What Men REALLY Wore in the 1950s

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Following the Second World War, the world experienced rapid changes in many facets of life–including menswear! Today, as another installment in our What Men Really Wore series, we’ll hop into our time machine to examine the fashions of the 1950s and determine the good, the bad, and the strange.

When you think of the 1950s, you probably think of good times – rock and roll and, of course, Elvis. Maybe you think about the dawn of TV dinners or that the polio vaccine was invented. Even with all that positive energy, though, it wasn’t enough to prevent the popularization of polyester! Although invented in the 1940s, the ’50s were the decade where synthetic fibers in menswear spread like a plague.

With all that said, the ’50s were certainly cheerier than the 1940s. It was the age of increasing comfort and convenience. The ’50s also saw the birth of the teenager and the rebellious youth, and the different fashions and styles that came along with it.

The 1950s saw the birth of the teenager and the rebellious youth, along with the different fashions and styles.
The 1950s saw the birth of the teenager and the rebellious youth, along with the different fashions and styles.

After all, World War II was over, rations had been loosened or abolished altogether, and it was time to focus on the nice things in life – travel, food, and, of course, fashion. With the prices of fabric rapidly decreasing, it was an opportunity for men to have more clothes, which also meant they now had more casual clothes.

The ’50s saw an explosion of casual clothes that were fueled by stars like James Dean, Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra, and Marlon Brando. Hollywood had defined the fashions since the ’20s, and their hold over the public imagination grew stronger and stronger in the ’50s.

Hollywood actors had defined popular fashions since the 1920s, and this was still true in the '50s.
Hollywood actors had defined popular fashions since the 1920s, and this was still true in the ’50s.

What Men Really Wore in the 1950s – 1. Hats

If other decades give us any indication of what would happen to hat wear, you might assume that they became less popular. Wrong! In fact, the ’50s saw a resurgence of hat wear. Responsible for this renaissance was the fact that men now could dress up again and wear something they liked, instead of a uniform they had to wear.

Some would continue to wear the fedora, but a lot of other styles were available at their disposal now. In the summer, some may sport a boater or a Panama hat, or a straw hat.

Summer hats for men in the 1950s included straw boaters and Panama hats.
Summer hats for men in the 1950s included straw boaters and Panama hats.

Flat caps are around, people wore them for sports or for a more casual look. But, they were a lot more streamlined and less voluminous than the earlier models.

In my mind, the biggest thing that happened in the ’50s was color. There was a lot more color in menswear, which I think was positive. In previous decades, hats used to be black or gray or maybe navy. Now, men were enjoying hats in all different hues.

1950s men enjoyed hats (and hatbands) in many colors.
1950s men enjoyed hats (and hatbands) in many colors.

They also upgraded the hatbands, sometimes adding bird feathers, for more individualization and color or different pleats. Basically, hatbands in hats were somewhat an outlet for creativity. 

2. Hair and Facial Hair

Much like the 1940s, hair was very important in the ’50s. Yes, I just told you men did wear hats, but some skipped them and that was okay. They focused more on their hair and their style. Overall, hairstyles were bigger and more complex than in previous decades for men.

To achieve those glorious and waxy hairstyles, you use something called pomade. You may recall Murray’s or Sweet Georgia Brown.

That stuff’s still around today, but it can rub off on your head in your hatband or your pillowcase or anything else that touches your head. In fact, for me, when I used it, I got a whole lot of pomade acne, which is terrible. So, I stopped using it.

Men back then would typically have a comb with them, so they can get the hairstyle they want and touch upon it no matter where they were.

Popular 1950s hairstyles were the pompadour, the jelly roll (also known as the duck’s arse), and the slick-back. The pompadour was brushed backward and stood high above the forehead. If you’ve seen pictures of Elvis, you’ve likely seen that style before. It was pretty popular with the rock-and-roll scene at the time.

Elvis sporting a pompadour hairstyle.
Elvis sporting a pompadour hairstyle.

