The influence that Italy has had on classic menswear is evident in everything from the soft shoulders of summer sport coats to the Milanese buttonhole on high-end suits. It’s also apparent in terms used by menswear enthusiasts, such as sprezzatura and spezzato, which we’ve covered in previous posts. Today, we’ll add another Italian “S” word to our menswear vocabulary, scorpacciata.
What is Scorpacciata?
This term typically refers to a sort of seasonal indulgence. In particular, the celebration of food that happens to be in season at any given time. For example, in Italy, chestnuts are harvested in late October, and around this time, many villages and towns will have a festival or Sagra to celebrate it. The chestnuts are often served roasted in paper cones or ground into flour and turned into cake, studded with pine nuts or crepes filled with sweet ricotta cheese. Everyone will indulge in this great seasonal bounty, and then, with the season, it ends.
The same goes for things like olives, grapes, asparagus, or strawberries. They can also be bought out of season in supermarkets, but people will try to avoid this, and there isn’t really the same sense of indulging in the food and digging in with gusto as there is when things are in peak season. But of course, with a few exceptions, we’re not really experts in food.
![Roasted chestnuts in a paper cone [Image Credit: Local Food and Wine]](https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/chestnuts.webp "Chestnuts")
How does Scorpacciata relate to clothing?
Essentially, scorpacciata in menswear means really savoring different types of clothes that are especially appropriate for a given season. Now, for those who are new to menswear or who don’t really care much about style, the ideal garment is probably going to be the all-season suit.
These suits are typically made of mid-weight worsted wool and can be purchased and then worn all year-long indiscriminately. And for the especially casual, a pair of something like denim jeans might fall into the same category. You can wear them year-round, and they’re versatile enough to pair with almost any casual outfit so you don’t have to think about introducing a lot of variety. However, anyone who is seasonally inclined will relish the chance to wear different things in the winter, spring, summer, and fall seasons.
When the weather starts getting cool, a menswear aficionado might look forward to wearing flannels and tweed sport coats with cashmere ties in the same way that a foodie looks forward to white truffle season.
Conversely, when the weather warms up, he then gets excited about the opportunity to wear linen, loafers, and Panama hats again. This is reflected in his wardrobe as he’ll have collections of clothes for the warm season and the cold season as well as a number of transitional pieces that can be worn equally well when things are in between.
Main Appeals to Scorpacciata
1. It’s Temporary
Because each season has a start and an end, you find the limited time in which you can wear certain garments well to be more precious and thus you can relish wearing certain garments for a few months at a time and then put them away until next year.
2. Garments Stay In A Cycle
On the opposite side of this coin though, another big appeal to the concept is that even though things are temporary, they’re in a rigid cycle. So, even though you have to appreciate wearing certain garments in a given season, when you put them away, you can look forward to that same season next year as well and get the same sense of renewed pleasure year after year and season after season.
What Seasonality In Menswear Isn’t
We should point out here that dressing for the season doesn’t mean following fashions in this context. Oftentimes, when we hear the phrase dressing for the season we think of the latest fashions that might have come down runways but this is really something more within the realm of cutting-edge or high-fashion, which is somewhat opposite to the more classically based world of menswear.
So, you can still follow the philosophy of scorpacciata without following what’s in, in any given year. The key is remembering that you’re dressing for any summer or any winter and not being dictated by fashion houses trying to sell you the latest trends.
Seasonality At Different Times of The Year
1. Warm Weather
Dressing for the spring and summer months means a focus on staying cool and having maximum air circulation with your outfits. This would involve things like changing the fabrics you’re going to wear to high twist or tropical wools, frescos, and linens for pants, as well as for jackets. Warm weather typically calls for brighter colors, too. So, you might put more of an emphasis on wearing white like white pants or a white dinner jacket, for example, or go for things like brighter blues and put away your dark navies.
It also means being more casual. This is the time to abandon neckwear and open up your shirt collar. Instead of wearing a full suit, you could wear a combination of a sport coat or blazer with odd trousers, and instead of a conventional button-up, you could opt for a polo shirt.
2. Cold Weather
For cold-weather dressing, your priorities are just the opposite–staying warm and often staying dry in the autumn and winter months. Seasonality here is perhaps a little bit more pronounced, and everybody is probably going to do it; things like putting on boots or an overcoat or gloves when it’s cold out.
