The Fragrance Hierarchy: Designer, Drugstore, Niche, & More!

Comment

When you buy something using the affiliate links on our site, we may earn a small commission.

Have you ever heard of the fragrance hierarchy or considered the impact it could have on your fragrance purchases? The hierarchy of fragrances is an effort to categorize scents based on brand position, exclusivity, ingredient quality, and price range.

YouTube video

Ideally, the fragrance hierarchy helps consumers understand what to expect when selecting a fragrance.

Pyramid Position Doesn’t Equal Good Value

We want to be clear: where a fragrance falls on this hierarchy doesn’t necessarily reflect its quality—that will vary from person to person. You can find a good fragrance at any price point or position on the pyramid, provided that it does what you need and suits your style.

Photo of the pyramids

You may know the

Old Pyramid

If you’ve heard of the fragrance hierarchy, you’ve likely seen tier levels based on where the fragrance can be bought or who makes it. The common categories are Drugstore, Celebrity, Designer, and Niche. This is a helpful list, but you know us—we prefer to be as thorough as possible. Today, we’ll explore a more nuanced and expanded list, building off the conventional one with seven categories.

Our Expanded Fragrance Hierarchy

Expanded list of the Fragrance hierarchy by Gentleman's Gazette: Bootlegs, Drugstore, Branded (Celebrity), Fashion House, Department Store, Fragrance House, and Artisanal
The expanded list of the fragrance hierarchy by The Gentleman’s Gazette: Bootlegs, Drugstore, Branded (Celebrity), Fashion House, Department Store, Fragrance House, and Artisanal

Bootleg

We’ll start with one place you never want to buy fragrances from—off of a blanket spread in a public square or down a dark alleyway. Yes, we’re talking about bootlegs.

Bootleg Fragrance Can Be Dangerous in Many Ways

Bootlegs are fake versions of a fragrance, illegally marketed as the real thing, and should be avoided at all costs. By definition, the person selling you a bootleg is lying to you by misrepresenting the maker of a product. So, you cannot trust the quality of the fragrance. They are often cheaply made and have ingredients that don’t function well or could even harm your skin.

Additionally, bootleg fragrance operations are commonly used to finance organized crime. Similarly, avoid buying any products sold suspiciously because even if they’re real, they could be stolen.

Two fragrance dupes by ALT. Fragrances: Farouche, inspired by Sauvage, with 948 reviews, and Mohair, inspired by Green Irish Tweed, with 529 reviews

know the difference

Bootlegs vs Dupes

It is important to distinguish between bootlegs—fake versions of a fragrance illegally sold as the real thing—and dupes, legal, cheaper alternative duplicates of a more expensive fragrance that claim to smell similarly to the more expensive fragrance. Dupes are commonly found at the next tier level of the hierarchy: the Drugstore.

Drugstore

Drugstores are a good place to discover an array of different scents, all at very reasonable prices. Because these fragrances are more affordable, they allow you to experiment with different scent types and varieties to see how they interact with your natural musk.

Drugstore Fragrances Can Be An Extremely Economical Choice

And if you find a drugstore scent you like, you can use it as your daily fragrance, saving the higher-end options for special occasions. Many fragrance devotees swear by drugstores, and certain products have developed a cult following. Due to the limiting factor of price, drugstore-tier fragrances usually won’t have the diversity of fragrance types, unique, rare scents, or the lasting power of higher-end products.

So, they rely on more common synthetic ingredients and lower aromatic concentrations to stay at their price point. Some typical examples of drugstore-level fragrances include Jovan Musk, Florida Water, and Old Spice.

Examples of Drugstore-Level Fragrances

Jovan Musk for Men Cologne bottle and packaging in bright orange and white

Drugstore Fragrance

Jovan Musk

Florida Water Cologne bottle with ornate label design and gold wrapping around the cap

Drugstore Fragrance

Florida Water

Old Spice Classic Cologne bottle with red and white labeling

Drugstore Fragrance

Old Spice

Check out our general guide to learn the basics of fragrances!

Not All Drugstore Fragrances Are Technically “Fragrances”

It is worth noting that some drugstore-category fragrances are technically aftershave balms and lotions, which are not conventional fragrances, but they work just fine when it comes to smelling great. They were the scent many men wore during the Golden Age of Menswear.

Preston, for example, has many positive associations with the classic Ice Blue Aqua Velva aftershave balm and occasionally still enjoys wearing it as a conventional fragrance.