The jelly roll was achieved by curling the hair along the side all leading to a point in the middle front. This style was taken to the extreme by The Teddy Boys in Britain and, because of that, it was probably immortalized and heavily associated with that group.

The slick-back style speaks for itself. Men like Cary Grant would wear it. It typically came with a side part. The side of the head was a bit longer than what you see in, maybe, Peaky Blinders or in earlier styles.

In terms of facial hair, most men were shaven in the ’50s. A youthful, sporty yet masculine appearance was important. And so, youthfulness was associated with a shaven look. Older men still sported beards and, some of them, even moustaches.

James Dean, on the other hand, popularized the somewhat rougher, less-shaven look with a bit of stubble, which was a novelty at the time.

James Dean with his less-shaven look.
James Dean with his less-shaven look.

3. Eyewear (Eyeglasses & Sunglasses)

Thanks to the movie stars, sunglasses had really become a symbol of wealth and style. Really, they served a practical purpose, but it was much more about glamour and representing success. Of course, the sunny climate in California helped Hollywood to shoot movies outside and so, sunglasses came in handy. Because of that, the purchase of sunglasses rose significantly in the 1950s.

Due to the influence of actors, sales of sunglasses went up in the 1950s.
Due to the influence of actors, sales of sunglasses went up in the 1950s.

For women, the famous style was a cat-eye style as popularized by Audrey Hepburn. For men, spectacles took the shape of a thick-rim plastic frame, as inspired by Hollywood actors and icons at the time, such as Buddy Holly or Phil Silvers.

Browline glasses were also still popular at the time and, more importantly, they could come in different colors. Black, blue, orange, imitation tortoiseshell, or even clear frames were seen on men in the ’50s.

Browline glasses came in different colors.
Browline glasses came in different colors.

4. Waistcoats (Vests)

So, what happened to the waistcoat in the ’50s? Well, it wasn’t as essential anymore as it was in previous decades for the business suit. And so, some men skipped it.

Young men, especially aspiring young men, would wear the vest. However, they would often wear a contrasting vest and it could be contrasting the material. For example, a knit vest in a different color or a wool doeskin skin vest.

Odd (contrasting) waistcoats were popular in the 1950s.
Odd (contrasting) waistcoats were popular in the 1950s.

Some waistcoats had lapels, others didn’t, some had two pockets, others four. Overall, if you wore a waistcoat, it was a fashion choice, not a necessity for heating purposes. A very few select men would keep wearing the three-piece suit with a matching vest. But, it wasn’t as popular during the ’50s.

5. Shirts & Collars

By the 1940s, the shirt collar had now firmly evolved to be attached to the shirt, unlike in the 1920s or 1910s. Detachable collars were hardly around anymore and only reserved for special evening functions, really. Think about Black Tie, White Tie, or morning wear. And even then, it was perfectly acceptable at this time to wear a soft turn-on collar with your Black Tie tuxedo ensemble.

The few men who chose detachable collars typically wore plastic collars or trubenized collars from the 1940s.

There’s a style in the ’50s, some sort of a revival of the club collar with rounded corners. Other than that, the spearpoint collar was still around and so was a collar with shorter points. Because the collars were softer than before, most of them were buttoned down or they had a tab or you still wore them with a collar clip or a collar pin.

Initially, in the ’50s, shirt colors were bold. But, as the decade went on, they became more pastel, less extreme, both in color and in pattern. But, overall, a more humble approach was taken towards business wear, towards the latter part of the 1950s. Some may argue that the shirt just got quieter. So, the ties could shine more in all their colorful brightness.

Some men still wear cufflinks, but the barrel cuff had become really popular at the time. And because the waistcoat was often gone now, you’d find at least one chest pocket on the left side of a shirt.

As these two men illustrate, choosing to wear one's shirt collar unbuttoned and without neckwear was an option in the 1950s.
As these two men illustrate, choosing to wear one’s shirt collar unbuttoned and without neckwear was an option in the 1950s.

The ’50s had its fair share of bold colorful ties. Yet, in the same decade, you could wear a suit as a man without having to wear a tie or a bow tie. That meant leaving your shirt unbuttoned or wearing a shirt with a camp collar that wasn’t meant to be buttoned in the first place.

