongue line, which is very expensive – over a thousand dollars, the GreenTongue, which is a little less expensive – closer to a thousand dollars, and then the Blue line, which is over $500.

So, overall, I’d say they are definitely more on the expensive side. I give it an A for innovation. Probably more like a D or D- on price. Overall, that’s what I can grade. The rest is hard to tell because I haven’t really experienced it for a long time. That being said, if you’re in Munich, definitely check it out. It’s a beautiful store.

12. Enzo Bonafè (A-)

Let’s move a little further south to Enzo Bonafè in Bologna, Italy. They’ve been making nice shoes since 1963. They’re really a wide range of lasts and shoe styles, including opera pumps and button boots. And, of course, they have that elegant Italian understanding, so the shoes look really sexy.

An array of Enzo Bonafè button boots
An array of Enzo Bonafè button boots

They have a high-quality level of workmanship. They offer different construction methods. They have a strong made-to-order program. They also do wholesale for other companies, and it is a great maker.

I would rate them anywhere between A and B. They’re not cheap, but they are really well-made shoes from Italy.

13. Salvatore Ferragamo (D)

Another much more well-known brand is Salvatore Ferragamo from Italy. I would say, overall, the shoe quality is not bad.

Ferragamo shoes come at extravagant prices; shown here is an oxford shoe worth $1,590
Ferragamo shoes come at extravagant prices; shown here is an oxford shoe worth $1,590

I’d probably rate it a C. Their price, though, is off-the-charts high so, in my mind, the pricing is an F. Overall, it comes out to a D. Nathan has worn a loafer for them extensively and the horsebit always rattles, so he also rates it a D.

14. Gucci (C-)

Yet another Italian brand is Gucci. Obviously, it’s a well-renowned brand and the Gucci horsebit loafers are probably their most recognized shoe. I’ve tried theirs, I’ve walked in them, and I made an in-depth review of them.

When I reviewed it, I was positively surprised that it was actually a quality Blake-stitched shoe. I would have expected less. Yet, the price of over $600 is high, but it’s also not astronomically high like many others.

Gucci Horsebit Loafer, model 1953.
Gucci Horsebit Loafer, model 1953.
Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Lapis Lazuli Balls - 925 Sterling Silver Gold Plated

Fort Belvedere

Eagle Claw Cufflinks with Lapis Lazuli Balls – 925 Sterling Silver Gold Plated

Madder Silk Tie in Dark Blue, Light Blue and Red Macclesfield Neats

Fort Belvedere

Madder Silk Tie in Dark Blue, Light Blue and Red Macclesfield Neats

So, construction is maybe a C. Pricing is probably D+. So, overall, somewhere between C and D, in my book. Of course, it’s an iconic look. But, if you’re interested in maybe a lower vamp shoe, you can check out other brands like Jay Butler for example, which is a bit more preppy in my mind.

15. Tod’s (D)

Tod’s is another Italian brand and, again, they’re really well-known for their driving mocs. They’re a classic, they come in many colors, and they’re a fun shoe. Now, they’re not designed to last you 15-20 years of hard wear because you’ll just walk holes in them.

Tod’s blue driving mocs as worn by Raphael
Tod’s blue driving mocs as worn by Raphael

Priced at over $500. It’s just expensive and, even though the leather is nice and soft, because you wear them out so quickly, I give them an overall D because $500 for this is just insane. You can even go so far to say it’s a straight F because it’s just way too much for what you get. 

16. Baudoin & Lange (C-)

Baudoin & Lange is an English shoe brand from London. Very well-known for their Belgian loafers. This is a bit of a tricky one. Jack and Nathan on our team really like them. Personally, I hate them. I mean, just look at them. Aren’t they plain ugly? Frankly, when I look at those, I just want to puke.

Even though they specialize in those Belgian loafers, they also have a few boots on offer. But, overall, Belgian loafers are what this brand is about. It’s an all-night shoe. People rave that they’re really comfortable, but the look just doesn’t cut it. Anyway, as the saying goes it’s all in the eye of the beholder.

The Sagan Grand penny loafer from Baudoin & Lange
The Sagan Grand penny loafer from Baudoin & Lange

Overall, in my book, they’re a D or an F. I know Jack and Nathan would rate him a lot higher, but I can’t get over how they look.

17. Tricker’s (C)

Tricker’s is another English shoemaker from Northampton. They have a Royal Warrant from His Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales, and they really have a much more rugged look.

