A well-crafted dress shirt is the backbone of any classic wardrobe. Turnbull & Asser, founded in 1885, combines British sartorial heritage with modern ready-to-wear convenience.
Here’s what you need to know when deciding if a Turnbull & Asser shirt is really worth the investment.
Turnbull & Asser History
Understanding the brand’s history helps contextualize its reputation and enduring appeal. This illustrious pedigree demonstrates why Turnbull & Asser remains synonymous with quality and class.
quick facts
Who Are Turnbull & Asser?
- Founded 1885 by John Arthur Turnbull; renamed Turnbull & Asser in 1895 when Ernest Asser joined.
- Flagship store at 71–72 Jermyn Street, London, open since 1903.
- Dressed Sir Winston Churchill (his green velvet “siren suit” remains on display).
- Supplied Robert Redford’s club shirts in The Great Gatsby (now in the Icons Collection).
- Created Heath Ledger’s Joker necktie for The Dark Knight.
- Outfitted James Bond actors, from Sean Connery’s cocktail cuffs to Daniel Craig’s Casino Royale evening shirt and the Kingsman film pieces.
- Royal Warrant Holders, serving the British royal family for generations.
Bond-Inspired Style with Turnbull & Asser Dress Shirt
As a big Bond fan myself, it’ll come as no surprise that I’ve incorporated my Turnbull & Asser shirt into an outfit inspired by James Bond’s iconic country ensemble in Goldfinger. The shirt itself is in a white Sea Island–quality cotton; while it’s not actually Sea Island cotton, the look and feel are fine and smooth, and it features a classic spread collar and double cuffs.
I’ve added a Fort Belvedere tobacco-brown silk-knit tie to match Bond’s look. The jacket is a particularly ’60s cut in a wonderful Reid & Taylor fabric—it looks brown from a distance but holds many different colors in the weave, including reds and greens, making it very easy to pair with different elements of an ensemble. My wool cavalry-twill trousers, again inspired by 007, are a heavyweight country-style classic.
On my feet are a pair of unlined suede chukka boots in a similar tobacco tone to the tie, and a pair of shadow-striped socks from Fort Belvedere keeps the brown tones coherent throughout. I’m topping the ensemble off with a pair of silver-tone predator-and-prey cufflinks—this particular model is the Lion and Gazelle—which harmonize well with the silver tones of my vintage Lincoln watch, fitting nicely with the 1960s elements.
Finally, I’ve added a spritz of cologne that I’m sure Mr Bond would have chosen as the classic gentlemanly scent: the Roberto Ugolini Oxford, a timelessly masculine fragrance. To add a bottle to your collection—or the tie, cufflinks, and socks seen in my outfit, alongside a wealth of other exquisite accessories—head over to the Fort Belvedere website.
What Makes a Turnbull & Asser Shirt?
The ready-to-wear line distills Turnbull & Asser’s craftsmanship into accessible off-the-rack options. Each pillar addresses a core element of shirt quality and wearability.
Fit Options
Choosing the right fit ensures the shirt complements your body type and dressing needs. Turnbull & Asser offers three distinct silhouettes to suit any occasion.
Regular Fit
Classic, balanced proportions—most popular.
Tailored Fit
Sleeker body and sleeves (formerly “Slim”).
Weekend Fit
Straight sides & hem—tuck in or leave out.
Fabric Selection
The choice of fabric defines the shirt’s drape, breathability, and longevity. Turnbull & Asser’s transparency about sourcing empowers informed selection.
- Core: Cotton poplin, twill, linen.
- Luxury: Sea Island cotton, silk, cashmere, and other blends.
- Sourcing:
- Thomas Mason (cotton) & Albini Group (linen)
- West Indian Sea Island cotton via ECCI farmers in Barbados—renowned for its smooth hand and durability
- Eco-credentials: Mother-of-pearl buttons (zero waste); shells repurposed as fertilizer.
Construction Details
Meticulous construction underpins shirt durability and comfort. Every stitch and reinforcement contributes to a garment that lasts.
- Made in Gloucester, England with ~19 stitches/inch for strength.
- Five-sided gusset hand-sewn at side seams for reinforcement.
- Floating collar linings (bias-cut interlinings) for natural shape.
- Removable plastic stays, easily swapped for metal ones.
Shirt Stays & Collar Stays Guide
Signature Styling
Stylistic details like collars and cuffs shape the shirt’s formality and versatility. Turnbull & Asser offers signature elements that become instantly recognizable.
- Kent Collar (medium spread)—the house staple.
- TNA Collar (narrower spread) & button-downs also available.
