“Manners Maketh Man” Men’s Style Review of “Kingsman: The Golden Circle”

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The Kingsman films would seem at first glance to be right up the alley of a classic menswear enthusiast; black tie, sharp suits, and other menswear ensembles abound, and the cover for the Kingsman organization is even a tailoring shop on Savile Row. But what we’ll be examining today is whether 2017’s Kingsman: The Golden Circle (the second film in the series) truly adheres to the tenets of classic men’s style.

This review is the second in a series analyzing the style of the ongoing Kingsman film franchise; we covered 2014’s Kingsman: The Secret Service in the first installment. As before, if you’re looking for a review of the film in terms of watchability, we will briefly touch on that toward the end of the post, but our focus today is on the clothes themselves.

Styles of the Kingsman Agents

Gary Unwin / Eggsy

Eggsy has now assumed the code name of Galahad and he starts this movie in his signature outfit from the previous film, the navy pinstriped suit. In his civilian life, however, we do still see him in his typical streetwear ensembles of polos, ball caps, and sneakers. We see more different kinds of outfits from Eggsy in this film including a gray-blue double-breasted suit with the standard blue, pink, and brown rep tie, a white shirt, and a TV-folded white pocket square.

Eggsy sporting a gray-blue double-breasted suit with the standard blue, pink, and brown rep tie, a white shirt, and a TV-folded white pocket square.
Eggsy sporting a gray-blue double-breasted suit with the standard blue, pink, and brown rep tie, a white shirt, and a TV-folded white pocket square. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

A fairly well-known black tie ensemble of Eggsy’s that was featured in a lot of the film’s marketing consists of an orange velvet dinner jacket with black velvet peak lapels and side vents, a white shirt with regular buttons, a black velvet batwing bow tie, white TV-folded pocket square, black trousers, and gold cufflinks.

Again, when compared to the standards of classic Black Tie, some of these details aren’t quite correct. We wouldn’t advise that you wear a Black Tie ensemble with a regular dress shirt but rather a more formal tuxedo shirt. The orange color is of course quite bold and typical tuxedo jackets should have no vents, rather than double vents. However, two vents can be acceptable on a Black Tie jacket though ventless is most correct.

Eggsy in an orange velvet dinner jacket with black velvet peak lapels and side vents, a white shirt with regular buttons, a black velvet batwing bow tie, white TV-folded pocket square, black trousers, and gold cufflinks.
Eggsy in an orange velvet dinner jacket with black velvet peak lapels and side vents, a white shirt with regular buttons, a black velvet batwing bow tie, white TV-folded pocket square, black trousers, and gold cufflinks. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Other ensembles we see Eggsy wear in the film include a charcoal suit with a pink pinstripe, a plain navy suit, and toward the end of the film, formal military attire. We can also see that some of Eggsy’s oxfords in this film themselves have broguing. Further illustrating our point that the two types of shoes are not mutually exclusive.

Eggsy wearing a plain navy suit, white shirt and his blue, pink, and brown rep tie.
Eggsy wearing a plain navy suit, white shirt and his blue, pink, and brown rep tie. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Harry Hart / Galahad

While it may be a bit into spoiler territory here, we do see Colin Firth’s Galahad again in the second film in the series. First, we see him in a flashback wearing a white shirt and navy pin dot tie. Later in the film, he’s reintroduced wearing a sporty grey zip-up, plain white t-shirt, track pants, white sneakers, and an eye patch. He’s also seen shaving with a traditional double-edged safety razor, which we’ve covered in-depth in our Double-Edged Razor Guide.

An amnesiac Harry wearing a sporty grey zip-up, plain white t-shirt, track pants, and an eye patch.
An amnesiac Harry wearing a sporty grey zip-up, plain white t-shirt, track pants, and an eye patch. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Other outfits we see from Harry in this film include his standard navy pinstriped Kingsman ensemble, a plain light gray double-breasted suit, a plain charcoal double-breasted suit, and morning dress with a pink waistcoat and tartan trousers, as well as a white carnation boutonniere.

