First 10 Dress Shirts a Man Should Own

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Dress shirts are one of the most important style basics in any wardrobe. While many men own dress shirts, they often struggle to make them work seamlessly with the rest of their outfits. Over the years, we’ve gained valuable insights into what makes a dress shirt truly versatile and essential. If we were to start from scratch, we’d recommend these 10 foundational dress shirts that every man should own. 

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Dress shirts are fundamental to a classic man’s wardrobe, yet they often receive less attention than suits, shoes, or accessories. Selecting the right dress shirts is essential, as poorly chosen ones can be challenging to coordinate and may remain unworn—which we certainly want to avoid because each purchase should be worthwhile and must serve its purpose.

With these considerations in mind, let’s explore the best dress shirts for men to establish a versatile wardrobe foundation, ensuring preparedness for various style scenarios with a minimal yet impactful investment.

A selection of dress shirts

Dress Shirt Details to know

Men’s Dress Shirt Guide – Fit, Collar, Cuffs & Details

A quick reference for essential dress shirt details that will help you make informed decisions when selecting different types of shirts. Understanding aspects like fit, collar styles, cuff types, and other design details allows you to choose shirts that best suit your needs and preferences.

Essential Long Sleeve Dress Shirts for Men: Formal

1. White Dress Shirts

Choose a Plain Weave White Dress Shirt as Your Wardrobe Staple

Close-up of a plain weave white dress shirt fabric
A plain weave white dress shirt fabric is a must-have for a gentleman’s wardrobe.

Opt for a medium spread collar and barrel cuffs for versatility

A white dress shirt in plain woven fabric is the cornerstone of a formal wardrobe. We recommend choosing a medium spread collar and barrel cuffs for maximum versatility. This combination allows the shirt to work well in formal and casual settings, pairing seamlessly with jeans or a formal business suit.

While cufflinks add a touch of elegance, they require a double cuff or French cuff. For your first shirt, it’s best to skip this additional expense and focus on building a practical wardrobe with barrel cuffs.

Select a medium-weight fabric for year-round wear

To make a plain weave dress shirt even more adaptable, opt for a medium-weight fabric suitable for year-round wear. A lighter fabric would be too specific to summer, while a heavier one would be limited to colder months. With a medium-weight option, you get a shirt that covers various occasions throughout the year.

Go for a French placket and skip the pocket for a clean look

For the placket, a French style is ideal. Sewn underneath the buttons, the neat seam gives a streamlined look without extra fabric.

Comparison between a dress shirt with a French placket and one with a standard placket with extra fabric
A French placket, shown on the left, provides a clean, streamlined look by sewing the seam under the buttons.

We also suggest skipping the pocket, as shirt pockets are rarely used and can detract from the clean appearance.

A white dress shirt with a pocket
Skip the pocket for a cleaner look!

Many off-the-rack options may come with pockets, but when you have the opportunity to go custom dress shirts, it’s best to opt for a pocket-free design.

If you like non-iron shirts, Eton is a good option.
If you like non-iron shirts, Eton is a good option.

If you’re looking for something low-maintenance, consider non-iron dress shirts from Eton. These wrinkle-free dress shirts are perfect for busy professionals or frequent travelers.

Go for a Fancy Weave for an Elegant White Dress Shirt Option

a white dress shirt fabric with a subtle fancy weave pattern
A fancy weave pattern adds texture to formal attire.

The fancy weave white dress shirt is an elegant option to your white dress shirt collection, with a refined, textured pattern. Best worn as a French cuff shirt, it’s an ideal choice for formal occasions where you want to add a subtle twist to classic white.

We love dress shirts that stand out due to a subtle waffle pattern weave, which sets them apart from a plain weave. When viewed closely and in the right lighting, the pattern adds depth, but from a distance, it appears as a solid white shirt with an appealing texture.

Consider a standard placket for variety

As with other formal men’s white dress shirt options, it’s best to skip the pocket to maintain a sleek appearance. If you went with a French placket before, go with a shirt placket this time simply so you have a range of different things in your wardrobe. A shirt placket creates a symmetrical look, especially if you wear a bow tie. However, for necktie wearers, the placket style is less crucial since the tie covers it.