Their eyelets are reinforced with metal and their lasts are a bit more chunky. But, I think they’re perfect for this English country look. They go well with tweed, corduroys, and thornproofs, and that’s what you get their shoes for. They have very good boots with triple leather soles, and I have one of those.

Raphael's Tricker's boots (Pictured: Dark Charcoal Boot Laces Round Waxed Cotton from Fort Belvedere)
Raphael’s Tricker’s boots (Pictured: Dark Charcoal Boot Laces Round Waxed Cotton from Fort Belvedere)

There definitely is a break-in period required but, once you’ve done that, they’re really comfortable and just different looking than other shoes or boots in my wardrobe.

They’re not cheap, but any company that has a Royal Warrant has higher prices. In my book, I rate them a C, I’d buy them on sale.

18. Saint Crispin’s (B+)

Saint Crispin’s is an interesting brand because they offer bespoke shoes but also ready-to-wear that is hand-welted, not Goodyear-welted. So, there’s actually a person who makes those shoes just like they would with a bespoke shoe.

So, first of all, they have to use a high-quality leather insole that they channel and then sew everything together. That takes a lot more time, but it is also a much higher level of craftsmanship.

Saint Crispin's signature hollow shoe trees [Image Credit: Permanent Style]
Saint Crispin’s signature hollow shoe trees [Image Credit: Permanent Style]

They’re made in Romania, where labor costs are low and they retail for $1,200 to $1,500, which is quite high. But, for that, you also get their famous hollow shoe trees, which are just beautiful. 

You also get a range of interesting leathers, details, and designs. They’re not afraid to think outside of the box and have interesting patterns on their uppers or maybe a cap toe with a different hand stitching on the uppers. Stuff like that is typical for Saint Crispin’s.

Raphael's pair of Saint Crispin's suede boots (Pictured: Mid Brown Socks with Green and Cream Clocks from Fort Belvedere)
Raphael’s pair of Saint Crispin’s suede boots (Pictured: Mid Brown Socks with Green and Cream Clocks from Fort Belvedere)

I’ve had a pair of shoes and boots from them. They’re very dependable. They’re not super fashion-forward, but they’re also not that typical Austro-Hungarian last style. They’re somewhat in between and their make is more like bespoke so a higher price is warranted.

Overall, I’d rate them a B or B+. Nice shoes.

19. Santoni (D-)

Santoni is a brand, to me, that you typically find in higher-end department stores or haberdashers. They’re definitely better than the stuff you’d get at a DSW, but they also have a much higher price tag.

Often, they’re more fashion-forward and have pointy lasts so, for a fashion-y shoe, they have a good Blake construction. But, they are also priced over a thousand dollars and, for that, you can get shoes that look a lot better and are also made better. If you get them at a steep discount and you like the way they feel, by all means, go for them. 

Santoni leather penny loafers
Santoni leather penny loafers

But, typically, I would say this is more of a D-.

20. Bally (D+)

Bally brands themselves as Bally of Switzerland and, typically, that means for brands things are not made in Switzerland. So, I was surprised when I read on their website that all their shoes are actually still made in Switzerland.

Switzerland has a much higher GDP per capita than the US does, so of course, everything that’s made in Switzerland is going to be expensive.

A pair of Bally double-monk strap shoes
A pair of Bally double-monk strap shoes

I used to have a chocolate brown monk strap shoe from them and it’s somewhat an unusual last. At the time, I bought them on sale. But, would I have bought them again today? No. There are a lot nicer shoes out there. I remember they were padded, so they’re comfortable to walk in. They had the foam insert, but it was not a super high-quality shoe.

At $700, I think there are much better value alternatives out there. Because of that, maybe a D+. 

21. Ludwig Reiter (C)

Ludwig Reiter is an interesting brand. It doesn’t get a lot of coverage in the US but, if you like the Viennese, Central, Austro-Hungarian, this type of last, for a ready-to-wear shoe, they have great offerings and selections for you.

My first new pair of Goodyear-welted shoes came from Ludwig Reiter. I bought them probably in 2003 and I still have them today. They’re still going strong, so it’s definitely a quality pair of shoes.

Raphael's pair of Ludwig Reiter Goodyear welted shoes
Raphael’s pair of Ludwig Reiter Goodyear welted shoes
Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Navy Blue and Red Fil d'Ecosse Cotton

Fort Belvedere

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Navy Blue and Red Fil d'Ecosse Cotton

Dark Cognac Shoelaces Round - Waxed Cotton Dress Shoe Laces Luxury

Fort Belvedere

Dark Cognac Shoelaces Round – Waxed Cotton Dress Shoe Laces Luxury

I think you can get a similar aesthetic often from László Vass, which I will talk about later. Vass shoes are hand-welted. Ludwig Reiter is Goodyear-welted. But, it’s still a good shoe. It’s a factory shoe but, if you want a slightly more unusual style that is not as extreme, then this might be for you.