Harry Hart wearing the standard navy pinstriped Kingsman ensemble.
Harry Hart wearing the standard navy pinstriped Kingsman ensemble. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Merlin

The character of Merlin is again seen wearing a v-neck sweater, this time in a two-toned grey and brown design, white shirt, black or very dark blue plain tie, and his signature clubmaster glasses. We later see him in two other outfits: one consisting of a flat cap tartan patterned field jacket with belt and gray pants, and the standard navy pinstripe Kingsman ensemble.

Merlin in his usual v-neck sweater and clubmaster glasses get up.
Merlin in his usual v-neck sweater and signature clubmaster glasses get up. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Arthur

The new Kingsman agent to assume the code name of Arthur is seen in the film wearing a navy double-breasted suit with a faint blue overcheck, a white TV-folded pocket square, white shirt, and the pink blue and brown striped repp tie that the old Arthur also wore.

The new Arthur wears a navy double-breasted suit with a faint blue overcheck, a white TV-folded pocket square, white shirt, and a pink blue and brown striped repp tie.
The new Arthur wears a navy double-breasted suit with a faint blue overcheck, a white TV-folded pocket square, white shirt, and a pink blue and brown striped repp tie. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Roxy Morton / Lancelot

The character of Roxy has now assumed the code name of Lancelot and the first time we see her in the film, she’s wearing a more typically Kingsman-inspired ensemble consisting of a gray double-breasted jacket with a Prince of Wales check pattern in light blue, a white shirt and repp tie, and the standard TV-folded white pocket square.

 Roxy (Lancelot) wearing a Kingsman-inspired ensemble.
Roxy (Lancelot) wearing a Kingsman-inspired ensemble. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Styles of the Villains

Poppy Adams

To match the aesthetics of her secret lair, the main villain, Poppy Adams (played by Julianne Moore) often dresses in 1950s styles including dresses and matching high-heeled shoes, as well as a bowling outfit. Her goons meanwhile will wear things like letterman jackets, soda jerk outfits, and bellhop outfits. We also see Poppy in a floral print dress at another point in the film.

Poppy Adams in a floral dress with matching high heels.
Poppy Adams in a floral dress with matching high heels. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Charlie Hesketh

The character of Charlie played by Edward Holcroft appears in the second film as well, we see him first in streetwear then in outfits consisting of horse-bit loafers, a flat cap, and a signet ring, a double-breasted trench coat, an OCBD shirt, navy crew neck navy puffer jacket, and parka and maroon chinos with the Hermes belt, also making a return.

Charlie Hesketh wearing a navy crew neck puffer jacket, maroon chinos and a flat cap.
Charlie Hesketh wearing a navy crew neck puffer jacket, maroon chinos and a flat cap. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Charles

The villainous henchman named Charles played by Keith Allen wears an ensemble consisting of a powder blue suit with narrow peak lapels, a blue striped shirt, a white belt, and white loafers while going sockless.

The henchman Charles wearing a powder blue suit with narrow peak lapels and a blue striped shirt.
The henchman Charles wearing a powder blue suit with narrow peak lapels and a blue striped shirt. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Angel

Meanwhile, the henchman Angel played by Tom Benedict Knight is first seen wearing a mauve jacket with narrow lapels, a pink shirt with a Cuban collar, a gold necklace, dark jeans, and a white belt while also going sockless. He’s later seen in a navy blue single-breasted suit with peak lapels, a navy shirt, and a blue textured silk tie. We typically wouldn’t advise going for this sort of tone-on-tone look but if you’d like more information about monochromatically inspired outfits, our guide to Monochromatic Outfits has got your covered.