A navy jacket, white shirt, green and red wool challis bow tie with diamond points, and a large print pattern green pocket square for a cool, green fall/winter inspired look.
A fancy weave white dress shirt with a front placket worn with an olive green micropattern bow tie
A green silk wool pocket square worn with a jacket and wool challis bow tie.
Another white dress shirt with a front placket accessorized with a red bow tie and an olive green paisley silk wool pocket square

Try Herringbone as an alternative to waffle weave

If you do not fancy the waffle pattern, you can go with a herringbone pattern
If you do not fancy the waffle pattern, you can go with a herringbone pattern.

If the waffle weave doesn’t appeal to you, a fine herringbone pattern is another classic and timeless choice. Whichever weave you choose, opt for a medium spread collar. This collar style suits all face shapes and works well with tie knots and bow ties. It also looks polished when worn open for a more relaxed appearance.

Here’s the Secret to Keeping Your White Shirts…White!

2. Ivory Dress Shirt

The ivory dress shirt offers a subtle yet essential variation from plain white. When held side by side, the difference is clear, but on its own, it remains understated.

Ideal Color Pairings for Ivory

While plain white dress shirts pair best with dark hues such as black, dark green, navy, or charcoal, they can appear too stark when matched with warmer colors like brown or earthy tones. This is where the ivory shirt excels.

A rack of tweed jackets.

You can pair ivory shirts with…

Dark hues and warm tones

Ivory dress shirts provide a softer contrast that complements tweed and warmer shades effortlessly, making it a versatile choice for business and casual settings. An ivory shirt pairs beautifully with a charcoal or navy business suit but also fits seamlessly with summer suits or outfits featuring warmer tones.

Choosing the Right Cuffs

For the cuffs, your choice depends on how you plan to wear the shirt. If you frequently use cufflinks, opt for a French cuff. Otherwise, a barrel cuff is a more practical option that balances formality with everyday wear. Once your wardrobe basics are in place, the ivory dress shirt becomes an ideal travel companion.

How to style off-white?

3. Blue/Light Blue Dress Shirts

A selection of light blue dress shirts in different shades
A selection of light blue dress shirts in different shades

Choose a Light Blue Dress Shirt in Plain Weave

A blue dress shirt is a must-have because of its universal appeal and versatility. Unlike white, which can sometimes feel stark, light blue adds a hint of color that complements almost every suit color, from navy to gray.

Similar to the white dress shirts, we recommend getting your first light blue dress shirt in a medium-weight fabric, preferably in a plain weave. This weight ensures that the shirt is suitable for various occasions throughout the year.

Again, choose barrel cuffs for a practical and versatile option, and opt for a pocket-free, french placket dress shirt to maintain a clean and streamlined appearance.

Select a versatile shade of light blue

When selecting the shade of light blue, keep in mind that there are countless variations. A pastel or lighter shade of blue is a great starting point, as it offers maximum versatility. The softer hue of blue pairs effortlessly with both formal suits and more casual outfits, making it an essential piece in any classic wardrobe.

Consider a Twill Weave Blue Dress Shirt for Texture and Durability

For a distinctive yet classic addition to your wardrobe, consider a twill weave blue dress shirt. You can choose a darker or lighter shade, but make sure it differs from your existing light blue options. The twill weave features a subtle diagonal pattern, which enhances the fabric’s durability and resistance to wrinkles. This structure allows the fabric to drape well, offering a polished look for the wearer.

You can also opt for a twill weave for blue dress shirts
You can also opt for a twill weave pattern for blue dress shirts.

In addition, a blue dress shirt in twill weave works particularly well in a slightly heavier weight and is ideal for colder months. It also provides seasonal variety. Conversely, consider lighter-weight fabrics to stay comfortable if you live in a tropical or warm climate.

Experiment with double cuffs and a larger collar

Double cuffs are the best choice for this shirt. This is also an opportunity to experiment with tailored dress shirts. Go for a slightly larger collar rather than a small one. If your previous light blue shirt features barrel cuffs, opting for a French cuff here will give you greater versatility and a better sense of style.

Essential Collared Dress Shirts: Formal

Note: This section explores the essential collar styles in detail, giving you the background needed to make thoughtful, informed decisions about your formal dress shirts.