Preston giving a thumbs up with a bottle of Aqua Velva Classic Ice Blue After Shave Balm in the background
Preston appreciates the classic scent of Aqua Velva Ice Blue

Drugstores can also carry higher-tier fragrances, like our next category: Celebrity.

Branded (Celebrity)

Celebrity-tier fragrances in the hierarchy are named as such because they usually rely heavily on branding and name recognition as part of their sales pitch.

Promotional image featuring Timothée Chalamet with the Bleu de Chanel Eau de Parfum bottle

Celebrity Endorsements

Branding Over Quality?

Basically, the selling point is the celebrity and not necessarily the quality or the value of the fragrance. Most of these fragrances are individually endorsed by celebrities or famous icons and accordingly bear their names. Common examples include Michael Jordan, Intimately Beckham, and 007 by James Bond.

Branded Fragrances Can Be Hit or Miss

Celebrity-tier fragrances can be very hit or miss, as the focus is more on the celebrity than the fragrance itself. Sometimes, these products have the same or even lower quality standards as drugstore-tier fragrances, yet they come with a higher price tag due to the celebrity association. And even when higher-quality ingredients are employed, they are usually at lower concentrations, like eau de cologne, resulting in reduced longevity and sillage.

That being said, like drugstore tier, there’s nothing intrinsically wrong with celebrity fragrances as long as you feel you’re getting genuine value from the product.

Unsure of the differences between terms like EDC, EDP, or EDT?

Fashion House

Another category of branded fragrances is the Fashion House or designer level in the fragrance hierarchy. These fragrances are created by companies that were not originally known for fragrances but have expanded into the market. Think of fragrances by Giorgio Armani, such as Acqua Di Gio and Si (both of which Eb likes!), Burberry, and Versace, whose Blue Jeans is a favorite of Jack’s.

Eb smiling and giving a thumbs up next to Acqua Di Gio and Si fragrances by Giorgio Armani
Eb gives his approval to designer fragrances like Acqua Di Gio and Si by Giorgio Armani

Because fashion houses and designer labels have reputations to maintain, they often use higher-quality ingredients, greater aromatic concentrations, and generally higher production standards compared to drugstore or celebrity fragrances.

Many Fashion Houses Have Developed Positive Reputations as Fragrance Houses

Some brands, like Tom Ford or Mont Blanc, have thoroughly developed and cultivated the fragrance divisions of their companies and established solid reputations in the scent community. Of course, some companies at this level also trade largely on their name recognition and sell fragrances at inflated prices that don’t represent good value, so it all depends on the company and what works for you.

As always, don’t let brand names alone determine your fragrance purchases or any product decisions, for that matter.

Department Store

When it comes to department stores, we can’t attribute a discrete tier ranking to this level because it encompasses fragrances from nearly every tier we’ve discussed so far. Higher-end department stores can carry products all the way up to the top tier level of the fragrance hierarchy, becoming a source of a truly impressive range of scents at different price points.

Fragrance display at a department store
Department stores offer a diverse selection of fragrances

However, department stores can also act as a graveyard for fragrances whose time in the limelight has passed. Of course, there’s a big difference between stores like Macy’s and Saks Fifth Avenue, so the fragrance selection at your local department store will vary based on the store’s prestige and target audience.

Fragrance House

Fragrance houses are companies known primarily for making fragrances. While they may have branched out into other products, their main focus is crafting scents. As dedicated fragrance makers, these companies tend to use higher-quality ingredients and carefully chosen aromatic concentrations. They maintain extensive libraries of interesting and unique fragrances designed for different seasons, occasions, and levels of formality.

Did you know fragrances can have different levels of formality?

Fragrance houses are more likely to provide detailed information about their products than just listing fragrance notes. They often share insights into their production processes and the creative rationale behind each fragrance, which can help you, the consumer, make informed decisions.

Fragrance Houses Offer a Variety of Paired Scented Products

Many of these companies also offer iconic scents in various forms, such as soaps, body washes, shampoos, and even room diffuser oils. This is especially useful if you like to avoid scent confusion and prefer consistent fragrances across your products. But don’t think everything you own has to match perfectly; scent layering allows you to combine different fragrances harmoniously.

Examples of Fragrance Houses

Brands like Ortigia Sicilia, Diptyque, and Jo Malone are good examples of the Fragrance House category.

Still, just because a company focuses on fragrances doesn’t automatically mean their products are worth the higher prices. Remember: being expensive doesn’t make a product great; being of great value makes a product great, with a cost that justifies the product.