In my mind, they’re a C, I’d buy them on sale.

22. Stubbs & Wootton (C+)

Stubbs & Wootton from Palm Beach in Florida are an interesting company because they’re really not a shoe company, but an Albert slipper company. More specifically, a bold Albert slipper company.

All the shoes are made in Spain and they retail at  $575. It seems quite high for an Albert slipper and it is. Nevertheless, they were able to build up a cult following. So, why is that? Basically, because they’re super creative. They have interesting needlepoint patterns, they have really cool embroidery, and just come up with unusual designs that people love and, often, they become collectors.

A pair of Stubbs & Wootton Albert slipper with a pocket watch design
A pair of Stubbs & Wootton Albert slipper with a pocket watch design

Quality-wise, it is a glued shoe like most Albert slippers and, while most English Albert slippers have a quilted fabric lining that is padded, Stubbs & Wootton have a leather lining, which I like because it actually keeps your foot drier.

If it was for the design alone, I would give Stubbs & Wootton an A. However, at over $500, they’re quite pricey and, if you look at the product, it’s not Goodyear welted. It’s a glued shoe. The workmanship is not super clean. You could find paint areas or things where it’s not properly glued. I also find that, for a leather-lined shoe, you sweat quite a bit in them, which is something I don’t like.

Stubbs & Wootton's leather lining on an Albert slipper up close
Stubbs & Wootton’s leather lining on an Albert slipper up close

So, overall, I rate it more of a B- to a C+.

23. Grenson (D+)

Grenson is another English shoemaker from Northampton that is a bit more fashion-forward, but not as much as Jeffery West. They also have their classic styles, but they’re definitely priced more on the higher-end.

Personally, I find zero reasons why I would go with Grenson compared to the other Northampton shoemakers. They don’t have nicer lasts, nicer leathers, or a better construction. They just have a higher price.

A pair of suede Chelsea boots from Grenson
A pair of suede Chelsea boots from Grenson

Compared to Crockett & Jones, for example, I would choose Crockett & Jones any day over Grenson. So, because of that, Grenson, to me, is more of a D, maybe a D+.

24. Saint Laurent (D-)

So, what about Saint Laurent shoes? I know some people really swear by them but, if you’re a regular here on Gentleman’s Gazette, you know that we don’t care about these fashion brands that typically have the design, all the while providing a lower-end quality. (D-)

Saint Laurent lace-up ankle boots
Saint Laurent lace-up ankle boots

25. Corthay (C)

Another good example is Maison Corthay from Paris. I was first exposed to their shoes in, I think, about 2004 through my friend Carl. We went to their store, so we met Pierre Corthay and his brother, had a nice chat, tried many shoes, and saw their beautiful Arca shoes.

At the time, I had never seen a beautiful blue patina or like yellow and orange and it was just mind-blowing. Also, the Arca shoe was just beautiful. Looking at it, it had this long, French, elongated last with that nice, slim chisel. It just looked exquisite.

Corthay's Arca shoes come in beautifully colored patinas and slim chiseled lasts
Corthay’s Arca shoes come in beautifully colored patinas and slim chiseled lasts

When I put the shoes on and looked down, I was actually surprised. Why? Well, it made me feel like I was wearing cowboy boots. Really, it looked just like that from the top. For some reason, that created this kind of mental blockage and I would just never wear their shoes.

Today, they retail for $850, and even Arcas, I think, back then, were €750. It’s a factory-made shoe. They also have bespoke shoes, which are rather expensive. You know, six, seven thousand. All the way up to $15,000. So, if you want that look, you can get it RTW for a lot less, but you’re paying for it.

It’s definitely a more fashion-forward shoe, but the quality is good. With a high price tag, my grade would be a C, I’d buy them on sale, if I find something that works for me and doesn’t make me feel like I’m wearing cowboy boots.

26. Vass Shoes (A)

Vass is spelled V-a-s-s, but it’s called “Vash.” I visited their store in Budapest in 2006 when I was doing an internship in Budapest. Their shoes are hand-welted and the level of craftsmanship was quite high and on par with their bespoke shoes. They also offer ready-to-wear shoes.

I remember, at the time, most of their lasts were quite chunky, Austro-Hungarian, and had a high toe, large broguing, wingtips, and it was something that was interesting but, ultimately, not something that I was looking for.