Spread Collar

A spread collar paired with the Half Windsor Knot looks fantastic
An example of a spread collar

Medium Spread Collar

The medium spread collar is a classic choice that complements a wide variety of face shapes and tie knots. This collar style works seamlessly with traditional neckties and bow ties, offering a polished appearance when buttoned and an elegant yet approachable look when worn open.

Wide Spread Collar

The wide-spread collar is designed for a bolder and more distinguished look. With a greater distance between the collar points, this style is ideal for larger tie knots, such as the Windsor, and is perfect for men with longer or more angular face shapes. The wide-spread collar exudes confidence, making it a go-to choice for formal events and high-power business meetings.

Point Collar

Light yellow striped Winchester shirt with point collar pairted with Wool Challis Tie in Sunflower Yellow with Green,Blue and Red Pattern from Fort Belvedere
Example of a Point collared dress shirt (Tie: Sunflower Yellow Patterned Wool Challis Tie – Fort Belvedere)

The point collar is another classic option for its versatility and subtle elegance. Its collar points angled closer together create a more elongated appearance, making it especially flattering for rounder face shapes. The point collar is a staple in business dress shirts, offering a more traditional and understated look. It pairs well with slim ties and looks impeccable under structured suits, making it a must-have for professional attire.

Club Collar

A white shirt with a club collar, worn with a collar pin and red striped tie, under a blue and green cardigan sweater.
Example of a white shirt with a club collar, worn with a collar pin and red striped tie, under a blue and green cardigan sweater.

The club collar, characterized by its rounded edges, adds a touch of vintage charm to any formal outfit. Originally popularized in the early 20th century, the club collar has made a stylish comeback in modern men’s fashion. This collar style works best with narrow ties and smaller tie knots (Four-in-Hand knot), and it can be enhanced with a collar pin for an extra dose of dapper flair. The club collar is ideal for those looking to add a unique element to their dress shirt collection.

Shirt Collar Styles for Men: The Complete Guide

Frequently Ask Questions

What is a good quality shirt?

A high-quality dress shirt features premium cotton fabric, precise single-needle stitching, and mother-of-pearl buttons. For a comprehensive understanding of what defines a superior dress shirt, explore our detailed guide about the hallmarks of a quality dress shirt.

How many dress shirts should a man own?

A minimum of 6 to 10 shirts for rotation, depending on your lifestyle.

How are men’s dress shirts supposed to fit?

The collar should be snug but comfortable, shoulders aligned with your frame, and sleeves ending at the wrist bone.

What color shirt is most attractive for men?

White and light blue are universally flattering and work well in most situations.

Where should men’s dress shirt sleeves end?

A well-fitted men’s dress shirt should have sleeves that end at the base of the thumb, allowing about half an inch of the shirt cuff to be visible beyond the suit jacket sleeve. Refer to our detailed article for a comprehensive guide on finding the right shirt sleeve length.

How often should I replace dress shirts?

Replace them when they show signs of wear, like yellowing, fraying, or losing shape.

What are the top four essential color options for a men’s dress shirt line?

White, light blue, ivory, and a striped or checked option.

How to measure for a dress shirt?

Accurate measurements are crucial for a well-fitting dress shirt. Key measurements include neck circumference, chest, waist, shoulder width, sleeve length, and shirt length. Using a flexible measuring tape, ensure the tape is snug but not tight, and measure over a well-fitting undershirt or directly on the body.

How to get rid of sweat stains on dress shirts?

To remove sweat stains, pre-treat the affected areas with a mixture of baking soda and water, applying it to the stains and letting it sit for 20-30 minutes before washing. Alternatively, soaking the stained areas in white vinegar can be effective. For persistent stains, consider using a solution of hydrogen peroxide and water. Always test any treatment on a small, inconspicuous area first. Here’s our detailed guide for removing sweat and deodorant stains.

Are Oxford dress shirts in style?

Yes, Oxford Cloth Button-Down (OCBD) shirts are timeless and remain a staple in men’s wardrobes. OCBD shirts’ versatility allows them to be dressed up or down, making them suitable for various occasions.

Why are men’s white dress shirts too thin nowadays?

The trend towards thinner white dress shirts is often due to manufacturers using lighter fabrics to reduce costs and cater to warmer climates. However, this compromises the opacity and durability. Opting for shirts made from higher-quality materials with a denser weave will provide better coverage and longevity. We discussed the importance of fabric quality in dress shirts here.

