We’re firm believers that if you’re looking for a close shave with minimal irritation and an experience you can actually enjoy, then a traditional double-edged safety razor is your best choice.
When you do something every day, you want to make sure you’re doing it right. That’s why, when it comes to shaving, we stand behind the double-edged safety razor and have for years. In fact, today’s guide is an update to one that we produced back in 2020 (see below), and we figured the DE razor deserves to have its praises sung again.
Why Cartridge Shaving Dominates
Of course, you might be asking yourself: If DE razors are so great, then why do multi-blade cartridge models dominate the market?
It’s all about
Clever Marketing
Cartridge razors are advertised as being the latest and greatest technology, easy and convenient to use, and effective. Just think of those pleasing animations of multiple blades gliding over and removing hair.
However, if we compare cartridge shaving and traditional double-edged shaving head-to-head (or blade-to-blade), then those marketing tricks fall away quickly.
Benefits of DE Shaving
1. Proper Engineering (vs. Overengineering)
Razor Handles
There are two major categories in which we can compare these two types of shaving and why double-edged shaving is superior; and the first of these is proper engineering versus over-engineering. What matters most when shaving is the quality of the shave and that hinges directly on the quality of the razor.
Cartridge razors create the illusion of a superior experience by piling on a lot of gimmicks. Think about the multiple arrangements of different blades, pivoting heads, or lubricating strips. These all sound neat, but when you stop to think about it, the benefits of all of these things are already represented in a traditional shave. The multiple blades, for instance, are really no different than simply taking multiple passes with a single blade.
No matter how many blades you’re using, you’re likely to take at least a few passes at a time; and, in fact, by just using a single blade, you’ll be less likely to snag a hair in between blades or cut a hair below the surface of the skin, which can lead to irritation or ingrown hairs.
A pivoting razor head is really no different than simply controlling the angle of your shave, which is easier to do with a smaller razor head, and you’ll be able to do it well with a practice technique.
And that lubrication strip will be vastly outperformed by high-quality shaving cream and aftershave balm.
So, if you strip away all of the gimmicks of modern cartridge razors, you’re essentially left with a double-edged razor, which really is the superior shaving method.
Razor Blades
a De safety razor
Lets you choose the right blade
Rather than piling on generic one-size-fits-all blades as cartridge razors do, shaving with a double-edged safety razor allows you to pick the ideal blade for your skin and hair types.
The stationary head of a double-edged razor allows you to maneuver the blade exactly as you’d like to and be more or less aggressive, leading to the shave that’s right for you; and with a DE razor, you’ll be able to use those high-quality soaps and shaving creams that will leave your skin feeling better.
Why can’t you use these with cartridge razors? Well, you can certainly try. But, oftentimes, the higher amounts of lipids and emollient in these high-quality products will gum up the works of a multi-blade razor.
When used properly, the benefits of a DE razor will not only lead to a closer shave, but a smoother one as well. As mentioned, cartridge razors take a one-size-fits-all approach when it comes to hair types and skin sensitivities.
So, while they may provide decent results for most shavers, they’ll provide truly exceptional results to very few shavers; and they’re a particularly poor choice for those with sensitive skin or especially coarse hair. So, by selecting the ideal blade for your skin and hair and using it with a DE razor, you’re likely to see better results.
2. Cost
Let’s start here by talking about how quickly blades dull. Whether we’re talking about a double-edged razor blade or cartridge blades, they tend to start dulling after around three to five uses, considering average hair texture.
Straight Razor blades are
Kept sharp by stropping
It’s actually fairly difficult to keep a razor blade sharp. Hence the need to regularly strop (and hone) a straight razor, the most traditional of shaving methods.
DE razors account for this reality by being manufactured to work with extremely simple blades that are easy to manufacture. To replace each individual double-edged blade will cost you just pennies by the pack, so it’s fairly convenient to simply dispose of a blade when you’re done using it or when it’s getting dull.
Compare that to the fairly over-engineered cartridge blade packs, which can cost over $4 for a single multi-blade implement; and while manufacturers claim that these cartridges are good for over fifteen shaves, we’ve noticed a marked decrease in quality after just a few shaves with them in our own testing. So, if you notice your cartridges pulling, that means you’ll have to shell out considerably more cash to get new ones or settle for a sub-par shave.
In other words then, this underscores how DE shaving is superior in terms of lifetime cost. Bilking you out of your money is such a major part of the cartridge shaving system that it’s literally the name of a pricing model in the business world—the “razor and blades model.”