Typically, the top button was undone, maybe the top two; unless you were James Dean, then you could button up your shirt a lot further down. And, as we had talked about in our other guide, James Dean was quite an iconic man of fashion in the ’50s, and his style is being emulated up to this day.

Casual Clothing

The ’50s began the spread of casual clothing. Casual back then didn’t mean what casual means today. Because of the lowered prices for fabric, such as polyester, men were able to afford more clothes. That meant they didn’t just have to buy dress shirts. They could also have a Hawaiian shirt or a T-shirt, and just have a broader approach to clothing in general.

I mean, honestly, the whole T-shirt fashion and craze that lasts on to this day started in 1951 with Marlon Brando in the movie “A Streetcar Named Desire.” In that movie, Brando famously wore his undershirt with nothing on top of it. Back in the day, they must have felt like someone just showing up with their underwear.

Marlon Brando wearing only his undershirt in A Streetcar Named Desire.
Marlon Brando wearing only his undershirt in A Streetcar Named Desire.

Back to casual shirts, then. They had stripes, colorful checks, and geometric patterns. Even corduroy, in a kind of fine wale cord, was popular. This started due to the popularity of knit shirts, which were more popular during the colder months of the year.

Another form of the shirt that was rather popular back then was the gaucho, which is the word for a South American “cowboy.” The gaucho shirt was, simply put, a pullover shirt that had an open collar. The exact spread of the collar would change throughout the decade, depending on the preferences of style. The open collar was typically fastened with a zip or with a button and a loop.

A black and white gaucho shirt.
A black and white gaucho shirt.

Depending on how casual the occasion was, men could wear their camp collar shirts, sometimes untucked. In that case, the hem was cut straight all around. And, sometimes, they had side pockets at the bottom as you would, maybe, know them from pajamas, which we tackle in another guide.

6. Neckties & Bow Ties

Ties were still widely popular, even at the workplace. But, some opted to go without them and it was okay. In terms of sizes, typically, you had one for wider spread collars that was about three and a half inches wide, then a slimmer width about two inches for narrower collars. Most ties were tipped now, unlike in the ’30s where most ties weren’t. But, of course, you could still find untipped ties.

Fifties’ ties came in a huge variety of patterns and colors, including center medallions or center patterns, which were much harder to produce because, if you have something printed on a tie, it has to be centered at the top and the bottom. Nothing can shift towards production. So, they’re much harder to produce than, a polka dot or a geometric pattern that is the same all over the tie.

Abstract patterns, fantastical patterns, as well as geometric patterns in bold colors and multi-colors were popular in the 1950s.
Abstract patterns, fantastical patterns, as well as geometric patterns in bold colors and multi-colors were popular in the 1950s.

That being said, abstract patterns, fantastical patterns, as well as geometric patterns in bold colors and multi-colors were popular.

The material range was rayon, polyester, silk, wool, or even cotton. Also, men did wear knit ties in the ’50s. Towards the later part of the ’50s, ties, just like shirts, toned down a bit. The patterns became less extreme and so did the colors.

Bow Ties

Yes, men still wore bow ties, and at the very beginning of the ’50s, the bow tie was bigger and wider. Towards the mid-50s, the bow tie had become quite slim and a little longer, which was a typical 1950s look.

In the ’40s, things were shorter and fatter. So, the ’50s bow ties are very characteristic when you watch an old movie or old photos. Also, it seems like the color range of bow ties in the ’50s was really expanded. Previously, black was popular, maybe navy with polka dots. But, now, you had pastel tones and patterns in colors like chartreuse and ochre.

The color and size range of bow ties in the 1950s was really expanded.
The color and size range of bow ties in the 1950s was really expanded.

While self-tie bow ties and neckties were still a standard, some men felt it wasn’t convenient enough. They didn’t know how to properly tie a tie. And because of that, you find all these clip-on bow ties or tuck-on bow ties or whatever it is.