What color of a dress shirt is the most common?

White is the most common and versatile dress shirt color. It pairs seamlessly with nearly all suit colors and is appropriate for formal and casual settings. Light blue is another popular choice, offering a slight variation while maintaining versatility.

How to wash dress shirts?

To properly wash dress shirts:

1. Unbutton all buttons, including cuffs and collar.

2. Pre-treat any stains with appropriate solutions.

3. Wash in cold or lukewarm water using a gentle cycle and mild detergent.

4. Avoid using bleach, especially on colored shirts.

5. After washing, hang the shirts to air dry on wooden hangers to maintain shape.

6. Iron while slightly damp for best results. For ironing techniques, check this guide.

What are the softest materials for a dress shirt?

The softest materials for dress shirts include:

Egyptian Cotton: Known for its long fibers, providing a smooth and luxurious feel.

Sea Island Cotton: Offers exceptional softness and durability.

Pima Cotton: Similar to Egyptian cotton, Pima cotton is known for its softness and sheen.

Linen: While slightly rougher initially, high-quality linen softens over time and is breathable.

Why did men stop wearing detachable collars?

Essential Cotton Dress Shirts for Men: Casual

4. Oxford Cloth Button-Down Dress Shirt

Cotton dress shirts are a foundational piece in any man’s wardrobe, thanks to their durability, breathability, and comfort. Among cotton dress shirts, the Oxford Cloth Button-Down (OCBD) stands out as an American classic. A light blue variation is a popular choice, as the Oxford fabric combines strands of white and blue, creating a subtle, textured color effect. The OCBD shirt’s versatility makes it a wardrobe staple, appropriate for both professional and casual settings.

Close-up of an Oxford Cloth Button-Down (OCBD) shirt in light blue, paired with a red houndstooth tie and layered under a green and yellow striped sweater
Casual ensemble featuring a light blue Oxford Cloth Button-Down shirt

The OCBD shirt can be worn with or without a suit, effortlessly adapting to various occasions, and its hard-wearing nature ensures it remains a reliable piece for years. Among button-down dress shirts, it stands out as a top pick for men’s casual dress shirts.

5. Flannel Dress Shirt

A flannel dress shirt provides warmth and style, making it an indispensable choice for cooler seasons. Known for its soft, brushed texture, flannel pairs effortlessly with casual outfits like denim jeans or corduroy trousers.

Flannel dress shirts are perfect for layering under a quilted jacket or a simple T-shirt. Classic patterns such as plaids or checks offer a rugged appeal, ideal for autumn outings and laid-back winter gatherings. As a classic long-sleeved dress shirt for men, flannel is practical and stylish.

Want to Master Flannel Style?

Get tips on pairing and layering your flannel shirts for the perfect casual look.

Preston wearing a navy blue flannel shirt with a burgundy tartan pattern.

6. Soft Washed Denim Dress Shirt

Once considered unconventional, the soft-washed denim dress shirt has become a modern favorite. Its relaxed, casual vibe makes it perfect for toning down more formal outfits or adding a laid-back element to your wardrobe.

When to Wear a Denim Dress Shirt

While it may not suit a strict white-collar work environment, it’s ideal for off-duty days or smart-casual settings. Pair it with chinos or layer it under a blazer for a balanced, easygoing look. 

A denim shirt can look great if combined properly
A denim shirt can look great if combined properly [Image Credit: Pinterest]

Despite initial skepticism about its staying power, the continued trend toward casualization in men’s fashion suggests that this shirt will remain a popular choice for years to come. 

Essential Collared Dress Shirts for Men: Casual

Note: This section covers essential casual collar styles, offering insights to help you choose versatile, comfortable dress shirts for relaxed and semi-formal occasions.

Button-Down Collar

A button down collar is one of the best choices for your flannel shirt
A button-down collar is one of the best choices for your flannel shirt

The button-down dress shirts originated from sportswear and have become a staple in casual and smart-casual wardrobes. It features small buttons at the collar points, keeping the collar neatly in place and giving the shirt a more relaxed and preppy appearance.

Ideal Pairings for a Button-Down Collar Shirt

Button-down collar shirts pair well with blazers and sports coats and can even be worn alone with chinos. While it’s less formal than a spread collar, it remains a classic option for men’s casual dress shirt selections.