The shaving company Gillette made the conscious decision to sell its cartridge system razor handles at cost to get shavers started for a relatively low price, but those razor handles are pretty useless without blades. So, Gillette made the cartridge heads expensive, knowing that everyone who already had a handle would essentially be locked into this system—unless they were wise enough to consider other options, that is.
So, while you might only spend $10 to get the handle for a cartridge razor, be prepared to spend as much as three times that per month in order to keep yourself well-stocked with blades.
On the other hand, DE shaving does have a considerable upfront cost—as in order to get yourself started with a basic kit, you’ll probably have to spend somewhere in the neighborhood of $50 to $100. Yes, that can sound steep in comparison. But, if you purchase quality tools, then you’ll likely only need to make this investment once; and going forward—potentially for the rest of your life—you’ll only be paying pennies per shave because of how cheap DE razor blades are.
The only real expense from that point onward will be the occasional purchase of shaving cream or if you’d like to treat yourself to a new tool.
As a case study here, Raphael has run some numbers himself and, in his own testing, in order to shave as comfortably with a cartridge razor as he does with a DE razor, he would have to potentially spend as much as ten times more per year.
3. Environmental Concerns
We’ll close this section out with another cost—the cost of unsustainable waste. Both cartridge razors and DE razors will likely have to be disposed of at some point. But, cartridge razors introduce a difficult-to-dispose-of or recycle chunk of hard plastic, which often ends up in landfills.
Meanwhile, the typically all metal bodies of traditional DE razors don’t really have to be thrown away and, in many cases, can be refurbished if they’re antiques to still be usable; and as opposed to the multi-blade implement of a cartridge razor, which again is a hunk of plastic, the blades of a DE razor are made from simple-to-recycle metal.
The DE Razor produces
Less Waste
If they’re properly stored, razor blades can be easily dropped off at a local recycling center or, even if you do throw them away, they will still take up considerably less space in a landfill. And while neither metal or plastic is strictly-speaking biodegradable, metal will break down in the environment over decades; whereas, some plastics can take up to hundreds or even thousands of years.
Considerations for DE Shaving
With all this being said then, we don’t want to overhype double-edged shaving. After all, we certainly don’t want you trying to shave while wearing rose-colored glasses.
1. Cartridge Razors Are Easy To Use But Results In An Inferior Shave
We do recognize that one of the main draws of cartridge razor shaving is how simple and intuitive it is. The cartridge system does make it much harder to nick or cut yourself, though it does this generally by impeding the action of the razor blade with a safety bar. This then contributes to an inferior shave overall.
2. DE Razors Offer Full Use And Control Over The Blade
When double-edged shaving, as mentioned before, you’ll have full control over the blade, which means that, yes, there is a slightly higher chance of nicking or cutting yourself, but that control will also give you a closer shave with less irritation when done well.
3. DE Razors Require Practice But Offer A Better Experience
All it will take for you to achieve this is an investment in time in order to learn how to properly use a DE razor. Fortunately, though, we’ve already produced several guides on the subject that will walk you through the process slowly and concisely, so you’ll be able to get a fantastic shave, benefiting from our years of experience.
Shaving Guides Playlist
And if you’ve got sensitive skin as I do, you can find DE razors on the market with a smaller blade gap, leading to a lower chance of cutting yourself. So, then DE shaving does require special tools and a little bit more time and know-how. But, we think the results speak for themselves.
4. DE Razors Are Not Permissible In Carry-On Luggage
Before we move on though, we will pause for a moment to acknowledge one area where cartridge razors potentially do have DE razors beat and that is the area of airline travel.
Unfortunately, DE razor blades aren’t allowed in carry-on luggage by most major airlines. This means that, unless you’re bringing along a checked bag on your journey, where your DE razor and blades can be stowed, you may have to make do with a cartridge razor, which can be safely carried in carry-on luggage. Alternatively though, you could opt for a different method of shaving that can accommodate being put into a carry-on bag like an electric shaver.
By the way, Raphael frequently employs a method of shaving that couples a DE razor with an electric shaver, which you can learn more about in another guide.
So, if you’re interested in using that method, chances are you’ll already have an electric shaver on hand that you can take with you when traveling. This way, you won’t have to bother with a cartridge razor in either case.
Speaking of electric shavers then, for more information on how DE shaving compares to other shaving methods besides just cartridges, our comprehensive shaving guide e-book is a fantastic place to find this information and much more.
RECOMMENDED
Master the Art of Shaving with Our Shaving Guide
Each man has different needs, and even though we love a deep dive into one part of shaving, we know that the Big Picture is just as important. To answer the many shaving questions and concerns that we receive from men every day, we put together the most comprehensive Shaving Guide out there.