There was no standardized mechanism. Some had a band that was elastic around it, others just an open hook. But, the overall idea of not tying your own neckwear became firmly established in the 1950s. How convenient! It must be said, though, that nothing makes you look more like a schoolboy than a pre-tied necktie or, especially, bow tie! 

Nothing makes a man look more like a schoolboy than pre-tied neckwear.
Nothing makes a man look more like a schoolboy than pre-tied neckwear.

We put together a step-by-step guide that explains how to tie a bow tie the easy way for beginners. If you follow it, you can do it. It’s fairly simple. It’s really like tying your shoe. Just on your neck. It takes a little practice, but most everyone can do it, including you. 

And if you’re not sure about tie knots, we put together popular tie knots with hands-on, easy step-by-step tutorials that you can follow, so you never have to wear clip-on ties or bow ties.

7. Suits, Sport Coats, & Leisure Jackets

Early in the decade, you still found a typical American sack suit – no front darts, cut very straight, and baggier with a center vent. Lapels were a bit narrower. There was also a bit less shoulder padding. The buttoning point was quite a bit lower and the bottom button on a single-breasted jacket usually sat in line with the pockets.

Overall, suits were rather conservative. The most popular color was probably gray, but you could also find blacks or browns or navies in suiting. Generally, the mid to late-50s was a very somber time and we typically saw a gray suit with a white shirt.

Suits were rather conservative in the 1950s.
Suits were rather conservative in the 1950s.

Frankly, I have tons of tailoring magazines from the ’50s from Germany. And if you look at those suits, they all look very chiseled. There is no wrinkle anywhere. So, they used heavier fabrics. They still had horsehair interlinings, floating canvas, but much stiffer than what you’re used to these days from Naples, for example.

Fabrics were wool or flannels, but people also liked mohair. If you’re not familiar with it, it’s an expensive fiber. It is often blended with wool for evening wear because there’s a sparkle. It really is much more coarse than wool. It’s not soft at all. But, it doesn’t wrinkle and it’s a cool material. I like it!

Mohair is both lustrous and wrinkle-resistant.
Mohair is both lustrous and wrinkle-resistant.

Double-breasted jackets were around in the ’50s, but single-breasted ones were more popular. In line with a single-breasted jacket, the double-breasted jacket had a low buttoning point. The lapels were a bit wider, but not too wide. The tips were often rounded or more heavily rounded than you might see today.

The late ’50s saw the emergence of the more “continental style” or Roman-style suit which was invented by Brioni. Brioni is still around today even though under different ownership. But, back then, it was founded by Gaetano Savini and Nazareno Fonticoli in Rome.

They had a very distinct style. It was narrower, unlike the American sack-style suit. It had darts, it was a bit shorter, it had all the hallmarks of the traditional tailored suit, and it became really popular with elegant men.

Unlike the typical American sack suit that has center vents, the Roman-style suit has side vents.
Unlike the typical American sack suit that has center vents, the Roman-style suit has side vents.

Also, the American sack suit typically had a center vent, whereas the Roman-style jacket had side vents. And if you look at jackets today, most jackets still have side vents. That goes back to that period of time with a Roman-style suit, where this became just much more popular.

Also, the original Roman jacket often had more elegant jetted pockets, not flat pockets. And, oftentimes, they were slightly angled to create a more dynamic look.

Leisure Jackets and Sport Coats

Of course, the suit jacket was just one thing. The ’50s was also the decade of the leisure jacket. Yes, to the office, men would still wear mostly suits, but once they were home, they wore more comfortable stuff. Think of a cardigan or a jumper or sweater. That was rather popular.

Typically, they had bright colors in green. They sometimes had multiple colors knitted into them, and, again, color was a big thing in the ’50s.

If you weren’t just home but you would go out and about at a non-work function, oftentimes, men would start wearing sport coats. These were jackets that had more casual features such as patch pockets. They were in colors that were bolder, tartans or plaids, or just something that was more fun and more outgoing than the typical somber business suit.

I mean, there were lots of variations – two, three, four buttons, little details, and changes, but most of them would have patch pockets and have a two-button style.