Camp/Open Collar

Shirts with camp collar from Drake's
Shirts with camp collar [Image credit: Drake’s]

The camp collar is a relaxed and modern option that adds charm to your casual wardrobe. Characterized by its open, flat-laying design, the camp collar eliminates the need for buttons at the collar points, giving it a laid-back appearance. This collar style is perfect for warm weather and casual settings, such as outdoor gatherings, vacations, or weekend outings.

Ideal Fabrics and Patterns for Camp Collar Shirts

Camp collar shirts are typically crafted from breathable fabrics like linen, lightweight cotton, or silk blends. They often feature bold patterns, vibrant colors, or understated prints, which is great for creating a statement but with a minimalist look. 

Styling Tips for Camp Collar Shirts

Pair a camp collar shirt with tailored shorts, chinos, or denim for a comfortable summer outfit. Layer it under a lightweight blazer or wear it open over a simple T-shirt for a more refined casual look.

Learn how to style camp collars with our Hawaiian shirt guide!

Essential Patterned and Striped Dress Shirts

7. Striped Shirts

A few of Sven Raphael's striped dress shirts
A few of Raphael’s striped dress shirts

Blue Striped Shirt on White Background

The first striped dress shirt we recommend is a blue striped shirt on a white background—a classic choice for adding subtle patterns to your wardrobe. Patterned and striped dress shirts add variety to a collection, making them ideal for men looking beyond solid colors.

When choosing a blue striped shirt, opt for a stripe size that balances boldness and subtlety. Stripes that are too fine may look overly plain, while bold ones can limit your pairing options. A moderate stripe works well with a variety of solid suits, adding visual interest to your ensemble without overwhelming it.

Blue striped shirts pair effortlessly with solid and patterned ties, such as small Macclesfield neats or other subtle micropatterns. It’s a favorite among designer dress shirts for its elegance and versatility.

an outfit with a moderate blue stripe dress shirt on a white background, paired with a bottle green Macclesfield neats tie and layered under a burgundy vest and tan herringbone jacket
An outfit with a moderate blue stripe dress shirt on a white background, paired with a bottle green Macclesfield neats tie
"Outfit featuring a blue and white striped dress shirt paired with a light blue silk knit tie and a brown check suit jacket
A blue striped shirt on a white background paired with a solid light blue silk knit tie
Madder Silk Tie in Bottle Green Macclesfield Neats Blue Orange Pattern - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Green Macclesfield Neats Tie

Knit Tie in Solid Light Blue Silk Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Light Blue Silk Knit Tie

Want to break away from the usual vertical stripes?

White Striped Shirt On A Light Blue Background

Select a stripe size that complements your existing wardrobe for a white striped shirt on a light blue background. A finer stripe is ideal, as it adds depth without overwhelming your outfit. From a distance, it will appear almost solid, providing a versatile look that pairs well with both patterned and solid ties.

The subtlety of the stripe ensures that even when layering patterns, like a striped tie, your overall look remains harmonious and well-balanced. It fits seamlessly into collections of modern dress shirts and stands out as a men’s white dress shirt staple.

Check out our guide for adding classic patterns to your wardrobe

8. Checked Dress Shirt

Outfit featuring a red and blue checked dress shirt paired with dark jeans, a brown belt, and casual loafers
The red and blue checked dress shirt is perfect for pairing with jeans for a smart casual look.

A checked dress shirt is another versatile addition to your wardrobe, available in classic patterns like light blue checks on a white background or red and blue checks on a white background.

Why a Checked Dress Shirt is a Must-Have

Both options add a touch of color and interest to your outfits, and red and blue remain timeless staples that integrate seamlessly into a classic wardrobe. They’re among the most popular choices for affordable dress shirts that don’t compromise on style.

Perfect for Casual Settings with a Button-Down Collar

To reiterate, a button-down collar is an excellent choice for more casual settings, as it complements the relaxed feel of a checked shirt. Button cuffs are also ideal for casual wear, enhancing the laid-back vibe while keeping the shirt comfortable and practical for everyday use.

Curious about grids, plaids, and windowpanes?