In assembling this work, we personally tested over one hundred shaving products to see how they performed. Our expert testers have extensive experience with all shaving methods, including cartridge, double-edged or safety, and straight razors, techniques, and tools. All products were tested comparatively by the same team, so you can be sure that every suggestion, tip, and review is unbiased and the direct result of our genuine opinions and assessments.
Essential Tools for Double-Edge Shaving:
Now that we have piqued your interest in double-edged shaving, let’s conclude by running down the list of essential tools you’ll need in order to shave with a double-edged razor.
1. Razor Body (Handle and Head)
Firstly, of course, you’ll need a razor body—that is a handle and head. Unlike with cartridge razors, DE razors can be highly customized to you and your needs with variations in weight, balance, aggressiveness, blade gap, and the like to suit your individual shaving style. And for a truly bespoke experience, you can even mix-and-match the handles and heads of many different razors.
To use myself as a personal example here, I enjoy the narrow blade gap of the head of the Hansen Shaving AL13 with the weight and heft of the handle of the Muhle R89 Grande.
This guide isn’t sponsored by the way, I’ve just found that these two razor options have worked well for me.
2. Blades
Next, you’ll obviously need to load the body of your razor with a blade that suits your skin sensitivity, hair type, and shaving needs. In simplest terms here, you can consult our guide on the best double-edged razor blades as a great place to start.
3. Quality Shaving Cream
a superior shave needs
Quality products
You’re also going to want some shaving products that will help to prepare your hair for shaving and soothe your skin afterward.
We suggest acquiring a quality shaving soap or cream featuring fats and emollient for smoothness, protection, and moisturization, paired with a shaving brush and mug to create a rich, spreadable lather. Your skin will thank you for not using cheap aerosol creams, which we cover in greater depth in another guide.
Cheap vs. Expensive Shaving Cream
4. Aftershave or Balm
You should also procure a moisturizing aftershave or balm and, if you’d like more product recommendations for this and other related things, you can find our guide featuring some of our favorites.
If you’re first getting used to DE shaving you should also consider a product that will stop bleeding from occasional nicks and cuts. Even for experienced shavers, they’re bound to happen, and there’s no shame in it. Styptic pencils and alum blocks are good options here as they stop bleeding by coagulating blood at the surface.
Conclusion
With that, you should know all that you need to in order to try out double-edged shaving for yourself.
We’d like to know then, did we thoroughly convince you that double-edged shaving is a cut above or are there still some cartridge fans out there? Let us know in the comments as I go over today’s outfit.
Outfit Rundown
Today, I’m wearing a relatively simple and casual outfit—the centerpiece of which is my silver-colored polo shirt. As I have for other shaving-related content in the past, I picked this shirt today as I believe its pattern is somewhat reminiscent of the knurling on a traditional DE razor handle.
Most of the rest of my outfit—including my belt, loafers from J Butler, and trousers—are all plain black, and my socks are from our own brand, Ford Belvedere. These are part of our range of what we’re calling our two-tone, solid designs; and they’re in black and white to harmonize somewhat with the shirt.
Finally, today, for a fragrance, I’ve chosen Individuel from Montblanc as I believe the silver, black, and white tones on the bottle harmonized with my outfit and because the light and fairly neutral scent is pleasing to me. But, for the socks I’m wearing today, as well as a wide array of other classic men’s accessories, corduroy trousers, fragrances from the Roberto Ugolini collection, and our shaving guide e-book, among others—you can take a look at the Fort Belvedere shop.
FAQ
What is a double edged safety razor?
A double edged safety razor is a shaving instrument that has a protective barrier between the blade and your skin. It uses a single blade of a double-edged blade and is designed to cut the hair at skin level.
Why are double edged razors considered better than cartridge razors?
There are several reasons why double edged razors are seen as superior:
- Closer Shave: They provide a closer shave by cutting the hair cleanly without pulling or tugging.
- Cost-Effective: Even though the initial investment may be higher, double edged blades are much cheaper to replace than cartridge blades.
- Less Irritation: With only one blade passing over the skin, there’s less risk of irritation, ingrown hairs, and razor burn.
- Durability: Safety razors are made from quality materials like stainless steel and can last a lifetime with proper care.
- Precision: The design allows for more control and precision in shaping beards and sideburns.
- Environmentally Friendly: Double-edge razor blades are recyclable, reducing plastic waste compared to disposable cartridges.
Is a double edged razor suitable for beginners?
Yes, with a little practice, beginners can easily adapt to using a double edged razor. It’s important to learn the proper technique to avoid nicks and cuts.
How often do I need to replace the blade in a double edged razor?
This can vary depending on beard thickness and how often you shave, but generally speaking, you should change the blade every 3-7 shaves for optimal performance.