However, there are also more subtle changes to incorporate into your wardrobe that the connoisseur of scorpacciata will appreciate. The colder seasons are your time to master the art of layering with things like sweaters and vests. And of course, winter is great for textures as well. Anything that looks particularly woolly is fair game.
There’s no need to rely on the standard all-season printed silk tie or super 110s worsted wool suit. You could try a flannel suit or a tweed jacket and a cashmere tie instead.
Dressing for Months Within The Seasons
For the true expert, there are also degrees of difference within a particular season. For example, in late May, you might wear a navy blue wool and linen blend sport coat, but on a hot sunny day in August, this would seem dark and uncomfortable, so that you might opt for a cream linen sport coat instead.
In May, you could wear a jacket with a lining, but in the dog days of August, you’re probably going to want to go for an unlined jacket that has an open weave.
You could wear a knitted vest under a suit in December, but in February, you could go for a cardigan sweater with sleeves.
Conclusion
The true beauty of scorpacciata is not only getting variation between seasons but also within seasons. So, we hope that alongside sprezzatura and spezzato, scorpacciata is a great addition to your menswear lexicon. Ultimately, just like dressing for any given occasion, dressing for the season is about looking correct in your surroundings.
Even though the old fashioned rule of not wearing white after Labor Day doesn’t have to be observed anymore, wearing white linen in the winter or, for that matter, wearing a charcoal three-piece suit in August is something ultimately akin to eating watermelon in January. You can do it, but if you adopt a bit more patience, you can savor the given seasonality of things just a bit more. Whenever someone happens to compliment your flannels in the winter or linen in the summer, remember to spread the word and tell them all about the joys of scorpacciata.
Is seasonal fashion something you enjoy? Would you (or would you not) practice scorpaciatta? Let us know in the comments!
Outfit Rundown
I’ve attempted to introduce a bit of this specific seasonality into my outfit. This is most readily apparent in my summer sport coat which is in a tan color and in linen in a herringbone weave. Most of the other elements in my outfit are incorporating something of a warm color feel.
We can start here with my pastel pink shirt which has a bit of warmth but also a light and breezy color that’s appropriate for summer when we are filming this video. My trousers are plain brown but they do have a bit of a red undertone and my shoes from Ace Marks which are whole cut Oxfords have a bit of an oxblood color with a hand-painted patina.
As you can see, I’ve gone tieless today to be comfortable in the warmer weather and the remaining elements of my outfit are all from Fort Belvedere. We can start here with my pocket square which is also in linen. It’s in a particularly open weave and features burgundy and white threads and also has a hand-rolled white x stitch. My cornflower boutonniere is in magenta and white for a slightly bolder pop of color that I wanted to incorporate because I’m not wearing a tie and I did want a bolder element of interest up toward my face.
My cufflinks are platinum plated sterling silver in an eagle claw design featuring red carnelian as the stone to harmonize with many of the other reddish elements throughout the outfit. My shadow striped socks are in gray and burgundy red and my belt is part of our new Fort Belvedere belt system. The belt itself is in bordeaux burgundy calf leather and the buckle is the model we’re calling the Jasper which has a rounded shape. It’s in a silver color to harmonize with the metal in my cufflinks.
Scorpaciatta is the national sport of Ruritania, where the players are mounted on ostriches, and throw platypus eggs at each other, while dressed in Rubinacci…or maybe it’s something altogether different.
Good to know! Thanks for sharing! :)
did u have a good look at yourself in those yellow pants.u could have at least have the ensolubld pressed.not a good look
First and foremost, let me tell you that I absolutely love your Gazette and truly appreciate your movement.
With that being said, I’m sorry but I have an objection: while I do understand the message that you are trying to portray – this time – as a native Italian, born and raised in Rome, I must linguistically object to the choice of the term “scorpacciata”. Unfortunately, it is entirely incorrect even in a figurative way.
The terms scorpacciata is used primarily in the gastronomic field (as you suggested a scorpacciata of chestnuts, or cherries, or basically anything else) and, in some cases, can also be used figuratively (a scorpacciata of novels, or movies, etc.); the term, however, should be used exclusively with something that we consume and absorb (primarily food) and not something that we use (you would never say “I just had a scorpacciata of light bulbs’). In other words, the term scorpacciata does not marry well (in fact, it doesn’t marry at all) with clothing and dressing.