The henchman Angel wearing a mauve jacket with narrow lapels, a pink shirt with a Cuban collar, a gold necklace, dark jeans, and a white belt.
The henchman Angel wearing a mauve jacket with narrow lapels, a pink shirt with a Cuban collar, a gold necklace, dark jeans, and a white belt. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Styles of the Statesman Agents

Tequila

Now, let’s look at the style of some of the statesman agents: the American analog to the Kingsman organization, starting off with the character of Tequila played by Channing Tatum. We first see him wearing a denim-on-denim ensemble of jeans and a denim jacket as well as a belt buckle that looks like a flask, tan cowboy hat, a Western-style white shirt with snaps instead of buttons, brown boots, brown gloves, and aviator-style glasses.

Agent Tequila wearing a denim-on-denim ensemble of jeans and a denim jacket.
Agent Tequila wearing a denim-on-denim ensemble of jeans and a denim jacket. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Another notable piece of outerwear for the character is a traditionally styled shearling jacket in tan and off-white and toward the end of the film, we see him assume the role of a Kingsman agent wearing an ensemble consisting of black boots, a charcoal suit with a rust-colored pinstripe, white shirt that also has a thin stripe, a Kingsman repp tie, white TV-folded pocket square, and a black bowler hat.

Agent Tequila sporting a charcoal suit with a rust-colored pinstripe Kingsman ensemble, as later seen on the film.
Agent Tequila sporting a charcoal suit with a rust-colored pinstripe Kingsman ensemble, as later seen in the film. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Champagne / “Champ”

The character of Champagne or Champ as played by Jeff Bridges is first seen in a western-style grey jacket with peak lapels and also a darker gray vest as well as a white shirt that again, has snaps which seem to be a standard feature for the statesman. He’s also wearing a neckerchief, gray cowboy hat, statesman lapel pin, jeans, and a signet ring.

Champagne in a western-style grey jacket ensemble.
Champagne in a western-style grey jacket ensemble. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

We later see him in variations on this outfit as well as an all ivory double-breasted suit, white shirt, and various gold accessories toward the end of the film.

Agent Champagne wearing a double-breasted ivory suit at Eggsy's wedding.
Agent Champagne wearing a double-breasted ivory suit at Eggsy’s wedding. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Whiskey

The final statesman to discuss here is Whiskey as played by Pedro Pascal. We first see him in a black-colored western jacket as well as a black hat, a white shirt, and a black grenadine tie. Another ensemble consists of a black leather jacket, white t-shirt jeans, and what might appear to be Wellington style boots.

Agent Whiskey in black western jacket as well as a black hat, a white shirt, and a black grenadine tie.
Agent Whiskey in black western jacket as well as a black hat, a white shirt, and a black grenadine tie. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Other features of his outfits include a studded belt, a dark brown hat, similarly two-toned jackets, a striped grenadine tie, skiing attire, and typical denim-on-denim statesman ensembles.

Agent Whiskey sporting a black leather jacket and a white t-shirt.
Agent Whiskey sporting a black leather jacket and a white t-shirt. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Ginger Ale

Halle Berry’s Ginger Ale is something of a statesman counterpart to Merlin and we first see her in a vest, white shirt, and string tie with an overall businessy look. We later see her in the standard statesman-styled ensemble of jeans, charcoal western-style jacket, and a v-neck sweater and all the while she wears clubmaster glasses as well though in a more feminine cat-eye style.

Ginger Ale in a standard Statesman-styled ensemble of jeans, charcoal western-style jacket, and a v-neck sweater. She also sports a clubmaster glasses in a more feminine style.
Ginger Ale in a standard Statesman-styled ensemble of jeans, charcoal western-style jacket, and a v-neck sweater. She also sports a clubmaster glasses in a more feminine style. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Other Noteworthy Characters

King of Sweden

Looking at another example of Black Tie, we’ll go to the character of the King of Sweden played by Bjorn Granath. In the dinner party scene early in the film, he wears a standard black tuxedo with satin peak lapels, a pleated shirt, and a black bow tie, as well as a white square-folded pocket square.

The president of Sweden in his military ensemble.
The King of Sweden in his military ensemble. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

We later see him in a more casual outfit of a white shirt, black pants, and gray v-neck sweater as well as formal royal or military attire toward the end of the film. His Swedish guards meanwhile have a distinctly 18th-century look about them.