Men started wearing sport coats to non-work functions.
Men started wearing sport coats to non-work functions.

A Word on Youth Culture

In America, there were several rebellious youth groups. One of them was the jock, the other popular one the greaser. And on the other side of the pond, there was the teddy boy.

Jocks

The jock was a typical cool kid in high school who was part of the sports team. He would wear a varsity jacket, which meant it was a wool torso with leather sleeves. It also had sports or school logos embroidered or an emblem on it. Typically quite large, it basically was a badge of honor that signaled that they were an accomplished sportsman or just part of a team.

The jock was a typical cool kid in high school who was part of the sports team.
The jock was a typical cool kid in high school who was part of the sports team.

Greasers

The greasers, on the other hand, were typically men that wore big hairstyles with leather motorcycle jackets, white t-shirt, and jeans. They were extremely rebellious to the idea of the quiet 1950s life.

It is said that Stanley Kramer was inspired by a small motorcycle gang when he came up with the idea for the movie “The Wild One.” This movie, along with “On The Waterfront” from 1954 and “Rebel Without A Cause” from 1955, really made this whole style more established with America’s youth. James Dean, Marlon Brando became icons and even Elvis wore part of that greaser-style stuff.

Marlon Brando, James Dean, and Elvis Presley were three prominent wearers of "greaser" fashions.
Marlon Brando, James Dean, and Elvis Presley were three prominent wearers of “greaser” fashions.

So, what did greasers wear on their feet? Well, actually, some of them were Converse shoes, which used to be the gym shoes, which are now more acceptable in casual wear, or they wore leather biker boots.

Teddy Boys

Across the pond, things were very different. The youth rebellion there took on a pseudo-Edwardian take with their big jelly-rolled hair, lovingly called the “duck’s arse.” They wore interpretations of frock coats or drape jackets that were sometimes trimmed with velvet. Paired with a waistcoat, watch chain, bow tie or bolo tie, and brothel creeper shoes, the outfit was perfect for the Teddy Boy.

A group of men wearing the Teddy Boy style.
A group of men wearing the Teddy Boy style.

So, what are creepers? Well, brothel creepers or creepers are somewhat casual shoes, often with a suede upper. But, it can also be in a smooth leather with a characteristic thick crepe sole. Typically, they’re very low rise and not anything I would wear today.

8. Trousers & Shorts

Trousers haven’t changed too much since the ’40s. They were still cut wider than trousers today with hem, on average, being about nine and a half inches wide open.

Many trousers still featured two pleats, but you could also find flat-front pants now. Some trousers were uncuffed, but you would see a lot more cuffs in the ’50s. And, typically, they were two and a half inches or about six to six and a half centimeters tall.

Many trousers still featured two pleats, but you could also find flat-front pants.
Many trousers still featured two pleats, but you could also find flat-front pants.

On some sporting trousers, the cinch belt in the back even made a comeback, but it was short-lived.

Men in the ’50s did not only wear trousers, but they also wore shorts. Often, they were pleated and pretty much cut like a pair of dress trousers, but they had bolder patterns – plaids, tartans, checks – in bolder colors.

Influenced by "Bermuda style," men in the 1950s began wearing shorts more often.
Influenced by “Bermuda style,” men in the 1950s began wearing shorts more often.

In full Bermuda fashion though, you would wear them with over-the-calf socks. Yes, knee-high socks. Just like in the Bermudas!

9. Shoes (Formal & Casual)

The typical Oxfords and brogues in black, brown were still around. Sometimes, you could also find white or off-white shoes that were popular and so were saddle shoes.

Perhaps the strangest part of 1950s footwear is the “winklepicker,” which is a very pointed shoe that looks pretty odd. It’s probably great for digging holes in the garden, but there is a reason this fad was short-lived.

Winklepicker Shoes
Winklepicker Shoes

A ’50s shoe trend that survived until today is the chukka boots, which we have a dedicated guide to. We also reviewed the Clarks’ chukka boot, which has become synonymous with the chukka boot itself.