Can I use any brand of double edged blades with my safety razor?
Most double edged blades are universal and will fit any standard safety razor, giving you the flexibility to try different brands and find the one that works best for you.
Are double edged razors travel-friendly?
While they are not typically allowed in carry-on luggage due to the blade, they are travel-friendly in checked baggage. You may also find travel cases designed specifically for double edged razors.
Our Original “DE vs. Cartridge” Video
As mentioned at the beginning of this article, we first published a video on this topic back in 2020. Our analysis remains largely the same, but watch it for yourself to see how far our production has come in the intervening years!
A 250 page guide on shaving? Wow! How about using Occam’s razor on that one? Then again, to be fair, GG materials are always thorough and we’ll written, so it might be worth reading.
Occams razor? I would never share any razor with any guy! ;-)
Seriously, fully agree with the author. I mainly use an electric razor just for time reasons, but whenever I can afford time-wise it is a DE, just enjoying the ritual, a feeling of freshness, and a superior shave.
Occam’s razor is a scientific principle of selecting the simplest set of elements to convey a subject. it relates to parsimony which is the frugal use of resources.
thank you from over here in the Antipodes for yet another interesting article .
It is! Thanks for sharing your thoughts, William! :)
Having made the leap 10 years ago and buying a Merkur 34c safety razor I have never looked back. Paired with a Feather Blade and Floris 89 shaving soap it gives a superb shave every time. I also have the Bluebeards Revenge Cut Throat Razor Which is a little harder to master but gives a great shave and still used the same blades.
Thank you for sharing, Paul!
I have used “safety razors” for at least half my adult life. A couple of vintage Gillettes of my father’s from the 40’s and 50’s, more Gillettes, even an injector razor, from the 70’s with most of the popular blades (Astra, Feather et.al) and I used an Atra cartridge type until the blades became more expensive than I wanted to pay for them, then it was back to the double-edge. A couple of years ago my oldest son, who also has a heavy beard, suggested I try a disposable Gillette Mach 3. He said his lasted a month(!), which I didn’t believe for a minute since I’ve never made it a week without changing blades unless I was on vacation. But I was curious and bought a few-2 dollars each- and gave them a whirl. With the grain, against the grain, sideways across the grain, my styptic pencil has been in the drawer for two years instead of in daily use, and my face is as smooth as silk. And they actually do last about a month. I’ve never looked back.
Thank you for sharing! :)
“Personally, I just use an electric shaver when I travel because I can also use that when I shave with a DE razor.”
by Teresa C. Schneider
The script is written by Teresa :)
I cringed when I saw the blade going against the grain! A sure-fire way to have those bumps and irritations – or was it just a pose for the article?
Are you referring to thumbnail/featured image? If so then yes, it was for the article :)
That’s actually how you shave(I know…it sounds strange). No irritation or bumps for me so far (as long as I have shaving cream on). Usually that’s only a second or third pass going against the grain, something you also don’t do (multiple passes) with a cartridge. Then again, DEs tend to cut hairs above the skin while cartridge tugs up, then cuts the hair. That DOES irritate the skin.
was around $50- a few years ago, well spent. western razor .com. really nice quality and made in america.
Many years ago, when I was young and dumb I fell for the hype and used a two blade razor. It left me with lumps, bumps, ingrown hairs, and all manner of bad stuff. Electric shavers didnโt give a close enough shave. An uncle told me to try an injector razor. I did and never looked back. It gave the close, mostly irritation free shave I wanted and was less prone to nicks and cuts I suffered when using a double edge razor.
What is your opinion of injector razors vs the others?
Every body has a preference as to what to use. They all have there good & bad points. I personally use a disposable, why? My beard is light and it only takes about 5 minutes to shave using “liquid hand soap” and I don’t need to shave every day. I have been doing this for a few years, with no problems at all.
I read your article on double edged (DE) razors years ago and when I saw a good one for sale, along with blades and shaving soap, I delved in. I’m completely won over and will not go back to the cartridge systems.
The brand I bought is Albatross. The developers of Albatross were on a ship that visited the Sargasso Sea, a place in the Atlantic ocean, where Sargasso “seaweed” and flotsam naturally accumulates on the surface. The area is now overrun with floating plastic bits of garbage and conspicuous in that bulk are millions of plastic razors.
When nations use disposable plastic shaving systems, the sheer mass of the waste is more than a person such as I can imagine.
So I’m doing my part for the environment by using DE razors and recycling the used blades. Shaving with the grain of my beard first, then against the grain next, I get the best shave I ever had. I’m never going back to cartridge razors.