The late Italian bespoke shoemaker Roberto Ugolini
The late Italian bespoke shoemaker Roberto Ugolini

At some point, the Japanese department store Isetan introduced the Italian bespoke shoemaker Roberto Ugolini to Vass; Ugolini (in addition to being an acclaimed bespoke shoemaker in his own right) created the U-last and the F-last for Lászlo Vass.

I think if you go to their website you can see that most models are either the U-last or the F-last, which are the most popular ones.

Frankly, when you go to the website, it’s sometimes hard to find shoes above $500 even though they’re all hand-welted from high-quality leathers. Some boots and other shoes hit that $500 threshold, which is why we include them here.

Overall, I think Vass offers a phenomenal price for a hand-welted shoe and it’s a straight-A in my book. If you like a more chiseled toe, go with a U-last. For something more rounded, the F-last is great. If you want the traditional Austro-Hungarian look, Vass has got you covered.

Note: a previous version of this article erroneously stated that Roberto Ugolini was deceased, but he is very much alive. In fact, it was another Florentine bespoke shoemaker, Stefano Bemer, who passed away in 2012. We wish Mr. Ugolini continued success!

27. Heinrich Dinkelacker (C+)

Another interesting brand most Americans probably have never heard of is Heinrich Dinkelacker. Even though it’s a German name, these shoes are handmade in Hungary and they start with a retail price of around $645 going over a thousand, depending on the leathers and styles.

Raphael's pair of Heinrich Dinkelacker winter boots (Pictured: Navy and Yellow Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks from Fort Belvedere)
Raphael’s pair of Heinrich Dinkelacker winter boots (Pictured: Navy and Yellow Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks from Fort Belvedere)

They really are the traditional Austro-Hungarian look that I mentioned from Vass. They’re also more expensive than Vass. That being said, I have a pair of Heinrich Dinkelacker winter boots in a beautiful gray hatch grain that is patina’d and it’s warm because it has that fur lining. And whenever I wear these boots, I get compliments.

Unlike most British, Italian, or French shoes, the look is very distinctive, rugged, and bold. If you like thick soles, I think it’s for you. But, because they’re priced so high, I would, overall, rate them as C, maybe C+.

28. Alfred Sargent/Paul Sargent (B-)

Last but not least, there’s Alfred Sargent, a brand that, in the 90s, was more on the budget-end of Goodyear-welted, English shoes. But, by 2010, they had transitioned and went upmarket. In my mind, that resulted in a much more elegant shoe.

In 2012, I reviewed their Moore model in like an antique cherry. It was an aniline Oxford with a somewhat chiseled toe that wasn’t too extreme. The heel was somewhat elevated. The waist was elegant. Overall, it was a really nice shoe.

The Alfred Sargent Moore model oxfords
The Alfred Sargent Moore model oxfords

While the original Alfred Sargent company was liquidated in 2021, the Sargent family has now begun producing shoes under the Paul Sargent banner. I think in terms of looks, Edward Green, overall, is maybe a notch or two above Sargent, but they’re still very good. Also, the heel is much nicer than Crockett & Jones, for example. That’s why I like them more than Crockett & Jones.

So, overall, I’d grade them a B-, around the same level as a Crockett & Jones’ Hand Grade line.

Conclusion

Obviously, there are lots of other brands above $500 that make shoes. And I’ve seen their shoes, have held them, and even tried them on but, ultimately, I haven’t really worn them. So, I can’t fully grade them. So, hopefully, that can change in the future.

The complete ranking chart for Men's $500 RTW Shoe Brands
The complete ranking chart for Men’s $500 RTW Shoe Brands

If there are other brands we missed, let us know and maybe we can make another ranking post. Let us know as well if want to see something in the $300 to $500 range or $500 to $800 or even above a thousand. We already have the best dress shoes under $300, and you may find our rating of shoes brand interesting.

Best Men’s Dress Shoes Under $300

Outfit Rundown

Today, I’m wearing a combination of mostly green and brown tones with some hints of orange and red. My jacket is a custom jacket with three patch pockets. It wasn’t made for me, and I picked it off eBay. There’s a really nice color depth of beige and browns with some slubs, and it’s a mix of linen and wool. I paired it with a green, checked shirt and a sweater vest or sleeveless cardigan in a kind of oatmeal-colored wool. It’s a vintage piece just like my tie, which has tones of orange and red.

I’m combining it with a pocket square from Fort Belvedere, which picks up the tones of green for my pants and orange and red, so it harmonizes, but still provides enough contrast on the jacket. You can find them in our shop. My socks are in an oatmeal brown and beige tone and they contrast with my green Polo Ralph Lauren corduroys. They’re quite olive green in a somewhat wider wale.