Specialty Dress Shirts: Warm Weather Options

For warmer months, having dress shirts made from breathable fabrics like linen and seersucker is essential. These materials are designed to keep you cool and comfortable in high temperatures without sacrificing style.

9. Linen Dress Shirt

The first summer-friendly dress shirt we recommend is the linen dress shirt. The fabric’s lightweight and breathable nature ensures comfort in hot and humid conditions, while its natural texture adds a relaxed elegance.

Linens and Panama hats are best for the warmer months.

Linens are best for warmer months!

Linen’s moisture-wicking properties make it ideal for summer events, from garden parties to coastal getaways.

Opt for neutral shades like white or beige for versatility, or experiment with pastel tones to add a splash of color to your casual wardrobe. You can find linen dress shirts at many retailers near you or have one tailored to your preferences.

10. Seersucker Dress Shirt

The seersucker dress shirt stands out for its distinctive puckered texture, which allows air to circulate and keeps you cool in high temperatures. This lightweight fabric is synonymous with summer style, providing a crisp yet casual appearance.

Seersucker shirts are typically seen in pastel stripes or classic blue and white combinations, pairing well with light-colored trousers or shorts. The shirt’s preppy charm makes it suitable for daytime social events, ensuring you remain comfortable and effortlessly stylish. 

Beat the Heat in Style! Summer & Hot Weather Outfits for Men

Essential Dress Shirt Colors

Building a versatile wardrobe starts with choosing the right dress shirt colors. These foundational hues ensure your shirts are adaptable for various settings, from formal meetings to casual gatherings, making them indispensable in any well-rounded collection.

Dress Shirt ColorsWhy These Colors Are a Must-Have in Your Wardrobe
WhiteWhite complements every skin tone and can be styled in countless ways, whether for a crisp, clean look with a navy suit or paired with bold ties for a striking contrast. It’s the ultimate investment piece for men.
BlueA light blue dress shirt offers a subtle splash of color while maintaining a professional appearance. Consider adding a royal blue dress shirt to your collection for a bolder alternative.
IvoryThe gentle hue sets it apart from stark white, making it ideal for pairing with earthy tones like brown, olive, and taupe. It’s particularly well-suited to complement tweed suits and ensembles with warm color palettes.
PinkPink is particularly flattering on various skin tones and can be a refreshing alternative to traditional white or blue shirts.
Light GreyA light grey dress shirt is a versatile neutral option that can be dressed up or down. It harmonizes with dark and light suits, providing a modern alternative to white shirts. Light grey is particularly effective in creating monochromatic looks.
BurgundyA burgundy dress shirt introduces a rich, deep color to your wardrobe, ideal for autumn and winter. It pairs excellently with navy or grey suits and can be complemented with ties in similar or contrasting tones.

Curious why black is not included in our essential dress shirt colors?

How a Dress Shirt Should Fit

Achieving the perfect fit for a dress shirt is essential for comfort and style. A well-fitted shirt enhances your appearance and ensures ease of movement. Key aspects to consider include:

  • Collar: It should be snug yet comfortable, allowing enough room to insert two fingers between the collar and your neck.
  • Shoulders: The shoulder seams should align precisely with the edge of your shoulders, ensuring a natural drape.
  • Sleeves: They should end at the wrist bone, allowing about half an inch of cuff to show beyond a suit jacket.
  • Chest and Waist: The shirt should fit close to the body without being tight, providing a clean silhouette without excess fabric.

For those requiring specialized sizing, many brands offer big and tall dress shirts to ensure a perfect fit without sacrificing style. Custom dress shirts are also an excellent investment, providing a personalized and precise fit.

For a comprehensive guide on achieving the ideal dress shirt fit, including detailed measurements and additional tips, check our in-depth article.

How a Dress Shirt Should Fit - Proper Styling Details for Men's Shirts

Is Turnbull & Asser Worth It?

Outfit Rundown

I am wearing a classic white fancy weave shirt with a subtle waffle pattern. It features a shirt placket, French cuffs, a medium spread collar, and mother-of-pearl buttons. My cufflinks are gold monkey-fist cufflinks—timeless and versatile. If you’re investing in your first ten dress shirts, these would be the perfect cufflinks to pair with them because they work for almost any occasion. For a second pair, I’d recommend silver cufflinks, which are ideal for both formal evening events and less formal settings like board meetings or the office. They’re a purchase you won’t regret.