- Barrel Cuffs: Three vertical buttons, straight edge.
- Double Cuffs: Cufflink-ready, buttonhole set close to the wrist.
- Turnback (Cocktail) Cuff: Made famous by Sean Connery’s James Bond.
Maintenance & Sustainability Services
Ongoing care and repair extend the life of a quality shirt. Turnbull & Asser’s service offerings reflect their commitment to sustainable stewardship.
- Collar & cuff replacement refreshes worn shirts:
- White “Winchester” style option if original cloth is unavailable.
- Turnaround ~4 weeks; ≈ $150 per collar or cuff set.
- Reduced packaging and transparent sourcing align with eco-friendly values.
Is it Worth It?
Turnbull & Asser ready-to-wear shirts deliver unmistakable heritage and a classic business aesthetic—but they aren’t without practical compromises. Here’s my experience:
Timeless, formal appeal
The Kent collar and crisp double cuffs look impeccable with a tie, making these shirts perfect for conservative office environments or formal events. Their consistent quality and repair services (recollars, recuffs) mean they can stay in rotation for years.
Limited Versatility
That same formality can feel restrictive off-duty. The medium-spread Kent collar doesn’t sit as well open, and the tailored styling reads “business” more than “casual.”
High-Maintenance Construction
With ~19 stitches per inch and high-tension seams, these shirts show fine craftsmanship, but ironing takes longer. The tight seams can pucker when damp, so plan extra time for a flawless press. Some wearers also note that their collar points can curl over time.
How To Iron A Dress Shirt
Cost vs. Alternatives
At $365–$825 retail, Turnbull & Asser shirts carry a premium for brand heritage and British-made construction. If you’re open to secondhand finds, eBay listings often halve that investment.
For a similar hand-finished feel at $200–$300 new, consider Neapolitan makers like Camiceria Sannino or Luca Avitabile, which boast hand-sewn collars and collars in comparable luxury fabrics.
Bottom Line
If you prize a storied name, in-house repairs, and a sharp, business-first look, Turnbull & Asser is hard to beat. If you need more casual versatility or seek a stronger value-for-handwork ratio, exploring other artisans—or hunting for Turnbull & Asser bargains on the secondary market—may better suit your wardrobe.
Which heritage shirting label earns a permanent spot in your wardrobe? Drop your thoughts!
Frequently Asked Questions
Are Turnbull & Asser shirts worth the price?
It depends on your priorities. If you value British heritage, traditional craftsmanship, and a conservative business aesthetic, Turnbull & Asser shirts justify their $365–$825 price tag. However, if you’re seeking more casual versatility or a higher degree of handwork for the money, Neapolitan shirtmakers might offer better value.
Where are Turnbull & Asser shirts made?
All ready-to-wear shirts are handcrafted in Gloucester, England, using fabrics from prestigious mills such as Thomas Mason, Albini, and Alumo.
What makes their shirts special compared to other brands?
T&A shirts feature a high stitch density (~19 stitches/inch), hand-sewn gussets, floating collar linings, and a signature Kent collar. The brand is also known for historic clientele, including James Bond actors and Sir Winston Churchill.
Can I repair or refresh an old Turnbull & Asser shirt?
Yes. The brand offers a re-collaring and re-cuffing service (~$150 per element) to extend the life of your favorite shirts—especially helpful if the original fabric is no longer available.
Do Turnbull & Asser shirts work for casual wear?
Not particularly. Their design leans formal—especially with the Kent collar, which is best worn with a tie. For casual shirting, brands that specialize in relaxed tailoring may be a better fit.
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Thank you, great review.
I prefer my Eton shirts, mostly for their easy (non) ironing and how they wear without tie.
Pricewise also quite a difference
I have quite a few T&A items. A couple of 007 themed shirts (Dr No and Casino Royale), both excellent, a wing collar dress shirt and a couple of business style shirts (blue/white). I have 7 bow ties (regular black, Casino Royale black, white, and some ‘funnies’), a silk knit necktie and a couple of themed pocket squares.
The quality of the products is excellent, I haven’t had any issues with any of them. The wing collar shirt, for example, is the only one I have where the wing collar actually sits straight, unlike the 5 or so others I’ve had over the years from different vendors (one from another Jermain St tailor), all of which looked pretty stupid after about an hour of wear with the wing collars getting misaligned. The bow ties are easy to tie, forming a nice consistent knot and look really good. Same goes for the necktie.
The price is high, of course, but if that doesn’t bother you too much, then T&A is highly recommended.
Glad to hear you’ve found success with Turnbull & Asse, Huw!