Again, color was a big thing in the ’50s and that was part of the shoes. Elvis, for example, popularized the blue suede shoes. It’s not so popular again today, but back then, you could totally wear that.

Elvis Presley wearing a pair of blue suede shoes.
Elvis Presley wearing a pair of blue suede shoes.

Let’s also not forget that leather slippers became really popular around your home. They were padded a little more and were comfortable.

10. Overcoats

Overcoats in the 1950s were interesting. Often, they were single-breasted, sometimes also double-breasted. But, overall, they were cut much wider and baggier. Also, they were cut from heavier cloth, so they would drape nicely.

Colors were brown, gray, or black, but their fabrics had a much larger color depth, oftentimes by adding multiple colors into the weave, therefore allowing you to wear it with all sorts of color in your hat or your pants or your shoes.

1950s overcoats were generally subdued in color, but not always bland!
1950s overcoats were generally subdued in color, but not always bland!

In terms of popularity, you see a lot of double-breasted overcoats in photos and videos, but you can also spot single-breasted ones. If they were double-breasted, they typically had big patch pockets. Personally, I’m a big fan of double-breasted overcoats because, when it’s cold outside, you want that double overlapping layer of cloth because that keeps you warm.

Another popular overcoat seen in the ’50s was the Ulster, as well as the Paletot overcoat.

11. Accessories (Belts, Scarves, & More)

Last but not least, let’s look at the 1950s accessories. Belts were a lot more popular than suspenders. Also, woven leather belts were just interesting colors and changes were something that men would wear at the time. Coupled with unique-looking belt buckles, it really was a way for a man to express his individuality.

Unique-looking belt buckles were a way for a man to express his individuality.
Unique-looking belt buckles were a way for a man to express his individuality.

Wearing a scarf also known as a “muffler” was definitely something most gentlemen would do during the 1950s. Men would also wear gloves during the winter, which were nice leather dress gloves in bolder colors.

In our Fort Belvedere shop, you can find gloves that are more interesting in color than the usual gloves, and the same with scarves that are double-sided. Very much in line with what the ’50s were about – an increase in color and expression of individuality.

Most gentlemen in the 1950s would wear a scarf also known as a "muffler", paired with leather gloves.
Most gentlemen in the 1950s would wear a scarf also known as a “muffler”, paired with leather gloves.

The same was true for socks and pocket squares. They were a bit bolder than in previous or following decades.

Conclusion

The ’50s were a colossal decade for men’s fashion because a lot of color came back, a lot of casual items came into style, and that was entirely new compared to previous decades. It also helped that consumerism was booming – people were willing to spend and they wanted to enjoy themselves again.

Honestly, there’s such a wide range of clothing out of the 1950s. It was hard to press it all into this guide, but I hope we’ve given you a good enough overview.

Outfit Rundown

I am wearing a bold pair of tartan plaid trousers in green, navy, white, red, and charcoal. My polo shirt is white and simple. I don’t have one with a chest pocket; otherwise, I would have worn that. But, this is modern. It is not an original 1950s vintage. My belt is woven with some leather and a gold brass buckle and I’m pairing it with a pinky ring that also has a bloodstone in red and dark green, picking up the colors of my shorts.

Raphael's outfit is a very casual take on this decade.
Raphael’s outfit is a very casual take on this decade.
Dark Grey Socks with Burgundy and White Clocks in Cotton

Fort Belvedere

Dark Grey Socks with Burgundy and White Clocks in Cotton

I am wearing them Bermuda-style with a pair of over-the-calf socks. I opted for a charcoal pair with clocks. It’s a solid color with a little pattern and I’m wearing a pair of PF Flyers, an off-white color that matches my belt. They are very similar to Converse shoes. They have this thick rubber sole or a canvas-style sneaker. Lots of eyelets. And, overall, rather casual.

If you’re interested in high-quality over-the-calf socks, such as the pair I am wearing, you can find them in our shop here.

What 1950s style did you find most interesting and would you wear it today? Comment down and let’s talk about true 1950s menswear!