Outfit Rundown

Kyle wearing a navy rugby-inspired blazer with yellow stripes, paired with a striped shirt, blue pants, and brown dress shoes, while holding a bottle of fragrance
Kyle’s outfit with Calle Ocho fragrance from Fulton & Roark

Today, I’m wearing a different scent called Calle Ocho. It’s an extrait fragrance from Fulton & Roark. I’ve been experimenting with some other fragrances from this company for the last couple of years, and they smell incredible. I’m pairing that with my outfit today: a lot of navy, a lot of stripes—so a rugby-inspired blazer, a striped shirt, blue pants, brown dress shoes, and, of course, Fort Belvedere pocket square and socks.

For more great men’s accessories, check out the Fort Belvedere shop here.

Antique Gold Ochre Silk Wool Pocket Square with Printed geometric medallions in beige, red and blue with cream contrast edge by Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Antique Gold Medallion Pocket Square

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Navy Blue and Red Fil d'Ecosse Cotton

Fort Belvedere

Light Navy & Red Shadow Stripe Socks

Artisanal

In the conventional fragrance hierarchy, what we refer to as the Fashion House tier is called Niche because these companies are in a particular niche of fragrances. Now, we prefer, however, to include one final tier that we call Artisanal, consisting of Niche within the tier of fragrance houses. Think of it as the crème de la crème.

Makers at this level consist of high-end companies that exclusively develop and sell niche fragrances for discerning clientele that love the rare and wonderful when it comes to olfactory experiences.

Artisinal Fragrances Have a High Cost But Often Present Good Value

Artisanal fragrances tend to be very expensive, but the best examples of companies at this tier do their best to prove that the cost is worth it. These companies offer carefully curated selections of rare and exotic scents, unique twists on classics, and an unparalleled wearing experience, thanks to their use of the finest ingredients carefully combined in skillful melodies with minutely controlled duration and sillage.

Photo of Marzocco decorative layflat

Roberto Ugolini

Marzocco

Photo of Azzurro with Decorative Elements

Rober Ugolini

Azzurro

Photo of Roberto Ugolini Fragrances Derby with Decorative Elements

Roberto Ugolini

Derby

Conversely, the worst examples at this tier trade on their reputation and legacies to justify exorbitant prices. They count on consumers assuming, “If it’s this expensive, it must be good.” But remember, while quality often has a price, price does not always equate to quality. This principle also applies even at the top tier of the fragrance hierarchy.

Defining Artisinal Niche Fragrance Houses: Some Companies to Consider

We understand people can have different definitions of what can make a fragrance house truly artisanal. However, some notable examples we would suggest include Roberto Ugolini, Creed, and Clive Christian.

Keep in mind, though, that this rarefied tier isn’t for everyone, and we’re not saying this level is automatically the best just because it is the most expensive.

We’re just saying that this space on the fragrance hierarchy is defined by companies that choose to set themselves apart by catering only to very particular clients. But not being one of these clients doesn’t mean you don’t appreciate fragrances, don’t value quality, or don’t smell good—it just means that fragrances at this tier aren’t for you. That’s why we have a whole hierarchy from which to choose.

BLIND Testing Cheap vs Expensive Fragrances

Conclusion

The GG team wearing a range of different collar styles
The Gentleman’s Gazette team believes in choosing exceptional fragrances thoughtfully.

Exceptional fragrances can be found anywhere on the fragrance hierarchy, and members of Gentleman’s Gazette wear drugstore brands with the same discernment as artisanal ones. We understand that the fragrance hierarchy is a tool intended to help you make informed decisions as you shop for products that suit your needs, budget, and lifestyle.

Let us know in the comments at which level on the fragrance hierarchy you like to shop, or if you prefer to employ different tiers.

And on the sartorial content hierarchy, we hope you’ll rank today’s article in the artisanal category!

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the “fragrance hierarchy?”  

The fragrance hierarchy indicates the categorization of scents based on their brand positioning, exclusivity, quality of ingredients, and price range. It helps consumers understand what to expect when selecting a perfume.

What are the tiers of the fragrance hierarchy?

Conventionally, the hierarchy typically consists of four categories. These are Drugstore, Celebrity, Designer, and Niche.

What are “Drugstore” fragrances?

These are the most accessible and affordable fragrances. They are mass-produced and widely available in various retail stores. Drugstore fragrances offer a basic selection for everyday use. 

What are “Celebrity” fragrances? 

Celebrity fragrances are marketed with the name of a well-known public figure. These scents tend to be trend-driven and appeal to fans of the celebrities they represent. They are priced slightly higher than drugstore fragrances but are still considered budget-friendly in most cases. 