The president of Sweden in a more casual outfit.
The King of Sweden in a more casual outfit. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

President of the United States

The President of the United States, as played by Bruce Greenwood, wears a typical black suit, white barrel cuffed shirt, red solid tie, American flag pin, dress watch, black belt, and black shoes. The black suit is a common ensemble for many politicians but overall, we find the color of black to be fairly overrated

The president of the United States wearing a black suit, white barrel cuffed shirt, and red solid tie.
The President of the United States wearing a black suit, white barrel cuffed shirt, and red solid tie. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Pruitt (Poppy’s Lawyer)

We also see a lawyer character named Pruitt played by Jeff Ricketts late into the film who wears an unremarkable ensemble of a charcoal suit, white shirt, blue grenafaux tie, and blue pocket square.

The lawyer named Pruitt wearing a charcoal suit ensemble.
The lawyer named Pruitt wearing a charcoal suit ensemble. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Eggsy’s Friends

Eggsy’s friends, or “mates,” as the Brits would say, typically wear streetwear though toward the end of the film, they can be seen in suits at Eggsy’s wedding also accented by carnation boutonnieres

Eggsy's friends who are usually in street wear are seen later in the film wearing suits with carnation boutonnieres.
Eggsy’s friends who are usually in streetwear are seen later in the film wearing suits with carnation boutonnieres. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Elton John

Finally here, we’d be remiss not to mention the various outfits worn by Elton John who plays himself in this film. These consist of a sparkly and sequined show business outfit, an outfit with a tracksuit and tennis shoes, what can only be described as a peacock outfit, and late in the film, a more traditional morning dress.

Elton John in what can only be descibed as a peacock outfit.
Elton John in what can only be descibed as a peacock outfit. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

How Would We Characterize the Style of Kingsman: The Golden Circle?

It seems to be a bit less inspired at least in the realm of men’s tailoring. The Kingsman agents have less overall variety in their wardrobe choices and when other characters wear suits, they’re either unremarkable and boring or more clearly influenced by modern style. Though in some cases, this can be appropriate for their characters.

The Kingsman and Statesman agents altogether.
The Kingsman and Statesman agents altogether in their respective standard agency ensemble. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

When considering characters like the statesmen, the villains, and of course Elton John, things really do get more into the realm of costumes.

Eggsy looking dapper in his military uniform for his wedding.
Eggsy looking dapper in his military uniform for his wedding. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

What About the Film’s Overall Watchability?

Even though I enjoyed the first film just as much for its plot as for its wardrobe choices, I would say that personally, I found this second film in the series to be less entertaining on both counts. And as with the first film, this one too has an R rating for its gratuitous action, violence, gore, and occasional crude humor and subject matter.

In other words, it’s not exactly gentlemanly on all fronts, if that should impact your desire to see it. But again, it does approach the world of menswear and a gentleman’s lifestyle with what can be described as an aspirational or appreciative tone and for that, we can compliment it.

Merlin, Harry, and Eggsy all wearing the standard KIngsman repp tie.
Harry, Merlin, and Eggsy all wearing the standard Kingsman repp tie. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

This film features fewer memorable quotes than the first one does. Think of things like “Manners maketh man.” or “A suit is a gentleman’s suit of armor.” But it does still show that being well-rounded in gentlemanly pursuits is something worth looking after.

For example, a flashback sequence toward the beginning of the film features Eggsy and Galahad in a section about table manners and silverware placement. Later, formal dinner conversation includes topics as diverse as art, the economy, and technology. In other words, what these scenes are illustrating is that it’s not enough just to look good to be a gentleman, you’ve also got to be well-rounded in your pursuits and, ultimately, respectful as well.

Harry teaching Eggsy some table manners.
Harry teaching Eggsy some table manners. [Image Credit: 20th Century Fox]

Conclusion

Overall, if the Kingsman films serve as an entry point into the world of classic menswear for young men, action film fans, or anyone else, we see this as a good thing. Just remember that their menswear advice shouldn’t be followed as strictly as the mission briefing of a super spy.