In addition to that, scorpacciata immediately suggests an overindulgence of food, a massive overeating, an almost overwhelming consumption of something, and therefore should not be used to describe clothes and accessories as it would suggest some excessive, gross exaggeration, like wearing 15 ties at the same time.
With that being said, and besides my perhaps pedantic comment, keep it up with the brilliant work.
The whole ensemble looks as if Sven has has had an accident with his suit trousers and changed hurriedly, in the dark.
and what is the point of an unlined jacket with a vest? Would a lined jacket not make more sense?
Unfortunately this time I have to agree on both points. I know it’s meant to be an example of spezzato but usually when Raphael practises spezzato, he does it in a way that you wouldn’t necessarily think that he’s mixed and matched part of a suit (eg. The jacket) with a pair of odd trousers. This time it’s pretty obvious. Possibly ditch the waistcoat? Or substitute the matching one with a contrasting one.
As for the unlined jacket and waistcoat combo, my understanding was that an unlined jacket worn on a warm or hot summer’s day was to eliminate a layer (given that the lining acts as a sort of additional layer) so one can still look smart and stay cool. Adding the additional layer of a waistcoat (at least to me) defeats the whole idea of wearing an unlined jacket; like ones who wear say a t-shirt or singlet top in summer but then go and put on a beanie +/- a scarf.
Hi there,
I can understand that the photo wouldn’t make sense, especially if the article was suggesting that the unlined jacket be worn on the “dog days of August.” The purpose of the photo is to actually show an example of an unlined jacket. We should’ve used a different photo or explained it better on the caption. We’ll look for a better photo and replace that one. :)
As for the topic of spezzato, you can find other examples in Spezzato: How to Divide a Suit Correctly
Sven, I have to agree with the other replies. You went way overboard with this article that i can’t even throw you a life ring. Much less haul you aboard! Scorpacciata is nothing more than dressing for the occasion, no matter what time of the year is.This time, “Nice Try” but, “No Cigar” !!
Hi Richard,
I tend to agree with most of the other comments, too, but after watching the video I would argue there is a distinct difference between dressing for the occasion and Scorpacciata.
To me the term ‘dressing for the occasion’ is about adhering to dress codes. For example, at a black tie event wearing the whole tuxedo ensemble that constitutes black tie. Where there’s no explicit dress code, it means putting together an ensemble that’s neat and appropriate for that occasion or event. Using a casual summer barbecue as an example, wearing a casual outfit such as shorts, a polo shirt and boat shoes.
Watching the video, I understand Scorpacciata not so much as being about dressing for occasions but the excitement around being able to wear types of garments, fabrics and even colours that one wouldn’t necessarily wear every season of the year. A female friend of mine is a textbook example of Scorpacciata. She wears plus size clothes and is a self-described ‘girly girl’ who relishes warmer months where she can wear a mix of structured dresses and loose fitting maxi dresses – the common denominator being that all of them are in lightweight fabrics that drape well and come in bright cheerful colours. She complains that clothes for plus sized women designed for colder months are mostly limited in colour (plain black or patterns in black and white) and even options (unless plus sized women want sweatpants or jeans – even then, mostly pull on ones – only other options are black skirts or slacks) are limited to things that are designed to keep one warm but aren’t very stylish.
Does the above example help to better explain the difference?
Master of Solo Travels, you have grasped the essence of what scorpacciata means.
I must admit it wasn’t until after watching the video and thought of my friend that I fully grasped the concept. I’ve also got a cousin who relishes winter where she can wear long knee high boots – these being impractical for warmer months.
Yes, what they said. Nothing was tasteful for me.
Try a little harder
Gouge site is interesting and informative but I think you need a stylist and a second opinion.
I appreciate this article as now I have a name for what I have done for years, even if, according to the native Italian, it is contextually incorrect. I am always very ready to change my wardrobe for the coming seasons. I dont know why, but at the end of the season I am bored with my current offerings. Maybe secretly I am just wanting to wear all of the new things I bought off season. Either way, come on cooler weather. Thank you for the information. I really enjoy this type of article.
Living in a locale with a strong seasonal weather variation I am a fan of the seasonal fashion approach, its really a requirement here. Anything warm enough to handle the worst of winter is far to heavy for summer and vice versa. On the point of winter wear, I am single handedly trying to establish the Ushanka as the standard men’s dress hat for winter weather (I think it looks sharp with a suit and overcoat).