Raphael in an outfit featuring brown, green, and orange tones (Pictured: Brick Red Pocket Square Art Deco Egyptian Scarab pattern from Fort Belvedere)
Raphael in an outfit featuring brown, green, and orange tones (Pictured: Brick Red Pocket Square Art Deco Egyptian Scarab pattern from Fort Belvedere)

My shoes are from Altan in Paris. It’s an unusual monk strap and it has this beautiful brown patina. Most people would probably not notice the custom patina at first. But, at second glance, you can definitely see it, especially in the back and in the front. This is not something you get from regular wear on your shoes. Because the buckles are silver, I chose a silver ring with a grayish-green hawk’s eye stone.

What’s your favorite shoe brand above $500? Which brands do you like or dislike? Comment down below!

Reader Comments

    1. Their top shoes retail at $475, which might explain their absence.

  1. Personally, I’d place St. Crispin’s at the very top of the above list. Their lasts, styling, hand workmanship and leathers are a cut above any of the others, including Vass, not to mention their exclusivity. Due to the constraints imposed by their hand workmanship, St. Crispin’s is limited to making 1,500 pairs a year.

    Also worth noting is that Enzo Bonafe also makes a range of lighter, more flexible shoes using a form of hand lasted, Blake method of construction. These are my favourite summer shoes.

  2. Hi Sven. Thank you for the article. One note, though. The guys in Rushden (No.28) would really appreciate it if you changed the name they no longer go by to Paul Sargent Shoes. They still produce exactly the same shoes as before but they did undergo a change which resulted in the new brand name. I know it firsthand they would really appreciate it if you could do it. Many thanks!

  3. Love and appreciate these “ranking” posts & videos! They provide so many new brands to check out. Thanks vy much!

  4. I’ve now aged into size 15 feet, from 14 30 years ago (it’s not just nose, earlobes and belly!). Allen Edmonds will do my sizes. Any of these others they rate higher? As a 6’4” bug guy, I want walking comfort.

  5. The list is interesting but fails to explain the huge quality variations that exist in brands like Santoni and Ferragamo. Santoni makes many nice goodyear and blake rapid shoes. The lower lines have leathers that don’t age very well. Ferragamo outsources its production. I have bad experience with their lower lines. The tramezza line is made by Paolo Scafora, I have heard.
    Edward Green (and C&J) uses a low heel on many models. It might not be the sharpest choice, but you should evaluate how it affects your stability, posture and overall walking experience.  My low heel EG Chelsea’s are unexciting but also the most comfortable dress shoes I own. For someone else, the best choice might be different. Anyway, things like heel height, waist width, and sole width should not simply be style choices.
    I have a pair of Lobb’s from 10 years ago and the leather is phenomenal, the best I have seen in a mass produced shoe. The shoes are “simple”, but incredibly sturdy. Maybe their quality has gone down (I really don’t know) but no way my pair is inferior to any Alden or Allen Edmonds, even considering the price.
    Does Allen Edmonds still offers the Independence Collection?
    Alfred Sargent has closed and reborn under another name.
    I would like to see you test Church’s the way you did Allen Edmonds.

  6. Would like to see your thoughts and review on Stefano Bemer. While made in Italy, they now have a New York office the shoes route through.

  7. And What about important brands such as Carmina Shoemakers, Testoni or Sutor Mantellassi among others?

    Sorry, but I think this lista is incomplete and there are brands that doesn’t deserve to be and others should.

  8. This was a bold article. It reminds me of Stereophile’s report card oriented equipment reviews back in the 1990s. They provided a “manufacturers’ replies” section and they go ALOT of blowback. It might be interesting if you did the same.

    I wish you had commented on width availability from each of these makers. I’m a B, borderline A, and I can order my width through Allen Edmonds. So, I’m an Allen Edmonds man. What I learned from this article is that I should be pretty happy about that.

  9. I have a pair of Church’s brogues I bought in 1995. They made great shoes back then.

  10. My Grandfather wore Grensons, my Father wore Grensons and I wear them. They are a quality shoe finely made as have a tradition that goes back centuries here in England. When buying shoes we go to Northampton even the football team is nicknamed the Cobblers. I think you have given the English shoes makers a bit of a shoe-in on here. While I agree with your assessment of Churches, since Prada has just turned the brand into a tacky version of Prada. I’ve got Churches from years ago that look as good now as they did when I bought them.

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