Outfit Rundown

In today’s video, I’m wearing an outfit somewhat inspired by a few of the different Kingsman characters. Of course, you’ve seen Raphael in what would be considered a more standard issue Kingsman suit before in navy with white pinstripes, but I’ve gone for something a bit more casual – mostly inspired by the Merlin character. It consists mainly of a white shirt and black cardigan sweater and the shirt has a semi-spread collar and regular barrel cuffs to fit more easily under the sleeves of the sweater.

The pin dot tie in burgundy red jacquard silk which is from Fort Belvedere is a bit more Galahad-inspired and I’ve got it tied in a larger knot today to accommodate the wider spread of the collar. Also from Fort Belvedere are my socks which are in dark gray with a burgundy and white clock pattern to provide a bit of visual interest as well as to harmonize with the tie and the grey scale elements elsewhere throughout my outfit.

Preston in a casual Kingsmen-inspired look
Preston in a casual Kingsmen-inspired look
Silk Tie in Jacquard Burgundy Red with White Polka Dots

Fort Belvedere

Silk Tie in Jacquard Burgundy Red with White Polka Dots

Dark Grey Socks with Burgundy and White Clocks in Cotton - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Dark Grey Socks with Burgundy and White Clocks in Cotton

My trousers are plain charcoal and my shoes are black and cap-toed and therefore somewhat formal. They are derby shoes rather than oxfords but I felt that this was fine because as we’ve already established, the Kingsmen themselves play a little bit fast and loose with this rule.

You can find the tie and socks that I’m wearing in today’s video in the Fort Belvedere shop along with a wide variety of other menswear accessories that could suit both a super spy as well as the average man who just cares about proper men’s style.

Reader Comments

  1. Another really perceptive and elegant piece of writing. Thank you.

    Might I draw your attention to Eggsy’s uniform? It is meant to be that of a general in the British Army, judging by the gold embellishments on the red collar gorgets and the width of the epaulettes. He is also wearing two medals, either that of a Member of the Most Distinguished Service Order (DSO) or that of an Officer of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire (Military) (MBE). There is another medal in the grouping but not quite clear. I suspect it is one of HM The Queen’s Jubilee Medals. On his right breast he wears the General Service Medal, it is incorrect to wear it on the right breast, not the left.

    The silver and gold waist sash should have the “tassels” worn on the left side. And finally, he appears to be wearing trousers not overalls. The latter is the term for pants which are skin-tight; naturally they are worn with spurs.

    Please forgive me for being so “picky” but I spent many years in the Army and indeed wore a similar uniform. (I never made general!) Thank you once again for your regular education articles. They are much appreciated.

    Regards, Neil Follett.

    1. Thank you as well for your continued support Neil and for sharing this with us!

  2. I cannot separate the movie with its contrived plot, parody base premise, and intentional overacting from the costume design. They are both intertwined. That said, the movie is a C+ at best, with an inspired yet limited costume design. Yes, the DB suits are quite sharp (in spirit of full transparency, I did purchased the Kingsman POW flannel DB from Mr. Porter when Kingsman #1 debuted) originally you had to order one full size larger than normal from Mr. Porter, which made no sense for a line allegedly influenced by H. Huntsman and Sons. Overall, the tailored got an A- for the tailored DB’s, including Champs tailored-casual and a B- overall for some incredibly uninspired (no desire to buy) costumes. Please note the emphasis on “costumes” as they are most definitely identified as costumes here, whereas in #1 the tailored suits stood out as work wear for the viewer who is a professional.
    As for the “I want that” moments, I was inspired most by Champs wardrobe as it led me to dig out and revive an old RL Purple Label jacket into my Fall/Winter 2020-21 wear, and as in Kingsman #1, Galahad’s solid DB’s which I have put my version back into active rotation. The film was a letdown from #1, but it did have a few interesting moments which I will try to adapt this coming Winter 2021

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