Sven wearing a green jacket, brown houndstooth pants, white shirt and Fort Belvedere accessories.
Sven wearing a green jacket, brown houndstooth pants, a white shirt, and Fort Belvedere accessories.

My jacket is green and part of a single-breasted suit, made from a slightly heavier fabric with beautiful color depth. I’ve paired it with a dark green madder silk tie, creating enough contrast, especially against the crisp white shirt. My pocket square ties everything together by picking up the green tones.

Madder Silk Tie in Bottle Green Macclesfield Neats Blue Orange Pattern - Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Bottle Green Macclesfield Neats Madder Silk Tie

Silk Pocket Square in Brown with Blue, Green, Red Large Paisley Pattern- Fort Belvedere

Fort Belvedere

Brown & Green Large Paisley Silk Pocket Square

Mid Brown and Green Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Fil d'Ecosse Cotton

Fort Belvedere

Mid Brown & Green Shadow Stripe Cotton Socks

Monkey Fist Knot Cufflinks - Vermeil Sterling Silver Yellow Gold Plated

Fort Belvedere

Monkey Fist Knot Yellow Gold Vermeil Cufflinks

The trousers, also part of the suit, are a brown and off-white houndstooth flannel. They contrast nicely with the texture of the jacket, and the warm, soft colors complement each other. My shoes are dark green suede tassel loafers, which echo both the brown tones of the trousers and the green of the jacket and tie, completing the look. I’m wearing brown and green shadow stripe socks that harmonize with the overall outfit, unifying the brown and green elements.

Do you have all these dress shirts in your closet? If not, what are your dress shirt essentials?

Reader Comments

  1. Blue chambray, if properly pressed, also adds interesting variety to a wardrobe. Certainly not needed on a top ten list, I admit.

  2. You’ve expressed your preference for “classics”… reaching back to an age when men dressed with greater care, perhaps. I’ve noticed the shirts worn in your videos tend to be unpressed and their collars seem curled. Is that intentional? Why?

    Your videos and articles are the best on the internet regarding sartorial history and construction techniques. I have enjoyed every single one of them.

    Sartorially yours,
    Herbert Carlock

  3. Always associated the checked dress shirt with casual, never dress shirts. Personally, never saw a suited individual wearing one, although with odd jacket combos yes, of course. To me, I would uncheck this shirt as a dress shirt, but de gustibus non disputandum est and all that sort of thing.

    1. I agree, and I’d add the denim shirt to that. I don’t have a problem with this American, informal style (as the owner of a beloved pair of mid-thigh Western leather boots, and several denim shirts), but it is not (and never will be) formal. I have more of a problem with check shirts, whether in a formal or informal setting, however. They just make you look like a geek or a chav in my opinion, but as you so wisely say, to each their own…

  4. Not a bad article and video. However, stay clear of the spread and semi-spread collars. Mr. Raphael…you should be too sophisticated for that…the spread and semi-spread collars are simply inappropriate. In addition , please be more scrupulous in your use or English grammar and sentence construction in our language.

    1. Spread and semi-spread collars are in no way inappropriate for everybody – it’s dependent on the shape of your face. A button-down collar that might look great on a pencilneck with a round or square face looks ridiculous on those of us with oval or diamond-shaped faces and neck sizes bigger than 16″. Being sophisticated entails selecting the best choice to enhance your specific build and look, not simply following arbitrary rules that are defined according to averages that exclude most.

    2. I concur with David V. about avoiding the spread and semi-spread collars, especially the wide-spread collars which I see as affectations. Also, avoid the really short button-down collars that some designers seem to think are hip these days. Even Lands End has shortened the length of its collar points, and the ones they now sell look silly when worn with a tie. Stick to a straight collar for dressy occasions, and an OCBD when you want a more casual look and you’ll be fine. as for grammar and sentence structure in English, I’ll cut Raphael some slack since English is his second language.

  5. Bengal stripe is not mentioned, although some of the blue shirts pictured appear to be Bengal stripe. Still an excellent and informative article.

    1. We mentioned striped, doesn’t have to be a bengal stripe as that is too bold for some.

    1. End on end is nice, I have them and I do have a linen shirt, but they are not my first 10 must have shirts. Of course, everyone is different in their needs and preferences.