What are “Designer” fragrances?

Designer fragrances come from fashion houses with a reputation for clothing and accessories. They are more exclusive than drugstore or celebrity scents and often, but not always, use higher-quality ingredients. Prices are higher, reflecting the branding and the quality.

What are “Niche” fragrances?

At the top of the hierarchy are niche fragrances. These are created by brands that specialize exclusively in perfumery. Niche scents often have unique, complex compositions and are made in smaller batches using rare ingredients. They are the most expensive due to their exclusivity and craftsmanship.

How do I choose the right type of fragrance for me?

Consider your budget, the occasions you’ll wear the scent, and your personal taste. You might want an easy-to-wear drugstore fragrance for daily use and a niche or designer scent for special events.

Does a higher position in the hierarchy mean a better fragrance?

Not necessarily. The “best” fragrance is subjective and depends on personal preference. However, higher hierarchy fragrances often boast better quality ingredients and more sophisticated scent profiles.

Are Niche fragrances always better than other fragrances?

While niche fragrances are considered more exclusive and often have unique blends, this doesn’t mean they are inherently better than other fragrances. Some individuals may prefer the accessibility and familiarity of other scents over the avant-garde approach of niche perfumery.

Can I find high-quality fragrances at drugstore prices?

Yes, there are high-quality options available at lower price points. While they may not have the same level of complexity as some niche fragrances, many offer pleasant and lasting scents.

Is it worth investing in a niche fragrance?

If you are passionate about having a distinctive scent and appreciate the art behind fragrance-making, investing in a niche fragrance can be worthwhile. However, it’s a personal decision that should align with your appreciation for perfume and your budget.

How can I tell if a fragrance is good quality?

Good quality fragrances typically have well-balanced notes that transition smoothly over time and have longevity on the skin. The packaging and presentation can also be indicators of quality, along with the brand’s reputation for excellence in perfumery.

What is a top not, heart note, and base note?

These terms refer to the order in which the scents of a fragrance develop. Your first impression of the scent comes from the top note, and then the heart note sometimes called the middle note, becomes noticeable. The base notes are usually subtly present at all times but become more obvious with time. 

What is fragrance concentration?

Fragrance concentration refers to the percent of aromatic molecules like perfume oil in a fragrance relative to a matrix, usually alcohol. The type of fragrance indicates how high the relative concentration is. From the highest concentration to the least concentration, these types are Perfume (Parfum), Eau de Parfum (EDP), Eau de Toilette (EDT), Eau de Cologne (EDC), and Eau Fraiche.

What are some common scents that smell good on men?

Contrary to popular opinion, all fragrances are unisex, and you can choose whether you prefer smells that are particularly masculine, feminine, or both. Traditionally, the following types of scents have been associated with men:

Woody scents, like sandalwood, cedarwood, mossy woods, and balsam. 

Citrine scents like citrus, bergamot, and lemon. 

Sweet scents like vanilla, coconut, or champagne.

Floral scents like jasmine, lavender, lilies, or tube roses. 

Earthy scents, like musk, patchouli, oud, vetiver, or herbs. 

Oriental scents, like spices, cinnamon, pepper, and cardamon.

Accords, or combinations of scents, like amber, smoke, and marine smells.

   

Comment

Leave a Comment

Want to join the discussion? Feel free to contribute!

Reader Comments

  1. I really think “Carrying the best” has different meaning to different people .You Carrying “Uoglini” maybe right for you, however, I would think that you would carry some other top brands as well. Beside there are other scents that “Uoglini” doesn’t have. So, why limit yourself to one brand and only that brand.
    Find one or 2 or 3 scents that you would want to wear regardless of if it’s from the same maker or not, and make sure that one can be worn in summer the other in winter and the 3rd in the spring or fall seasons. Or if you prefer get one that you can wear from summer to fall season and the other from winter to spring time!
    As for myself I wear during the summer months here in the “south”
    ‘Acqua DI GIO” by “Giorgio Armani” and when the weather get colder i wear “Paco rabanne. Both are great and I do get compliments on both.

  2. I don’t know where my favorite cologne falls, but the one I wear consistently in Guerlain’s, Eau de Cologne Du Coq. An old scent, it has a warm citrus quality to it.

  3. I’m surprised you don’t mention Casswell-Massey. They’ve been around for quite a while, they are an American firm, they use natural extracts, and are never animal tested. Artisanal without being outrageously expensive. Also, if you’re in the mood, you can purchase a favorite scent of George Washington and Thomas Jefferson (Number Six) or JFK (Newport).