  6. Dear Mr. Schneider and readers of the Gentleman’s Gazette,

    Could you please help me with a few questions I have? I did not mean to post these questions
    in response to an article that does not directly relate to them, but this way currently appears
    ideal for attracting help about the matter.

    The questions relate to general wardrobe care. I have never had an issue with moths because
    I always take great care of my wardrobe and keep everything perfectly clean, but I would like
    to employ some means of moth infestation prevention. I was just reading the Gentleman’s Gazette
    article titled “How To Store Clothes” from 2011, and Mr. Schneider wrote there that adding a little
    bottle of cedar oil to the closet can be used to achieve infestation prevention. Could somebody
    please give me a few more details on how to use a cedar oil bottle for this purpose? I currently
    have four questions in mind:

    1. Is it sufficient to merely remove the lid of the cedar oil bottle and to put the bottle inside the
    closet, or do I also need to do anything else? This question sounds elementary, but I would
    rather be safe than sorry.

    2. Could somebody please recommend cedar oil products that would be ideal for this situation?
    It would be highly appreciated if the products are available on Amazon.

    3. Is one bottle of cedar oil enough regardless of the closet’s size?

    4. Will it ever be necessary to replace the cedar oil or maintain it in any way?

    I will welcome any information you can provide on the matter, as well as any advice you may
    have on what steps I can take from here.

    On a note to Mr. Schneider, thank you very much for this article. This article and the recent
    article on underrated and overrated dress shirts have greatly helped shape my understanding
    of how an elegant and classic dress shirt should look.

    I thank you all for your time, and I wish you a pleasant day.

    Yours sincerely,
    William L.

  7. Great article! The only thing that I don’t agree with is the soft washed denim shirt. It’s not for everyone and it can’t be dressed up. Instead, I would say to get a pastel shirt of your favorite color, for example a pastel green, pink or orange. A shirt of these colors can be both casual and formal and it’s always good to wear your favorite color.

    Best regards

  8. To me, a properly cut shirt is very important, however, if i have to spend top dollars, I raher do it for a superb linen shirt, rather than a formal cotton shirt that spends its life undre a jacket.

    My prefrence goes to Giovanni Inglese, who cuts the most fantastic linen white shirts I have even seen: one does need to a small mortgage, but those shirts are the best money can buy.

  9. Everyone has their own formulas on what to wear. I stay away from white shirts as they make me look washed out. Pale colours and stripes work welll for me.

    Great article!

  10. I love the plethora of white and off white shirts. They go with anything at anytime. I tend to buy shirts with the thinking that I will only wear them on their own and then they never work with my suits and ties well. The white shirt is definitely a staple. Thanks for the video. Very insightful!

  11. None of these are ‘dress’ shirts as we in Egland understand the term. They are merely everyday shirts of no consequence. Perhaps in America, where standards are lower, they might pass muster but not here, I assure you.

  12. My favorite white shirts must be suitable for tuxedo wear several times per month. As the first six of a shirt collection that fills a rolling store rack, they have a rib pattern and french cuffs with a medium collar and plastic point reinforcement. To be sure I have one ready for travel, I have one unopened. They do double duty with my banker’s suits. I also have pleated tux shirts for really black tie affairs. For summer wear, my sherbet colors w/out pocket are loved by the ladies combined with an off-white linen vest for my KEYone cell phone/organizer by Blackberry and fountain pen. As an Architect, for years the corporate daily dress was a black on white stripe (6 per inch) shirt, midnight blue blazer and stone khakis. Grey slacks were the local option as a ‘Cape Cod tuxedo.’ The plain white or black or college stripe tie went into the pocket when on Nantucket, except for a funeral. For Christmas, buy me a light blue oxford button-down shirt. So versatile and classic. Again, thanks for the quick refresher on shirts. Geoff

  13. These First 10 dress shirt idea are no doubt the most usefull and their concept are really useful in day to day life. Thank you so much for sharing this article. Keep up the good work.

  14. Mr. Schneider:

    So is that what I ask? I’m looking for a plain weave, white dress shirt, made from a medium-weight fabric? Most places I go seem to have no idea what fabric weight even means, or plain weave.

    I guess I need to improve on the stores I shop.

    Great information, though.

    Andy

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